Gervasutti Pillar

Gervasutti Pillar

Page Type Page Type: Route
Location Lat/Lon: 45.85834°N / 6.88791°E
Additional Information Route Type: Mountaineering
Additional Information Time Required: A long day
Additional Information Difficulty: TD+ (Vsup. and VI)
Additional Information Grade: VI
Sign the Climber's Log


First ascent: P. Fornelli and G. Mauro
Vertical height: 800m

Route overview:
The Gervasutti Pillar is located on the east face of the Mont Blanc du Tacul. There are a lot of pillars on this side, so prepare properly. The pillar is inbetween the Three Points Pillar (to the left) and the Boccolatte Pillar (to the right). On both sides there are couloirs, the left one (Supercouloir) is the most famous.

Climb up the pillar, follow some mixed ground and a small snowridge to the summit of the Mont Blanc du Tacul. From there descent the North East Face (normal route).

The pillar is named afther Giusto Gervasutti because he died descending in a storm trying to make the first ascent on 16 september 1946.

This is an outstanding route, a classic amongst classics.

Getting There

Starting point: Cosmiques hut or Torino hut

The Cosmiques hut is accessable from Chamonix. Just take the Telepherique, exit the snowcave and walk underneith the Aiguille du Midi towards the Mont Blanc du Tacul. The hut is to your right.

The Torino hut is even easier to reach. From Courmayeur (the Italien side) take the cablecar and go up. That's it.

Route Description

From a distance the route is pretty easy to follow as it follows the sharp crest of the pillar. Once on the pillar it's a bit more difficult, try to follow the easiest line possible. When you acces the top of the pillar you can either climb Tour Rouge on the right or descent a bit to the left, scramble up and finish via another small tower and some mixed terrain.

Start on the right side of the pillar for 2 pitches. From there the route goes a bit to the left. We encountered some rockfall on those first pitches since you are exposed. From there it gets better, the rocks will just fly over your head.

Essential Gear

All of the standard rock-gear. We used double 60m rope. Just bring a lot of slings, nuts and friends. All sizes, everything fits. One axe per person for the aproche and the descent.



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