Ghosts of the Past, 5.10-, 4 Pitches

Overview/Approach

This route was aptly named as it was originally established as a 5.8 run out route (running around looking for features and pro) that got straightened out with bolts straight up slab with several interesting features along the way.  Pitch one is steep and thoughtful but mostly positive.  Pitch two is the crux of the route featuring a water polished slab section in the middle of it which involved intricate moves at the grade.  Pitch three is steep.  Pitch four is the most varied by starting out with an exposed mantle up and left followed by slab climbing leading to a wide crack and then stemming right to a horizontal dike and up more minute slab features.  The true summit is a short scramble north. 

Approach as you would for “We Expect You”, these routes start just 30’ apart. Follow the Sheepshead trail to the base of Sheepshead.  Turn left and follow the normal Sheepshead descent trail as it gains the gully and starts to gain elevation.  Take the left-hand Y and hike below Muttonhead.  Stay on the tail as it loses ground and eventually gains a col that gives you the full view of Chaktar.  Follow the trail down and up over another short col and head for the center of the west face.  Beyond the obvious toe, below the west face of Chaktar, is the bolted first pitch of Ghosts just south of a left facing corner.

Route Description

1^st Pitch- 110’-5.9/ MP.com has it 5.9+, the local guide 5.8.  It is a 5.9 pitch.  Traverse in from the left and follow the bolts to an overhanging corner and traverse up and right out onto the face to a fixed rap.  All face climbing, we placed no gear.  9 bolts. 

2^nd Pitch- 180’-5.10-/ The crux pitch.   Rated 5.10- on MP.com and I concur. Slab climb below the grade until it gets steep and waterworn.  There is a #2 sized pocket that makes sense to place pro in. Left side of a water streak works for taller folks, right side is the better option if shorter.  I climbed the right side through intricate edges and sequencing skipping a bolt and mantling the dike above.  Continue up an easy left facing corner for a meter or two (#3) and then climb up and left following bolts to the right end of a ledge.   Traverse the ledge to the left to a fixed rap. 

3^rd Pitch- 100’-5.10-/ Climb up a small crack placing small pro and follow the bolts.  Make a wide stem rightward to the left facing corner.  Climb a short distance on it and trend up and left following the bolt line almost to the overhanging corner, but then head back up and right to a fixed rap on a small ledge. 

4^th Pitch- 135’-5.10-/ MP.com calls it 5.10a and I concur.  Make a cool exposed move up and left onto the dike.  Continue up two short sections of slab with easy ground in between.  Follow more easy ground up an obvious right facing corner/crack.  Place a #2 and look to traverse out right onto a dike with bolts heading up and through.  Climb some steep ground above to reach the fixed rap.

Climbing Sequence

Descent

Ignore the descent options listed on MP.com as of 2022, rather making four easy single 70m raps.  Rap from atop the route traveling climbers left of the route to locate a fixed rap about 100’ down.  Rap straight down another 100’ to another fixed rap.  Rap 110’ climbers right to a final fixed rap that raps to the ground just up from your packs. 

Essential Gear

70m rope.   Mix of 12 draws and slings.  Local guide talks about a rack to #4? This is a well bolted route.  There is a place for a #2 on pitches two and four.  There is one spot for a #3.  So two cams plus a set of wires and/or off-sets would suffice for the competent leader at the grade.  Route stays shaded longer than Sheepshead.  Faces true west.