Hermit Spire, Wide Eyed and Willing, II, 5,10d

Page Type
Route
Location:
California, United States, North America
Route Type:
Trad Climbing
Season:
Summer
Time Required:
Half a day
Difficulty:
Might have a bit of 5.11A
Rock Difficulty:
5.10d (YDS)
Number of Pitches:
9
Grade:
II

Route Quality: 2 Votes

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Hermit Spire, Wide Eyed and Willing, II, 5,10d
Created On: Dec 7, 2002
Last Edited On: Dec 24, 2012

Approach

Please see the detailed approach descriptions for "The Jazzing", another route on the Hermit Spire in Needles.

Route Description

About eight feet right of "A Pitch and Nine Takes Time" (page 37 and 38 of Greg Vernon's Needles Guide) is a thin crack which ends above a small roof 60 feet up.

Climb the crack to just above the small roof (10+). Traverse left onto the face (fixed pin) and climb up to a bolt. Continue up the face to an alcove and belay. Climb a short crack above the belay. Continue toward a large buttress/roof with a tree at its extreme left side. Belay above the tree. Climb the left side of the buttress for 10 feet. Make improbable traverse RIGHT, onto the buttress. Continue until reaching the gully on A Pitch And Nine Takes Time and belay. Cross the gully to the left and climb up to the base of the summit block. The climb is 8 or 9 pitches long.

This route was first climbed by Miguel Carmona and Alois Smrz in August of 1991.

Essential Gear

Set of SLCDs, Set of wires, three small TCUs, slings.

Miscellaneous Info

If you have information about this route that doesn't pertain to any of the other sections, please add it here.