Hermit Spire, Wide Eyed and Willing, II, 5,10d

Hermit Spire, Wide Eyed and Willing, II, 5,10d

Page Type Page Type: Route
Location Lat/Lon: 36.10920°N / 118.484°W
Additional Information Route Type: Trad Climbing
Seasons Season: Summer
Additional Information Time Required: Half a day
Additional Information Difficulty: Might have a bit of 5.11A
Additional Information Rock Difficulty: 5.10d (YDS)
Additional Information Number of Pitches: 9
Additional Information Grade: II
Sign the Climber's Log


Please see the detailed approach descriptions for "The Jazzing", another route on the Hermit Spire in Needles.

Route Description

About eight feet right of "A Pitch and Nine Takes Time" (page 37 and 38 of Greg Vernon's Needles Guide) is a thin crack which ends above a small roof 60 feet up.

Climb the crack to just above the small roof (10+). Traverse left onto the face (fixed pin) and climb up to a bolt. Continue up the face to an alcove and belay. Climb a short crack above the belay. Continue toward a large buttress/roof with a tree at its extreme left side. Belay above the tree. Climb the left side of the buttress for 10 feet. Make improbable traverse RIGHT, onto the buttress. Continue until reaching the gully on A Pitch And Nine Takes Time and belay. Cross the gully to the left and climb up to the base of the summit block. The climb is 8 or 9 pitches long.

This route was first climbed by Miguel Carmona and Alois Smrz in August of 1991.

Essential Gear

Set of SLCDs, Set of wires, three small TCUs, slings.

Miscellaneous Info

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