White Punks on Dope

Page Type
Route
Location:
California, United States, North America
Route Type:
Technical rock climb
Time Required:
Most of a day
Difficulty:
5.8+

Route Quality: 11 Votes

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Page By:
Rob
White Punks on Dope
Created On: Feb 7, 2005
Last Edited On: May 12, 2005

Route Description


WPOD is described as being a "Sierra classic" in the last Needles guidebook, and in another old guidebook it's revered as "...the finest moderate route in Southern California". Lets just say, it's a must do! The route covers some interesting features on excellent rock and offers diverse climbing challenges, and though rated only 5.8+, you'll have a hard time leading if your not solid at that level.


P1- The climb starts up a crack in a left facing dihedral. Climb the crack for 190' to a belay below an overhang. 5.7 Note: some topos say belay in the crack further down below the overhang, which would be the end of the rope if you use a 50 meter, but there is no good stance and the anchor options are not the best, therefore most parties go up and belay just below the overhang. If using a 50 meter rope, the second can simul-climb a ways, since the first 30' is easy.
Pitch 2- Turn the overhang and go up to a nice ledge formed by a large chockstone and belay there. 60' 5.8+
Pitch 3- Go up and through a deep chasm, chimney up at the end and belay on the big ledge at the start of the corner pitch. 5.7
Pitch 4- Jam and lieback up the corner. Bring your big cam for the last section. Belay on the big ledge at top of the corner, (small nuts and cams, ¼ - 2 " for the anchor) 165' 5.8+
Pitch 5- Face climb up the slab, tending to the right, passing four bolts. Belay on the big ledge. 5.8 There used to be a big tree here, but now there's just a stump.
Pitch 6- Climb the splitter 1" finger crack to the top.

Descent:
Walk across the summit and hike down the Warlock / Voodoo gully.

It is possible to rappel with 2 ropes (4 raps I think), from the top of pitch 5 using bolted anchors leading down to the start of "Dihedral grope 5.9", from there it's a short scramble back to the start of WPOD.


First ascent: Todd Burrell, Richard Leversee, E.C. Joe, Scott Edmiaston. May 1976


The route climbs the left side of the dome. The last pitch goes up just left of the tree near the top.

Approach


This route is on the south face of Voodoo Dome. From Johnsondale, take Lloyd Meadow Road (22S82) 13.5 miles to where the road crosses Needlerock creek, park in the large pullout on the right side. The hard to spot trailhead is on the left side a couple hundred yards up the road from the pullout, (look for a cairn on a stump). Follow the trail and head up towards the left side of the dome.

Some parties approach from the upper Needles, hiking down along the ridge past the Warlock Needle and going down the gully to the start.

Essential Gear


Standard Trad rack.
Cams to 4" (one 5" piece, optional).
Doubles useful on all sizes up to 4"

1 set stoppers. (nuts)

60 meter rope.


Miscellaneous Info


If you have information about this route that doesn't pertain to any of the other sections, please add it here.