Hermit Spire, "Water from the Moon",II, 5.10d

Hermit Spire, "Water from the Moon",II, 5.10d

Page Type: Route
Lat/Lon: 36.10920°N / 118.484°W
Route Type: Trad Climbing
Time Required: Half a day
Difficulty: Sustained at 5.10
Rock Difficulty: 5.10d (YDS)
Number of Pitches: 8
Grade: II


For approach, please see detailed description for "JAZZING", which is another route on the NEEDLES page.

Route Description

For the routes on the east face, descend on the extreme left (looking down or south) side of the rock. Do not bushwack through manzanita bushes; stay on the rocks (3rd class!)When traversing west along the base of the spire, stay as close to the rocks as possible.

Looking at the East Face to the right of the Falcon and Snowman cracks, there is a large roof splitting the face in mid height. "Water from the Moon" climbs up toward the roof, and above it goes all the way to the summit on sustained, 5.10 climbing.

The route was first climbed by Miguel Carmona and Alois Smrz in August 1988.

Pitch 1- Start at the "Snowman" crack, the right of the two cracks splitting the East Face. Follow 5.8 buckets up and right to a ledge below a smooth face. Pitch 2- 7 bolts protect 5.10+ climbing up the face and right over small overhang. Pitch 3 Continue up toward the roof, belay at it's base(10A). Pitch 4- follow the right edge of the roof (2 bolts, 5.10B), surmount the roof (10a), climb the finger crack above it. Pitch 5-continue up toward the large ledge below the final tower(5.9). Pitch 6-Climb up a steep face (bolt, 10A), reach the shoulder of the spire. Pitch 7-Walk toward the summit tower and climb the steep, 5.10B fist crack and depression at the front of the tower. This soon gets you to the top.

Downclimb the NorthEast side of the formation on easy 5th friction or use the two bolts Mark Robinson added in the early 90s for the rap to the shoulder.

This is a high quality route, (IMO) one of the best climbs Miguel and I have ever done.

Essential Gear

3 single slings, Quick Draws, 2 sets of RPs or equivalent, set of wires, Friends to #2, double up on 1 1/2 and 2. If you do the the summit tower "direct pitch" via the 10b fist crack, bring #3 and #4 Friends or equiv.

Miscellaneous Info

If you have information about this route that doesn't pertain to any of the other sections, please add it here.