Hesitation

Page Type
Route
Location:
California, United States, North America
Route Type:
Trad Climbing
Season:
Spring, Summer, Fall
Time Required:
Less than two hours
Difficulty:
moderate
Rock Difficulty:
5.10a (YDS)
Number of Pitches:
3
Grade:
I

Route Quality: 2 Votes

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Page By:
Hesitation
Created On: Jan 26, 2004
Last Edited On: Dec 22, 2006

Approach

Hesitation is found on the Main Sunshine Face wall, which faces southeast. From end of entry climbers' trail, you'll find yourself at the right side of Buttress of Cracks. Keep to the left along the base of the rock and scramble uphill to Sunshine Face. Look for routes to the right of Paisano Chimney.
Hesitation can be started from any of the routes ending on No Go Ledge just to the left of Insomnia, or from 5.8 chimney moves at start of Insomnia to same ledge.

Route Description

From No Go Ledge, at a bolted anchor, continue up line of bolts to far right for 10d variation. Tough stuff with through 4 bolts to ramp for true start of Hesitation.
You can rappel 165' from bolted anchor or continue on second true pitch of Hesitation, and it's well worth the effort. Beautifully textured face with mixture of bolts, chicken heads and thin cracks for another 100' to Paisano Ledge. The 10a crux is found midway on this pitch.
Two rappels will get you to the deck.

Essential Gear

Pro to 2".
Runners to reduce drag and on final pitch for slinging chicken heads.
Small TCU's for crack just below top anchor.
Two ropes strongly recommended for rappels to deck.







Hesitation

Route
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