Mutterberger Seespitze

Page Type
Austria, Europe
Mountaineering, Scrambling, Skiing
10833 ft / 3302 m
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Mutterberger Seespitze
Created On: Jun 22, 2007
Last Edited On: Jun 24, 2007


Mutterberger Seespitze is one of many peaks in the central Stubai Alps, neither high, nor extremely difficult. But it is a worthwhile ski tour in winter, starting from Amberger Hut in Sulztal.

Glaciers and snow on the north side, steep rocky walls from south. Having climbed the peak, you can see all the prominent peaks of Stubai - from Schrankogel with its steep North-East face, over the the impressive Schwarzenbergspitze to Zuckerhüttl. Being high over Stubaital, there are also the glacier ski areas before your eyes.

The ski tour is directly opposite to Schrankogel. Interesting steep passages in the gully and the final slope. You are going to explore and navigate - unlike on Schrankogel, you will be alone here. Good snow through its north orientation, even when it's too warm for most peaks here (the name Sulztal stands for deep wet snow).
Panorama of Mutterberger Spitze from Schrankogel

Getting There

See the Stubai Alps homepage for general overview, mountain conditions and accomodation. Mutterberger Seespitze can be reached from North-West from Sulztal. Your starting point is the village Gries in Ötztal.

Routes overview

There is not much to choose from. No marked trails lead to the summit.

1. Ski tour over Bockkogelferner. Starting from Amberger hut, after crossing the upper Sulztal head to the East (as the route to Schrankogel goes). After the steep step a flat passage follows. Here starts a steep gully to South-West, leading to Bockkogelferner. Traverse it low, around the NW-ridge, and ascend the NW-face of Mutterberger Seespitze to a saddle. Now on the ridge (exposed, cornices) to the summit. From Amberger hut 4h.

2. SW-ridge. Rock up to 3 UIAA. Starts from Mutterberger Joch. 2h

3. NW-ridge. Rock up to 3 UIAA.
Sulztal from Amberger Hut

Red Tape

No restrictions. A big parking lot with no parking fees in Gries in Ötztal.
Ridge of Mutterberger Seespitze

Best time

Best time is spring with stable snow conditions, when crevasses on Bockkogelferner are covered by a thick layer of snow. Beware of too much snow, a two big avalanches came down the route in 2006 and buried some people (check the signature photo for avalanche size).