Page Type Page Type: Mountain/Rock
Location Lat/Lon: 47.05440°N / 11.11120°E
Additional Information Elevation: 11131 ft / 3393 m
Sign the Climber's Log


The 8th highest mountain in the Stubai mountain range. It is a mountain with no easy ascent, the easiest one (normal route) is UIAA grade I. All ascents are partly glacial routes. To my feeling it is only seldomly climbed.

Getting There

The mountain is usually approached from either the Amberger Hütte or the Franz-Senn-Hütte.

Via the Amberger Hütte:
Start in the Sulztal (goes from the Ötztal) to the Amberger Hütte (2 h). From there towards the Schwarzenbergferner. Via the south ridge towarts the summit.

Via the Franz-Senn-Hütte:
Start in the Oberbergtal (goes from the Stubaital) to the Franz-Senn-Hütte (1 h). From there towards the Alpeiner Ferner over the Wildgratscharte to the Schwarzenbergferner. Then as described above.

The normal route (UIAA grade I) is not marked (1 h) and goes along the south ridge.
Further routes are the east ridge (II) and the north ridge (III) - both from the Franz-Senn-Hütte.

When To Climb

Summer: June - October
Winter: March - April (Ski ascent - please note: skis can be used usually only for the approach - scrambling is essential)

Guides and Maps

The recommended guide is the "Alpenvereinsführer" "Stubaier Alpen" by Walter Klier (Bergverlag Rother, 2002)
ISBN: 3-7633-1271-4 (Description)

A detailed map is available from the Alpenverein (Stubaier Alpen - Hochstubai - 31/1 1: 25000)
This map is available with or without routes for ski mountaineering (Description).

A good map is sold by freytag & berndt (Innsbruck, Stubai - Seelrain, Brenner 1:50000, WK241).

Huts in the Vicinity

General Information on huts is given in Jo's Hüttenliste

Amberger Hütte: 2135 m, Tel.: +(A) 05253 / 5605 (open end of Feb. - 15. May and beginn of July - 15. Sept.)
They have a homepage: Amberger Hütte

Franz-Senn-Hütte: 2147 m, Tel.: +(A) 05226 / 2500 and 05226 / 2218 (Mid Feb. - Mid May and Mid June - Beginning of October)
They have a homepage: Franz-Senn-Hütte

Mountain Conditions

Mountain conditions are available from the huts in the vicinity.

Winter climbing: Propability of avalanges can been found here: Lawinenwarndienst - Österreich

Information of alpine weather is found here: Wetter

Red Tape

No fees, no closures.


The whole area is a "Naturschutzgebiet " (similar to a national park) which prohibits camping, possibly bivouaking is allowed (at least tolerated). Sleeping is of course possible in the surrounding huts.
Camping is possible in Volderau (some kilometers from Neustift in the Stubaital)and in the Ötztal in Längenfeld (30 km from Vent) (Homepage)
Further camping sites might be in Sölden (15 km from Vent) and Huben (20 km from Vent) in the Ötztal.

Additions and CorrectionsPost an Addition or Correction

Viewing: 1-1 of 1
tuan walter

tuan walter - Apr 17, 2006 2:57 pm - Voted 8/10

Stein & Schnee - Datenbank für alpinistische Routen

Description of the normal route (south ridge) - in German + photos

Viewing: 1-1 of 1



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Alpeiner BergeMountains & Rocks