The Good, the Great, and the Awesome: The Top 40 High Sierra Rock Climbs

 

Product Description

• Author: Peter Croft


• Publisher: Maximus Press


• Publisher website: http://maximuspress.com


• ISBN: 0-9676116-4-4


• Edition: first (2003)


• Format: paperback

Overview

Advantages

• Written by one of the most amazing and experienced High Sierra climbers (e.g. sub-24 hour tour of Evolution Traverse)


• Routes range from Class 2 to 5.11a and grades II-VI with the bulk of the book focused on grade III-IV moderates.


• Topos


• An entertaining read with history and humorous Croftesque tidbits


• Amenities listed for each of the E Sierra towns


• YDS rating and gear list in overview for each climb


• Mileage breakdown includes terrain type (e.g. cross-country v. trail)

Disadvantages

• Route descriptions may be a bit light on detail for some


• No color photos inside

Biased Opinion
This is a must have book for any E Sierra alpine climber. It lists some of the finest routes in my all-time favorite climbing location.

The Routes

Grade VI

• Palisade Traverse, 5.9**


• Evolution Traverse, 5.9***


• Minaret Traverse, 5.9***


• Sawtooth Traverse, 5.8*

Grade V

• Palisades (Temple Crag/Gayley/Sill), rating depends on route ***


• Dark Star on Temple Crag, 5.10c**


• Keeler Needle on Whitney, 5.10c*


• Positive Vibrations on the Incredible Hulk, 5.11a***


• SW Face of Conness, 5.10c**

Grade IV

• Sun Ribbon Arete on Temple Crag, 5.10a**


• Palisades (T-bolt to Sill), 5.9***


• Red Dihedral (aka Ygdrasil)on the Incredible Hulk, 5.10c***


• SW Face of Clyde Minaret, 5.8*


• Moon Goddess Arete on Temple Crag, 5.8*


• Venusian Blind on Temple Crag, 5.7***


• Matthes Crest, 5.7***


• Western Front on Russell, 5.10c**


• W Ridge of Conness, 5.6***


• Cathedral Traverse, 5.6*


• E Face Direct of Outguard Spire, 5.10d*

Grade III

• Mithral Dihedral on Russell, 5.10a**


• Fishhook Arete on Russell, 5.8**


• N Buttress on Goode, 5.9*


• S Face of Charlotte Dome, 5.8***


• Regular Route on Third Pillar of Dana, 5.10a**


• NE Gully of Laurel, 5.2**


• E Face of Whitney, 5.7***


• E Buttress of Whitney, 5.7***


• N Ridge of Lone Pine Peak, 5.5**


• N Arete on Bear Creek Spire, 5.8*


• E Arete on Humphreys, 5.5*


• N Ridge of Conness, 5.6**


• NE Ridge on Bear Creek Spire, Cl 4***


• SE Buttress of Cathedral, 5.7***


• E Face of Middle Palisade, Cl 3***


• E Chute of Basin, Cl 4*

Grade II

• Swiss Arete on Sill, 5.7***


• E Arete on Russell, Cl 3***


• N Arete of Crystal Crag, 5.7**


• NW Slope of Agassiz, Cl 2**

Images