In memory of Tine Mihelic
This page is dedicated to Tine Mihelic one of the greatest alpinist and mountaineer of Slovenia who died when he was climbing the ridge Bovski Gamsovec – Pihavec. He died on the second of October 2004. He was found after four days searching action.
Tine Mihelic was born the twentieth of May 1941 and was the great climber, author of many books (specially of Julian Alps group, climbing books about Dolomites), mountainous publicist…
He climbed all over the world. He climbed many climbing routes in Julian Alps, Dolomites, Paklenica, and in the Andes (Cordillera Blanca, Cordillera Real). Many of them are paramount. If we count all his climbing ascends we come to the number around 1000.
He was the great man. Rest in peace!
Geographical structure: Eastern Alps
> Julian Alps
> Razor and Prisojnik group
Beautiful south slopes of Pihavec from route to Luknja pass.
and Bovški Gamsovec
are the last mountains in Razor and Prisojnik group before Luknja pass
, 1758m, and start of Plemenice ridge (NW ridge of Triglav). Pihavec is situated above Kriski Podi plateau
where are three small lakes. On the plateau stands the Pogacnikov hut
Pihavec is the mountain, which has the most powerful view from Trenta valley
(from the small second valley Zadnjica
). The position of Pihavec is very good because it is in the middle of the highest mountains in Julian Alps. From the famous Triglav North face is Pihavec faraway only around one kilometer.
On the S
side Pihavec falls very steeply down to the Zadnjica valley. In the S
way has nice grass ridge where is a small peak Mali Pihavec
, 2185m. On the SE
side Pihavec has some steep grassy slopes to the Luknja pass. On the NE
side is connected with Bovski Gamsovec, 2392m with wild and hardly climbed ridge. On this ridge is another unimportant peak called Vrh nad Kamnom
, 2365m. On the N
side and NW
side has small north face only around 300 meters high, which falls down on screes. These screes are part of Kriski Podi (the plateau).
On Pihavec you can come from more sides. The normal route goes over north face from Kriski Podi plateau. This is the only marked route
on the summit and it is secured on some place. The other approaches to the summit are some climbing route in the north face and some easy approaches over south slopes from Luknja pass. Very interesting climbing route is the ridge between Pihavec and Bovski Gamsovec but it is hard climbing route!
The detailed map. Red spots are summits, posted on SP. You can see where Golicica is.
The heart of the region is Kranjska Gora
resort town, 84 kilometers from the Slovenian capital Ljubljana
. Starting point for Pihavec is Trenta valley (Zadnjica valley) or Vrata valley (the main valley below the Triglav). For more details about getting in Vrata valley see the summipost side ofTriglav
and the section Vrata valley routes.
If you want to reach Ljubljana by plane check a timetable on the site of Adria Airways
, a national airline.
From Ljubljana buses depart towards Kranjska Gora every 60 minutes.
From Ljubljana trains depart in Kranjska Gora direction quite often but only up to Jesenice town. There you have to change to bus, which come from Ljubljana anyway.
From Ljubljana 84km.
From central Europe via Villach, Austria: Via Karavanke tunnel (around 40km) or Korensko Sedlo pass (around 30km).
From western Europe via Udine, Italy: exit Udine – Villach highway in Tarvisio. Tarvisio – Kranjska Gora 20km.
Julijske Alpe - Zahodni del. Planinska zveza Slovenije. 1:50000
Tabacco: Alpi Giulie Occidentali Tarvisiano. No: 019. 1:25000
The normal marked route on Pihavec goes from Pogacnikov dom (hut) over Kriski Podi plateau and then over the small north face. The description of the route you can find here
There are also some other approaches which are not so well-known. This are unmarked approaches and some climbing routes.
SW ridge from Pl. Zajavor, 1479m. Easy climbing and steep grassy ridge.
SE slopes from Luknja pass. Easy climbing and some steep grassy slopes.
Around Pihavec. The route goes around the SE, S, SW and W slopes of Pihavec. It starts on Luknja pass and ends on Pogacnikov dom (hut). Some easy climbing parts. You must be good tracker.
Pihavec - Bovski Gamsovec ridge. UIAA III-IV.
An Alpine chamois. You can find here many of them.
No limitations but Pihavec is located in the Triglavski Narodni park
so you must be kind to the nature and other beauties.
When To Climb
The best time for climbing on Pihavec is Spring (be careful on some snowfields below the north face), not very hot days of Summer and Autumn.
There are only two huts:
POGACNIKOV DOM NA KRISKIH PODIH
hut (2050m) is standing on the edge of Kriski Podi basin, high above the Trenta valley. Kriski Podi are bare rock basin, which is ascending in few steps. At the foothills of those steps lie 3 beautiful alpine lakes: lower, middle and upper Krisko jezero lakes. Area is surrounded from 3 sides by peak. Highest of them is Razor (2601m). The hut was opened in 1951 and named after a Joze Pogacnik whose idea was to build a hut here. Unfortunately he died on the way from Trenta valley to hut opening ceremony. In 1985, near the hut, load aerial ropeway and winter room were built. The hut is open from July 1st till the end of September. It has 67 beds + 16 in winter room, water and electricity from a generator. View from the hut is beautiful towards Trenta valley and Soca River, which shines on the afternoon sun and the wild peaks around.
hut (1015m) is placed in Vrata valley. It is accessible by car, 12km from Mojstrana village, which lies on the main road from Ljubljana to Kranjska Gora resort. It was opened in 1896. In 1909. the hut was destroyed by avalanche. New hut was opened the next year where it stands today. It has 150 beds and is open from beginning of May till the end of October. Winter room has 8 beds. From the hut view is beautiful on the peaks around the valley, which rise wildly above it and especially on Triglav and its North face.
Camping inside the Triglav National Park is forbidden. Beside the mountain huts there are plenty of hotels and private apartments in the towns and villages, which surround the area. Here are few links where you can find info on accommodations closer and further away:
Mountain conditions in Julian Alps are well known, thanks to Kredarica (2515m) hut and meteo station, which is below the Triglav.
You can observe current conditions and forecast for Kredarica on the Wunderground meteo site. Here is direct link to Wunderground - Kredarica
Some weather informatin can also be found here