OverviewNOTE: This is not Tajik‘s 7105 m high Peak Korjenevskoy!
Pik Korzhenevskovo is the significant six-thousand meters high summit in the border range Kyrgyzstan-Tajikistan. The range starts at pass Kyzyl-Art (4336 m) with the route M41 from Sary-Tash to Karakol lake, and rises up many peaks over 5000 m to reach 6000 m at the summit of Pik Beleckovo (6070 m). The border range continues via Pik Korzenevskovo (6008) to Kyzylagyn (6684 m) and followingly to the area of Pik Lenina
The glaciated summit has steeper north wall composed of glacier, seracs, crevasses and rocks. The north wall continues with crevasses field of Nazarova glacier and changes in gently glacier covered with stone moraine. Two rivers began at this glacier, the one situated on the right is clean and suitabel for drinking.
The area of Dzanajdartaka river, which Nazarova rivers and valley enters, and surrounding peaks are completely out of focus of climbers and trekkers. In comparison with hundreds of climbers and trekkers in the Pik Lenina
area you do not find a human here. The reason is simple, just several tens of kilometres to the west is located Pik Lenin
. Thus, as Pik Lenina is over 7000 m, none is interested in peaks between 6000 and 6684 meters lying nearby. There are many peaks, most of them believed unclimbed, that are suitable for routes of different grade.
The wide valley of Dzanajdartaka river is fullfilled with stones transported to the lower parts by the river during the spring months. However, similar to Pik Lenina Lukova poljana (Onion field) a lot of onion and incredible amount of types of mountain flowers can be found here.
Kyrgyzstan can be simple reached from many European airports with companies like Russians Aeroflot (via Moscow) and Air Pulkovo (via St. Peterburg), KLM, British Airways (from London), Kyrgyz airlines (from Munchen directly to Bishkek), Turkish Airlines (via Istanbul), and other.
When leaving the Manas airport
back to your home country do not be surprised, that for several companies the „leaving cost“ USD 10 is included in the price of air ticket, but for many others you have to pay this fee before registration to flight. Be also very careful with the weight of your luggage, as clerks weigh ALL YOUR luggage at once!
And you have to pay at least USD 8 per kilogram exceeding over 20 kilograms.
From Bishkek you can use domestic airlines – Kyrgyz airlines
or Altyn Air
to fly from Bishkek to Osh. It takes about 50 minutes by Jak-40 jet plane. Prices for 2005 season are:
Kyrgyz airlines return ticket USD 80, one way ticket USD 60
Altyn airlines return ticket approximately USD 100
Tickets are available in advance by your order realized through the local travel agency or just after your arrive at Manas airport. Only for cheaper Kyrgyz airlines tickets can be sold out for the first flights.
Another possibility is bus or taxi for about 800 kilometres long route to the second biggest city Osh. Asking for a taxi is the simplest at Osh bazaar in Bishkek.
From Osh use any of travel agency transport support or ask for a „taxi“ UAZ, gazik (Russian version of a jeep). In fact, you can also use any of robust cars like the famous Soviet car Volha, because the above mentioned are able to win over the dirty road from Osh via the city Gulcha over the passes Cidcik (2400 m) and Taldyk (3615 m).
However, you can also use a local bus Osh – Sary-Tash and then take a car for Bardobo border control. Or you can simple hitchike after leaving Osh.
Except of 28 countries citizens of all other countries need a valid Kyrgzyz visa to enter the country. They are easily obtained at your local Kyrgyz Embassy for about USD 45 per person. Sometimes you need a letter of invitation by Kyrgyz travel agency to get visas. The letter can be easily obtained by several travel agencies in Bishkek ans Osh, some of them are mentioned LOWER. Moreover, citizens of over twenty countries are also free from OVIR (police department of foreign affairs) registration in Osh and border zone permit (both cost for about USD 20 per person). The border control is at Bardobo.
There are NO CLIMBING OR TREKKING permits in Kyrgyzstan since the beginning of season 2003. The situation can be changed for next year, but now you do not have to pay any money for climbs or treks!
Osh and south Kyrgyzstan
No. 1, Say Kucha str, Osh, Republic of Kyrgizstan
tel/fax: +996(3222) 551 74
Bishkek and around
No. 65, Sovetskaya str., 720005 Bishkek, Republic of Kyrgizstan
tel.: +996 (312) 54 42 77
fax: +996 (312) 54 42 19
When To Climb & Weather
The mountain is climbable during all the year . However, the best weather conditions are from mid July to mid August. Possibility of heavy avalanches is increasing during the winter and spring as the steepness of the slopes is high. However, the winter months are very cold – the same like around Pik Lenina. Spring months can be really interesting, as there remains snow cover and access from the M41 route from Bardobo border control can be very easy.
The weather can be pretty unstable all over the year. According to our experience in summer 2005, there was majority of days with sunshine in the early morning. Around 10 a.m. clouds and fog appeared, and in the afternoon rain and storms continued. Finally, in the evening clear heaven covered with stars appeared. Snow storms caused about 40 cm thick snow cover in the valley and many avalanches of different size on slopes.
Mountain ConditionsFirst ascent: unknown, probably first climb in USSR time around 1950 by Soviet alpinists. However, we did not suceed in summer 2005, first climbs on feet or with skis wait for foreigners. If you know something about possible first ascends feel free to add it!
UPDATE ABOUT FIRST CLIMBS!!! SP member Rybakov have declared, that this peak is NOT UNCLIMBED! Hopefully, he will be able to add details about first climbs and traverses via this peak as soon as possible.
Earth Observatory - Kara-Kul Structure - satellite photo of the Kara-Kul lake and its surrounds. The valley of Dzanajdartaka river is on the left upper corner.
Possible right route via Pik BMF (5842 m).
Pik Korzenevskovo is of a higher grade of climbs. The north wall is covered with a very steep noncompact glacier with high level of danger. According to our propose, the safe routes from the north are only through the side ranges. The best one seems to be so-called right route: climb via the couloir to one of the pass in the range from Pik Nazarova (5015 m) to Peak BMF (5842 m) that lies in the main range. From conveniently chosen pass with the last camp the route continues with steep north slope of Peak BMF to its summit. The rest is a nice high altitude walk to Pik Korzenevskovo main summit. Descent on the same route.
Possible left route to the main range. It starts at Pass Nazarova (4600 m).
You can camp anywhere in the area. The only trouble is the lack of clean water for cooking and drinking. All streams starting on north sides of the range are polluted by sediments and they are brown. Higher in the valley you can find remains after old camps. One of the highest concentrations of old rusty cans we found at the beginning of Nazarova glacier moraines. The camp was set up in the summer 1989 by a team of Soviet geologists measuring data for geological map of this area in the scale 1:50 000.
Please, do not leave any „marks“ after your staying here, let your camping site as clean as possible and take all your rubbish with you in lowland.