Pizzo Suretta (Surettahorn)

Page Type
Sondrio (I) - canton Grigioni (CH), Italy/Switzerland, Europe
Mountaineering, Skiing
Spring, Summer
9931 ft / 3027 m
9375 Hits
81.18% Score
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Page By:
Pizzo Suretta (Surettahorn)
Created On: Mar 31, 2004
Last Edited On: Aug 26, 2008


The finest (even if not the highest) mountain of the Valle Spluga
It looks like a circus rocky ridge that contains two glaciers on its south and north sides.

Very popoular mountain, often climbed both from italian and swiss sides, not difficult but not banal to climb, its summit ridge crossing is the finest way to spend a day here.
It has four summits, from west : Punta Nera 3027m - Punta Rossa 3015m - Punta Bianca and Punta Adami 2987m.
On its western side the ridge goes on with some high rocky towers Cime Cadenti (2989-3021m) with steep walls and channels.
On the eastern side, after the saddle under the Punta Adami, another very fine little chain : the Pinirocolo (piz Por - 3028m)
On its northern side the ridge come down with a long ridge, ending with Mittaghorn

Getting There

starting from Milan (Italy) by car :
- route 36 to Colico, than Chiavenna, Campodolcino, Madesimo, Montespluga and Splügen Pass (2113m)
- autoroute Milano-Como-Lugano-Bellinzona-S.Bernardino (tunnel)-Splügen and Splügen Pass (2113m)

starting from Chur (CH)
- autoroute of S.Bernardino till Splügen then, on the left to Spluga pass

The starting points are Montespluga, Splügen Pass and Schwarzwalalp

Routes overview

rope and iceaxe always useful !

starting from Montespluga :
  • cross of the main ridge - the finest (F sup-PD) - from little under the Surettapass (2580m) to the Punta Adami and crossing the ridge till Punta Nera - coming down is to south (on the slopes bringing to Punta Adami there is a fixed useless bivouac)
  • South side of Punta Nera - (F) - useful for coming down but amusing even for going up
  • South side and Eastern ridge - (F sup) - from south to the saddle between Punta Rossa and Punta Nera
  • South side and SW ridge - (F sup) - to the saddle between Cime Cadenti and Punta Nera
  • South channel to Punta Rossa - (PD) warning ... instable rocks

    starting from Passo Spluga :
  • Western side and North ridge - (F sup) - fine and wild

    starting from Splügen :
  • North-western slopes and North ridge - the finest ski-mountaneering route

    starting from Schwarzwalalp :
  • no obligatory way - the main ridge can be reached in many different and no difficult ways - this wild and forgotten valley is very moody but takes a long time to be wandered :)

    Crossing of the Cime Cadenti can be a not easy and not always safe climbing ... only for skilled climbers !

    ski mountaneering info

  • When To Climb

    almost all year long (dicember and january not always are good)
    wonderful ski-mountaneering in late winter and spring
    amusing easy climbs in summer
    moody ambient in fall


    no need,
    this summit can be climbed in one day trip from the north-western area of Lombardia (I) or Canton Ticino (CH).
    Some little hotel in Montespluga allows early morning starts for ski-mountanering.

    Red Tape

    Switzerland is out of Schengen, you need identity document

    Pizzo Suretta (Surettahorn)

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