|A very smart mountain, sorrounded by two glaciers on northern and western side, with a important wall on its south side.|
Together with Pizzo Suretta is the finest summit of the Valle Spluga
Amusing easy climbs in summer and wonderful ski-mountaneering in late winter and spring : the finest (I think) in the whole area.
|starting from Milano (Italy) by car : |
- route 36 to Colico, than Chiavenna, Campodolcino, Isola, Stuetta, Montespluga
- autoroute Milano-Como-Lugano-Bellinzona-S.Bernardino (tunnel)-Splügen-Splügen Pass (2113m)-Montespluga-Stuetta
starting from Chur (CH)
- autoroute of S.Bernardino till Splügen then, on the left to Splügen Pass (2113m)-Montespluga-Stuetta
The usual starting points are Montespluga and Stuetta (parking near the dike of Montespluga lake.
A long long walk allows to reach the mountain even from S.Bernardino (1603m) through the Bocchetta di Curciusa (2420m)
|rope and iceaxe always useful|
NW ridge - normal route fine, amusing, not banal (PD), this route crosses the northern glacier to get the saddle (on the right of the summit)
the ridge requires easy climb that can give some little problems when iced.
To get the glacier two different routes :
- from Montespluga (1900m) following the Val Loga till Valloga pass (bivacco Cecchini here) and crossing under the Cime di Val Loga ridges
This is also the ski-mountaneering route
- from Stuetta (1861m) following the path that crosses the dike and going on through Val Schisarolo till the mouth of the glacier, that can be passed over using some rock channels on the right side (west)
This is the best and fastest route in summer.
The saddle of this ridge can be reached from west - through the Val Curciusa crossing the western glacier.
North wall short but amusing climb (PD sup) - very fine in spring as ending part of the ski-mountaneering (can be done even for coming down)
NE channel and East ridge - tiring but fine route (PD sup) - from Vamlera (1860m) through the Val d'Oro, using the path coming from Stuetta (or the one coming from Isola - 1283m - but this way is much longer and tiring)
South wall 2 routes here, both not easy and almost unknown (pehaps never repeated)
SW ridge the finest (PD) but very long as it requires to climb the Pizzi dei Piani (3149-3158m) and the ridge cross.
Better do in the opposite direction (Pizzo Ferrè-Pizzi dei Piani) descending to Passo Baldiscio (2350m)
ski mountaneering info
|almost all year long (dicember and january not always are good) |
beware of bad weather : storms, lightnings and fog can create some problems here
(this mountain is not so low and its northern glacier has some big crevasses)
|no need, |
this summit can be climbed in one day trip from the north-western area of Lombardia (I) or Canton Ticino (CH).
Some little hotel in Montespluga and at Stuetta allows early morning starts for ski-mountanering