Queen Victoria (5.7-5.10-)

Page Type
Arizona, United States, North America
Trad Climbing
Spring, Summer, Fall, Winter
5331 ft / 1625 m
8485 Hits
79.04% Score
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Queen Victoria (5.7-5.10-)
Created On: Dec 26, 2006
Last Edited On: Mar 3, 2012


Sedona...Awesome Views-photo by Mekwise
Queen Victoria is one of the most popular spires in Sedona to climb. The summit offers great views of Sedona and Oak Creek Canyon. It is one of the first red rock towers a person sees when they drive in from Oak Creek Canyon and has striking prominence over the area. The easiest route up it is a three pitch 5.7 route with decent rock (for Sedona). This is a very popular climb due to is proximity to Sedona and also because of its short and straightforward approach. This is a great spire for a first multi-pitch lead or for anyone looking to have an awesome day of climbing with awesome views. The summit block may be the coolest part of the spire because it is around 10'x 10' giving one the true feeling of being on top of a spire.

Getting There

From Sedona- From the Arizona highway 89A and 179 junction in downtown Sedona, travel south for about 1/2 a mile to Schnebly Hill Road. Turn left on Schnebly Hill road. You will pass a Red Rocks kiosk/parking pass area and if you need a Red Rock Pass get it here because a pass is needed for parking. Once you get on the dirt road, travel for just over 1.3 miles and you will see a pull out on the left side (can fit 2-3 cars).


From the parking area, your aim is the saddle between the Moose's Butte and the spire of Queen Victoria. Right next to the parking area will be a wash and a small canyon coming into it. Follow this small canyon upstream as it gains elevation. At about .20 miles, the wash intersects with a trail. Take a left and follow this trail west for about .5 miles. This will put you right under the saddle of Moose's Butte and Queen Vitoria. From here, climb up the gully and stay right. Queen Victoria will be towering over you on the left side. The approach normally takes 30 minutes.
The DescentThe descent
The WashThe wash you need to take

Route Information

From the saddle, you can see a broken crack system on the East side of Queen Victoria. Traverse in from the right and go out to the ledge to set up the belay. Regular Route 5.7
Down Pitch 1Down pitch one
Pitch 1- is around 70ft of 5.6 climbing. The crack starts in more of a dihedral and then quickly turns into a prominent chimney. Climb to a fixed belay station with two bolts.
2nd PitchPitch 2
Pitch 2- Traverse left from fixed belay and sling a tree. There are two big broken blocks of limestone in front of you that form an off-width crack (**crux**). Use a #4 here and pull over these blocks. After this, walk 30 feet to the third belay (one bolt and a crack for a .5 cam). (5.7)
Pitch 3Pitch 3
Pitch 3- Is the last pitch and it goes up a chopped up and broken chimney. Walk around 10ft and then awkwardly pull a buldge that puts you at a little fin inside of the chimney. Layback and pull yourself over this. From here, its a 4th class scramble to the top belay. (5.7)
Rappel/Descent- Use the same anchors that you used for the top belay. Use your 60m rope and that drops you to the limestone band with more bolts. Rappel again from here and you will be at the bottom of the spire (a 60m rope barely reaches the bottom on this rappel). Careful when you pull your ropes here!! Gear Needed: Singles of BD #.5-#4 (#4 a must for pitch 2), possibly a set of nuts, 60m rope, 2-3 slings, and helmet

Red Tape

A Red Rock Pass is required to park in the area. Day passes can be purchased for $5. For more information about Red Rock Pass, click HERE.

Misc and Disclaimer

If you have any more additional information or photos, please contact me or add them to this page. While I can provide lots of information about this route, I cannot guarantee that the information will be up to date. Always check for current conditions and go prepared for the worst. New beta will be posted as necessary. Thank you!