Page Type Page Type: Mountain/Rock
Location Lat/Lon: 22.3396°S / 42.7238°W
Additional Information County: Nova Friburgo
Activities Activities: Hiking, Mountaineering, Trad Climbing, Sport Climbing, Toprope, Bouldering, Big Wall, Mixed, Scrambling
Seasons Season: Spring, Summer, Fall, Winter
Additional Information Elevation: 7598 ft / 2316 m
Sign the Climber's Log


Tres Picos is an isolate mountain of Serra dos Órgãos and, have a great wall to climb, around 800 meters verticals, a real paradise for climbers. The mountain is located in Nova Friburgo town, Salinas district. The rock formations are single, haven't another like this peak. The biggest granite rock is the culminant point of Serra dos Orgãos, including the Serra dos Órgãos National Park. This is an alkaline rock formations on the slopes of Serra dos Órgãos, seems like rock columns. Tres Picos is a majestic peak of this group
The highest Serra dos Órgãos peaks:
Tres Picos - 2316 mts
Pedra do Sino - 2275 mts
Morro da Luva - 2263 mts
Castelitos - 2240 mts

Tres Picos is formed by three great peaks:
Pico Maior - 2316 mts.
Pico Médio - 2285 mts.
Pico Menor - 2262 mts.

Capacete is the big granite block beside Tres Picos, is very beautiful and there, you've a good view of "the giant".

Tres Picos early morningTres Picos - 2316m

Getting There

Take a car or regular buses to Nova Friburgo town. From Rio de Janeiro, around 160 km separates the city from Tres Picos State Park. Salinas Valley is the last district before you reach the mountains. So, if you want to buy any complement. do it there. From there , take the way to Tres Picos without asphalt, follwing the way to IBELGA School, at the right sido of the road croosing Salinas Valley.

The way sequence to arrive Tres Picos ( From Rio de Janeiro )

Rio de Janeiro - Cross Rio-Niterói bridge ( 14 km ) - Niterói - Take BR-101 North - Itaboraí - Take RJ-116 ( Rota 116 ) - Cachoeiros de Macacu - Nova Friburgo - Take RJ-122 to Teresópolis - km30 ( turn to Salinas valley at left ) - Conquista District - Santa Cruz District - São Lourenço District - Turn to right to IBELGA School - The end of the road = Tres Picos camping.
To get the trailhead for the routes, you should to turn back till the last house before Deuses Valley, when as possible to see a big and a round stone, continues by this way. Some trails to the right side, take you to the great east wall. The end of this trail, is on the base of Pico Menor. Sometimes, after the rains, the trail could be closed by the vegetation.

The end of road to Tres...

São Lourenço Road

São Lourenço Road is one of many ways to get the Deuses Valley and the base of Tres Picos. This is a beautiful road with big houses, wild animals, Atlantic Forest and great visuals of Serra dos Orgãos. FRI-001 is the principal access with asphalt, and Tres Picos base is faraway around 10 km. São Lourenço road is the easiest way to rise the State Park. Another road to Vale dos Deuses is from Jaborandi, at Roca-Pedra's base.
São Lourenço road with Pico...Sao Lourenço Road

Red Tape

Do not climb the Tres picos group if you don't know about the routes, it's very dangerous, because the mountain has some different routes with difficult levels. This is some Tres Picos climb routes:
Arco da Velha 6° VI+ ( Pico Maior )
Pontão do Sol 5° VI + ( Pico Maior )
Variante Psylocybis 3° ( Pico Maior )
Leste ( East ) 4° V A1E3 ( Maior )
Chaminé Pellegrini 6° VI ( Pico Menor )
Devaneios do Repouso 6° VII ( Capacete )
Sol da Meia Noite 4° V + E3 ( Capacete )

Decadence Avec Elegance Route.Decadence Avec Elegance Route

When To Climb

April to October Season: Cold, dry and the days are much more clearly ;
November to March Season: Hot, rainy and the high humidity causes cloud cap.
Tres Picos and Capacete from...Fog in the valley: Attention!


Many campings in the perimeter of Tres Picos . The better camping area is Vale dos Deuses, with wild horses free, hawks, birds, water, big trees and near of all mountain access.
Jose Augusto Camping
Paulo's Camping

Mountain Conditions

It's very dangerous , because the weather changes dramatically. Weather and forecasts

Tres Picos Overviews

Route Links

Devaneios do Repouso - Capacete (6º VII)
Disk-Dique - Pico Maior (7ºXIa(A0)E3)
Via Leste - Pico Maior (4°V A1E3)
Chaminé Pellegrini - Pico Menor (6° VI A0)
Variante Psylocybis - Pico Maior (3°)
Sol da Meia Noite - Capacete (4° V+ E3)