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Area/Range |
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45.89520°N / 7.07660°E |
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Hiking, Mountaineering, Trad Climbing, Sport Climbing, Toprope, Bouldering, Ice Climbing, Aid Climbing, Big Wall, Mixed, Scrambling, Via Ferrata, Skiing |
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Spring, Summer, Fall, Winter |
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8901 ft / 2713 m |
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The page and the texts are PROPERTY of my dear friend OsvaldoCardellina "Osva", companion of excursions and climbs, who died on 02 May 2022. From 12 September 2022, the necessary updates will be made by Antonio Giani, administrator of the page, as by agreement with Osvaldo's family. ![]() La pagina e i testi sono di PROPRIETA’ del mio caro amico OsvaldoCardellina "Osva", compagno di escursioni e salite, deceduto il giorno 02 maggio 2022. Dal giorno 12 Settebre 2022, i necessari aggiornamenti verrano fatti da Antonio Giani, amministratore della pagina, come da accordo preso con la famiglia di Osvaldo. |
Even here, as was done for the Val Veny, I'm not to bore you with the list of the various refuges, bivouacs, the countless trails and endless Summit existing. If you want to have further details can be found in My Lists of the May 27th, 2010 with "
BY CAR:
BY PLANE:
Aeroporto "Corrado Gex" Saint Christophe (Aosta).In Courmayeur Municipality Ferret Valley with Northwestern, Western & Northeastern surroundings Grandes Jorasses small Valley: from Planpincieux (1.593m; parking) with path n°21 to Boccalatte-Piolti/Gr. Jorasses Refuge (2.604m). Freboudze small Valley: from Lavachey-Frébouge (1.640m, 1.654m) with path unnumbered to Giusto Gervasutti Bivouac (2.835m). Petite Jorasses small Valley: from Gervasutti Refuge-Bivouac through North ramification of Frébouge Glacier to Petite Jorasses Pass (3.520m). Leschaux-Greuvetta small Valley: from Courmayeur-Entrèves-Montitaz-Planpincieux-Arnouva (signal no transit; 1.769m) with Ferret Regional Road; from this point with dirt road and path n°23 to fork 1.875 meters and, with Northwest direction, to Dalmazzi or Triolet Refuge (2.584m).
Talèfre-Triolet small Valley and Basins: from refuge through:
If you have to go to Mont Dolent (3819m) or simply to Réfuge du Dolent and Fiorio Bivouac (2.780m) do not lose direction. How to lose direction? Just like that! When you get to Elena Hut or at the first of the hairpin just below him and at the Doire de Ferret and not be in a hurry, crossing the same, start going up towards Northwest towards the front of the Glacier de Pré de Bard: a series of signals color blue invites you to do so, especially if climbs in the dark. The same follow the shore hydrographic right (Southeast) of the same, but then to 2.250/300 meters about disappears constituting the old route, long since abandoned; a series of seracs and wide and treacherous crevasses in fact prevent the crossing to the North and then to the bivouacs (until the Eighties only the Fiorio). You'll have to force back wasting, ascent and descent, a good hour and a half. Just what it has happened to us in the now far away in August of 1979, when because of the rush to climb the Dolent through the long Ridge Grapillon, we made that mistake. Already the climb in the day and through the Normal Route is long, imagine having to do the same for the long ridge that Southeast from Punta Allobrogia, bypassing Grapillon and Petit Mont Grapillon, leads to the Summit. An unforgivable mistake that we force to arrive at 16.00 in a violent storm and with a French group of rope climbers, after the climbing on the North Face and that now in rapid descent to below lightning, meeting us at about 200 meters from the Top there apostrophe violently "Vous êtes vraiment fou de vouloir continuer à monter sous cette lourde orage! or You are really crazy to continue with this storm!". And they're right, but, you know, the Youth ... But you no, it will not happen because you have been warned! When you reach the hairpin bend, continue to the Rifugio Elena: a good small path n° 24 to the North up towards the Col du Petit Ferret (2.510m); by this double crossing, at first in the Southwest and then to Northwest, it will lead to the two camps. Do not underestimate this stretch than double the altitude in 2.517 meters near the end of the long South Crest of Punta Allobrogia; in the Eighties a young couple here have lost their lives: she is sliding along a stretch with grass "ollina" and he, in trying to hold her by the hair, was dragged along. But even if you want to climb the Dolent for Normal Route do not it underestimate: a few years later a Belgian girl, with the dad, have slipped down the upper ice going to crashing on the glacier after a terrible fall. Why the Mountain is like that and not always forgives mistakes. I understand better this and the invective of the French from when in July 1986 I was struck, in a trivial ascension, by lightning ...
Never mind the other areas of this side: are aimed at Mountaineers. And even very experts. At best, a good hike to Refuge Dalmazzi or of Triolet (2.584m) by the trail n° 23 meeting at the upper part some iron chain; but other shelters or bivouacs (Gabriele Boccalatte-Mario Piolti the Jorasses, Mario Jachia the Aiguille de l'Evêque, Giusto Gervasutti to Leschaux, Gianni Comino to Monts Rouges de Greuvetta (z) are the starting points for big climbs and some of them not easily accessible. Rifugio Elena, and also bivouacs Cesare Fiorio with the precautions recommended above, are the first a nice easy Walk and the second a good Excursion aimed at those who have more interest scenic or photografic that not to the climbing. Rifugio Elena, completely destroyed by an avalanche in 1960, it was rebuilt always near Alpe Pré de Bard or Pré de Bar and still Prou de Bar, a term originally Celtic-Ligurian meaning Meadow of the Rock; moreover the word Bard is very common in the Valley of Aosta (see also Bard Fortress) and the same result as the Noble Family Dalbard. The same was dedicated to Queen Elena of Savoy and Princess of Montenegro (* January 8, 1873, Cetinje, Montenegro - + November 28, 1952, Montpellier, France) and spouse of Vittorio Emanuele III° of Savoy (1896-1947), which it is also the name of the fifth Top of Grandes Jorasses (4.042m), climbing 22 August 1898 from the Duke of Abruzzi with the Guides of Courmayeur Giuseppe Petigax, Laurent Croux, Cesare and Felice Ollier after winning also the Punta Margherita (4.066m). The Bivouac Cesare Fiorio, placed here since 1952, remembers instead the talented climber and pioneer of climbing without Mountain Guides, climbing partner of Carlo Ratti. In the social outing and winter to Punta Gnifetti in the New Year of 1894 he brought a freeze with its amputation of a leg rather than abandon a dying comrade. He has been dedicated to the beautiful Summit (3.332m) at the entrance of the Valpelline and above the Municipality and at the beginning of the long Ridge towards the Mounts Morion. On the opposite side we have instead of Eastern or beautiful possibilities for day trips in Ski-Mountaineering inwardly of the small Valleys of Ban Darrey, of Bellecombe, the Malatrà, of Arminaz and Western slopes of Mont de la Saxe until the Refuge Giorgio Bertone. The same, however, require caution and good knowledge of the state of the snow, limiting the path to the initial portions certainly less dangerous and exposed to avalanches, as in the case of Rifugio Walter Bonatti at the Alpe Lower Malatrà. Beautiful, varied and rather safe trips Excursion in the same valleys with the ability to move from one to the other or to cross the divide to the valleys further East.
Lasciate stare le altre zone di questo versante: sono rivolte ad Alpinisti. Ed anche esperti. Al massimo effettuate una buona Escursione al Rifugio Dalmazzi o del Triolet tramite il sentiero n°23 incontrando nella parte superiore qualche breve tratto con catene in un canalino roccioso; ma gli altri rifugi o bivacchi (Gabriele Boccalatte-Mario Piolti alle Jorasses, Mario Jachia all'Aiguille de l'Evêque, Giusto Gervasutti alla Leschaux, Gianni Comino ai Monts Rouges de Greuvetta(z) sono punti di partenza per grandi ascensioni ed alcuni dei quali neppur facilmente raggiungibili. Il Rifugio Elena, ed anche i Bivacchi Cesare Fiorio con le precauzioni sopra testé raccomandate, costituiscono il primo una bella e facile Passeggiata ed il secondo una buona Escursione rivolte a chi ha più interessi panoramici oppur fotografici che non alpinistici. Il Rifugio Elena, completamente distrutto da una valanga nel 1960, é stato ricostruito sempre nei pressi dell'Alpe Prè de Bard o Prè de Bar ed ancora Prou de Bar, termine con origine celto-ligure significante Prato del Monte o della Roccia; tralaltro il vocabolo Bard é molto diffuso in Valle di Aosta (vedi anche Forte di Bard) e dallo stesso deriva il nome della Nobile Famiglia Dalbard. Lo stesso é stato dedicato alla Regina Elena di Savoia nonché Principessa del Montenegro (* 8 gennaio 1873, Cettigne, Montenegro - + 28 novembre 1952, Montpellier, Francia) nonché coniuge di Vittorio Emanuele III° di Savoia e terzo Re d'Italia (1896–1947); alla Regina d'Italia è dedicata anche la quinta punta delle Grandes Jorasses (4.042 m), salita il 22 Agosto 1898 dal Duca d'Abruzzi colle Guide di Courmayeur Giuseppe Petigax, Laurent Croux, Cesare e Felice Ollier in traversata dopo aver conquistato anche la Punta Margherita (4.066 m). Il Bivacco Cesare Fiorio, qui collocato dal 1952, ricorda invece il valente alpinista e pioniere dell'alpinismo classico nonché senza Guide Alpine, compagno di cordata di Carlo Ratti; nella gita sociale ed invernale alla Punta Gnifetti nel Capodanno del 1894 riportò un congelamento con relativa amputazione d'una gamba pur di non abbandonare un compagno morente. A lui é stata dedicata meritatamente la bella Sommità (3.332 m) all'ingresso della Valpelline e sopra l'omonimo Comune ed all'inizio della lunga Cresta dei Mont Morion. Sul versante opposto od Orientale abbiamo invece delle belle possibilità di effettuare gite di Sci-Alpinismo all'interno dei Valloni del Ban Darrey, di Bellecombe, del Malatrà, di Arminaz ed alle pendici Occidentali del Mont de la Saxe e fino al Rifugio Giorgio Bertone. Le stesse richiedono però prudenza e conoscenza dello stato del manto nevoso, limitando il percorso ai tratti iniziali sicuramente meno pericolosi ed esposti alle valanghe, come nel caso del Rifugio Walter Bonatti presso l'Alpe Inferiore di Malatrà. Belle, varie e sicure le gite Escursionistiche negli stessi valloni con la possibilità anche di passare da un all'altro o di attraversare lo spartiacque verso quelli più ad Est.
Remember that free camping is forbidden (except for emergency reasons, over 2.500m, from darkness until dawn).
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