Pit and the Pendulum, 5.10c, 4 Pitches

Overview/Approach

Pit and the Pendulum had not made my radar until I climbed its neighbor, the Witch Doctor, which afforded me a view down into the aesthetic open book corner of P&P’s pitch 3.  If you use Witch Doctor’s 1^st pitch to start P&P, not only will you essentially be climbing the best 5.9 at the Needles, but you will be following it up with the finest 5.10 corner in the Needles.  You can also use Gorilla (sic) Warfare, 5.10d, to start the route and it is one of the better 5.10 corner routes at the Needles as well.   The 2^nd pitch of P&P (technically it’s first) is mostly just moving the belay off the top of the pedestal that you used the other routes to get to, to the base of the massive hanging corner up and right.  The 4^th pitch has several options, the “Pit” (5.10+) or the Pendulum (5.9 A0).  A Yosemite Giant or Big Bro of the same size makes leading the Pit much safer.  #6’s as the local guide suggests don’t function at all on this pitch or route. These two options meet up again at the left end of the curving leftward roof.

Descend the main notch gully between the Charlatan and the Witch.  At the bottom of the southwest face of the Witch is a gully and large tree which mark the col between Necromancer and the Witch. Start up the obvious tall right facing corner.  Alternatively start on the left side of the same pedestal with Gorilla Warfare.

Route Description

1^st Pitch- 225’-5.9/  I have climbed both Gorilla and the start of Witch Doctor and prefer Witch Doctor to start P&P as it is more in line with the route.  This is one of the better sustained and aesthetic pitches at its grade in the entire Needles collection.  As with Red Rock NCA and many other climbing destinations, certain routes get “classic” status ingrained in them whilst other routes of similar or even better quality get ignored over time.  Witch Doctor is that route and this first pitch is a beauty at a full 70m rope length up the obvious right side, right facing corner, up the same pillar where Gorilla Warfare (another excellent route) is found on the left side.  The lay backing is relatively easy with feet features and scoops the whole way thus the grade.  You climb out right on a flake when the corner proper widens to #4’s, then back to the corner for some more layback to finish on knobs out on the left face to the top of the pillar.  Sling a large horn on the right side of the pillar ledge for the belay. 

2^nd Pitch- 100’-5.8/ Just one 5.8 slab move out and left from the top of the pedestal gains a 5^th class ramp cutting back right.  Follow it up to a comfortable ledge (named the Sundeck in the local guide) below the left leaning short roof/corner leading into the massive left facing “open book” corner.  Gear belay.

3^rd Pitch- 100’-5.10/ The crux of the pitch is turning the roof/corner to reach the main dihedral.  Lie back the roof/corner out left with great gear.  Pull out of it at the end with an awkward jam (crux).  Follow the finger/small hands corner up to the fixed rap out left (hanging belay).  A stellar pitch, one of the best 5.10’s at the Needles.

4^th Pitch- 225’-5.10+/ You have two options which define the name of the route.  The 5.9 A0 Pendulum or the 5.10+ Pit.   The Pit:  continue up the corner to the obvious squeeze off-width/chimney.  It takes a Yosemite Giant or big bro to protect.  The local guide incorrectly suggests “several large pieces to #6 for the off-width/chimney”.  In reality, outside of a single giant to walk up the 30’ chimney, you will be using a regular single rack including a few wires and/or micro cams.   Sans a “giant” piece, you can solo it and it does go with chimney technique vs squeeze, but is quite flaring.  Placing your back against the right wall is the way to go.  At the top of the chimney are plenty of horizontals for small to micro gear.  Traverse out left and turn out of the mini roofs to the left facing corner above.  Easy climbing from there to the top of the formation.  The 5.9 A0 option requires a pendulum from the fixed rap out left.  Then climb up 5.9 slab to reach the mossy and chossy right facing corner.  The leader needs to make the 5.9 slab move without gear so the follower can tension over later without a swing.  Place gear up in the wide corner and trend out right, sometimes using the arete, the corner and/or jugs. Pull the dirty bulge above to meet the same point where the Pit ties in.  Easier climbing to the top (gear belay).

Climbing Sequence 

Descent

The standard Witch descent.  Scramble north up 4^th class to the summit.  Downclimb an exposed 4^th class move to chains.  Make two single rope raps, trending climbers right, back to a short scramble down to the main notch.

Essential Gear

70m rope.  Double rack to #3, a single #4 optional.  Depending who is leading it, the first 225’ pitch eats up all the gear you want to place.  The guide references “several large pieces to 6” but short of a Yosemite Giant, any pieces larger than #3 have little to any use on the upper pitches.  The upper corner shades itself most all day, the lower corner is shaded until at least noon.