Aguglia di Goloritzé m. 143
Only 143 meters high? It doesn’t mean! Aguglia di Goloritzè is without any doubt one of the finest rocky structures in Italy: a superb shape, an outstanding exposure over the turquoise sea, a perfect rock and a wild environment. This incredible limestone obelisk is lying inside the Supramonte di Baunei and overlooks with its grey slender shape the white beach of Cala Goloritzè, one of the most suggestive bay of Sardinia and maybe of the whole Mediterranean Sea. Notwithstanding its high class limestone, it was climbed for the first time only in the Eighties, because of the tremendous look of its faces, impressive and overhanging all around. Its inaccessibility was broken in the winter of 1981, when the world renown party formed by Alessandro Gogna and Maurizio Zanolla “Manolo” won the tiny summit of the inviolate Aguglia during a violent wind-storm, giving to their route the appropriate and suggestive name of “Sinfonia dei Mulini a Vento” (“Symphony of Windmills”). Each year several parties are coming here from all Europe to compare themselves to the incredible needle, due to the outstanding quality of the limestone, sculpted by billions of “water drops”, the charming of its climbing routes, numberless at present, and the superb views appearing from the tiny summit, on which one can hardly straighten up. A wild marine “milieu”, the secluded situation, the remoteness from the civilization add to the experience a surplus of charm.
Access to the island of Sardinia
Sardinia, the most western region of Italy, doesn’t have any problem to be approached; it can be reached by plane or by ferry-boat both from Livorno and Civitavecchia ports. The most convenient destination in Sardinia to visit the Supramonte di Baunei, one of the wildest region of the island, is the airport of Olbia if you’re getting there by plane; the same Olbia or the near Golfo Aranci ports if you’re getting there by ferry-boat.
From Olbia or Golfo Aranci, situated just a few kilometers North to Olbia, follow the quick Motorway SS131 towards Nuoro and Siniscola, exit Lula. From here head towards Dorgali on the road SP 38, cross the town and continue, running on the superb and panoramic road SS125, named ”Orientale Sarda”, leading to the little town of Baunei. From Baunei, just before entering the village, turn to left following the road to the picturesque Church of San Pietro in Golgo (signpost Ristorante del Golgo); follow the road for about 10 km. and some hundred meters before getting to the church turn to right, following a gravel road (signpost Goloritzé) toward the Golgo Abyss (270 meters deep), which ends nearby an equipped camping (“Su Porteddu”). Paying parking inside the camping area.
From the camping follow a good path rising to the tableland, then descending into a narrow valley - named Bacu Goloritzé - amongst a few typical shepherd’s ancient
caves and leading to Cala Goloritzè. Some minutes before getting to the wild beach the path is skirting the North-East face of the obelisk (1 hour from the parking going down, 1 and a half returning up).
Aguglia di Goloritzè main routes
Aguglia di Goloritzè main routes from left to right - French Scale
- Itu Damagoni (Il mio Veleno) - East face 7a max, 6c obbl., 105 m.
- Dolce Stil Novo – East face 6c max, 6b obbl., 135 m.
- Spigolo Turchese – East face 6c max, 6b obbl., 100 m.
- Sinfonia dei Mulini a Vento – North face 6b+ max, 5c obbl., 165 m.
- Sole incantatore - North face 6c max, 6b obbl., 135 m.
- Easy Gymnopedie North-West face 6b max, 5c obbl., 140 m.
Sinfonia dei Mulini a Vento (“Symphony of Windmills”) report
Sinfonia dei Mulini a Vento (“Symphony of Windmills”) report - French Scale
Summit altitude: m. 143
Difficulty: 6b+ max., 5c obbl
Climbing length: 165 m.
Equipment: few equipped, necessary some friends and nuts
First ascent: Alessandro Gogna and Maurizio Zanolla “Manolo” 21-4-1981
A spectacular route on excellent limestone, the normal route and the first one to be climbed on Aguglia di Goloritzè. Can’t be missed! Here the climber can find all the climbing ways, from the technical slabs, to the cracks, corners and chimneys. It’s the easiest route to gain the summit, but it’s also the less equipped.
The starting point is in the middle of the North-East face, nearby the lowest point of the face.
L1 – Climb a system of thin slanting cracks to a tree, then climb some easier rocks on the left, leaving on the right the belay of the route “Sole Incantatore”. Climb a white slab to a shallow corner, leading on the right to the first belay. 5c, 6a, 45 m.
L2 – Climb easily to the bottom of an obvious chimney. 4b, 10 m.
L3 – Up the beautiful smooth chimney, between the main wall and a detached pillar on the left, getting to a shoulder. 6a, 15 m.
L4 – Climb a beautiful thin crack, becoming a shallow and difficult corner, leading to the ridge. Belay on the ridge. 6a, then 6b+, 20 m.
L5 – Don’t follow the bolts of the route Spigolo Turchese on the ridge, but traverse easily towards right reaching a good ledge. 3c, 10 m.
L6 – Climb the Y shaped crack cutting the slab and at the fork follow the right branch, belaying on a small terrace on the right along the N ridge. Superb pitch. 6a+, 35 m.
L7 – Return left to climb a small corner, then a sloping slab. Up on the last small wall to the airy and tiny summit. 4c, 30 m.
Descent: rappelling along the route “Sole Incantatore” (on the left of “Sinfonia”, facing out). A first 10 meters long abseil leads to the fifth belay of “Sole Incantatore”. Then do other 4 or 5 abseils – depending by the length of the ropes – to the bottom.
- Buon anno simpatia – West face 6c, 6b obbl., 165 m., few equipped
- L’Orsetto lavatore e il suo compare – West face 7b+/A0, 6c+ obbl.,115 m.
Red TapeThere are not particular restrictions in hiking and climbing inside this area; cars must be parked with care, only in the camping area and in any case without stopping the existing shepherd’s tracks.
The Baunei area is lying inside Parco Nazionale del Gennargentu e del Golfo di Orosei. The wild territory of the park belongs to the Nuoro, Ogliastra and Cagliari provinces and had been established in 1998. Its 73.935 hectares' extension includes 18 communes: Aritzo (NU), Arzana (OG), Baunei (OG), Belvi (NU), Desulo (NU), Dorgali (NU), Fonni (NU), Gadoni (NU), Gairo (OG), Oliena (NU), Orgosolo (NU), Seui (OG), Seulo (CA), Talana (OG), Tonara (NU), Urzulei (OG), Ussassai (OG), Villagrande Strisaili (OG).
The climate is typically Mediterranean; plenty of sunshine, mild temperatures, poor rainfalls and windy weather. Some rainfalls usually occur from October to March and sometimes they may be violent, but generally brief. The mild climate of the island allows the climb all around the year, though South faces are always too hot in summer. Sometimes the NW wind (maestrale) may be a problem, when it’s very strong.
When to climbIt’s possible to climb all around the year, finding good conditions in every season; yet in winter the winds may sometimes be strong and cold and in summer the sun may be as much strong.
Where to stay- The equipped area “Su Porteddu” is available at the end of the gravel road.
- Hotel and flats in Baunei
MeteoMETEO ARPA SARDEGNA
Guidebooks and maps
“Pietra di Luna” by Maurizio Oviglia - Saredit