Welcome to SP!  -
Monte Oddeu
Mountain/Rock

Monte Oddeu

 
Monte Oddeu

Page Type: Mountain/Rock

Location: Nuoro, Italy, Europe

Lat/Lon: 40.22360°N / 9.51096°E

Object Title: Monte Oddeu

County: Sardinia

Activities: Hiking, Trad Climbing, Sport Climbing, Scrambling

Season: Spring, Fall

Elevation: 3488 ft / 1063 m

 

Page By: Silvia Mazzani

Created/Edited: May 7, 2014 / Apr 8, 2016

Object ID: 896582

Hits: 1232 

Page Score: 84.27%  - 18 Votes 

Vote: Log in to vote

 

Overview

Geographical classification: Sardegna - Sardinia > Supramonte > Monte Oddeu




Monte Oddeu m. 1063




The suggestive Monte Oddeu is an important summit belonging to the Supramonte di Dorgali, the Eastern part of the Supramonte Massif, a primary climbing and hiking destination in Sardinia, situated in the North-East part of the island. The peak is located between two amazing gorges:
- to the South –West the Su Gorropu Gorge, one of the most famous rock formation on the island, a narrow gorge dominated by mighty overhanging walls and cut through by the Flumineddu river, which flows with crystal clear waters through the limestone cliffs
- to the North-West the smaller Dolòverre di Surtana, a limestone valloon delimitated by two parellel walls in shape of rocky pillars

Supramonte and Surtana annotated view
M. Oddeu, Surtana Gorge and Supramonte karst relief



“Oddeu” in the sardinian dialect means “God’s mountain”; it seems that the place-name comes from the dazzling white colour of the peak, especially on its Western side, a karst rounded slope. This latter highly contrasts with the Eastern side, which shows a stunning wide and high wall build in by an excellent carved limestone, yellow and grey coloured, overlooking the Oddoene Valley, a place already known by the Romans, rich in vineyeards and olive-groves.





Monte Oddeu summit pano over Oddoene Valley
Monte Oddeu summit pano over Oddoene Valley




Getting There

Access to the island

Sardinia can be reached by plane or by ferry-boat, both from Livorno and Civitavecchia ports. The most convenient destination in Sardinia to visit the Supramonte area, one of the wildest region of the island, is the airport of Olbia if you’re getting there by plane; the same Olbia port or the near Golfo Aranci port if you’re getting there by ferry-boat.

Road approach

The nearest village is Dorgali.

From Olbia or Golfo Aranci, situated just a few kilometers North to Olbia, follow the Motorway SS131 towards Nuoro and Siniscola, exit Lula. From here head towards Dorgali on the road SP 38 and reach the town, then turn to right taking the ring-road and continue, following the panoramic road SS125, named ”Orientale Sarda”, for about 3 km. After the fork with the road to Cala Gonone (on the left) continue briefly along the SS125, then leave the main road and take on the right a road descending into the Oddoene Valley. Turn to left and follow the road winding in the valley and getting after some kilometers to the S’Abba Arva bridge over Rio Flumineddu. Park the car in a pull out near the bridge. Cross the bridge and turn to right, following a gravel road for about 400 meters as far as a pull out on the left.

Surtana Doloverre
The Surtana Gorge and the karst slopes of Supramonte


Monte Oddeu Normal Route from Oddoene Valley

From the pull out take the Scala ‘e Surtana path, rising with several hairpins and reaching the entrance of the Doloverre di Surtana, a saddle dominated by the North ridge of Monte Oddeu on the left and by the Monte Tondu on the right. Follow the path on the bottom of the gorge, when it forks turn to left (wooden signpost) getting soon the bottom of the Scala ‘e Cucuttos. The path rises quickly reaching the Cuccuru Ladu ridge-line m. 540. From here head towards South along a crest called Mesattas, which rises at first regularly then steeply, crossing peculiar limestone’s slabs and blades and little valleys to the panoramic summit of Monte Oddeu. From the summit the hiker can enjoy a superb 360° view over the Supramonte, the Surtana Gorge and the Oddoene Valley.

Riu Flumineddu in fall
Oddoene Valley and Flumineddu River in Fall
Monte Oddeu
Monte Oddeu
Coming storm over Surtana Gorge
Clouds rising over Punta Cusidore

Climbing routes of Monte Oddeu

On the stunning East Face of Monte Oddeu we can choose to climb amongst several fine classic and moderne routes on superb limestone. From left to right (French Scale):

- Buena Sarda Social Club 7a+, 6c obbl. 210 m.
- Margarites 7a+, 6b+ obbl., 220 m.
- Sale Grosso 6c+, 6a+ obbl., 250 m.
- Nirvana 7b, 6b obbl., 300 m.
- La Mia Africa 6c+, 6b obbl., 220 m.
- Madame Bovary 7a, 6b obbl., 180 m.
- Abbas Abbadas 6b+, 6a obbl., 200 m.
- Vivere di Sogni 6c+, 6c obbl., 155 m.
- Est Asia 6c. 6b obbl., 170 m.
- Bo Tep 6c+, 6b+ obbl., 200 m.
- Por el Pueblo oprimido 6c, 6a obbl., 240 m.
- Compagni di viaggio 6a+, 6a obbl., 210 m.
- Codina di topo
- Quindicesima Legione (North Ridge) UIAA III, IV, 180 m. - Classic climb


Contemplating the beauties of nature from the summit ridge
Contemplation from the summit ridge

A climber negotiating a steep pillar
A climber negotiating a steep pillar
 

Compagni di viaggio (Trip Companions) report

Compagni di viaggio (Trip Companions) report - French Scale

Summit altitude: m. 1063
Difficulty: F6a+, F6a+ obbl.
Climbing length: 210 m.
Exposure: East
Equipment: Bolts
First ascent: F. Cappa – E. Pinotti – P. Romanini 22 – 6 - 2000
Starting point: S’Abba Arva bridge


A spectacular route on excellent limestone and on homogeneous difficulties, running on a steep superb wall facing East. For this reason, summer is not a good period to climb this route.

Approach - From Dorgali take the road SS125, called ”Orientale Sarda”, and follow it for about 3 km.; after the fork with the road to Cala Gonone (on the left) leave the main road and take on the right a road descending to the Oddoene Valley. Turn to left and follow the road getting to the S’Abba Arva bridge over Rio Flumineddu. Cross the bridge and turn to right, following a gravel road. Parking. A wooden stairway on the left of the road allows to step over the enclosure. The starting point of the route is just nearby the stairway, on the right end of East face.

Beautiful grey slab on Compagni di Viaggio
A sculpted grey slab on Compagni di Viaggio

Superb limestone on Compagni di Viaggio
Superb limestone on Compagni di Viaggio
 



L1 - Climb a little pillar cut by thin horizontal cracks, then a compact slab to a terrace with trees. Head to left and belay on a ilex. 6a+, 45 m.
L2 – Up directly over the belay, then climb slants to right and up a steep edge with blades. 5c+, 25 m.
L3 - Climb a superb and steep wall with water’s drops, then a slab slants to left and belay under an overhanging step. 6a, 25 m.
L4 – Climb a crack on the right of the stance, then on easier ground to another stance. 5a, 30 m.
L5 – A slanting- left pitch on another superb slab, then a short wall leads to a belay on a yellow zone. 5b, 6a, 25 m.
L6 – Slanting right to the bottom of a dihedrals’ sequence. Climb the dihedrals to a ledge. Traverse left on the narrow ledge to a stance.
L7 – Skirt a ginepro on the left, climb a white pillar then a wall with blades, leading to the summit ridge. 6a, 30 m.

Descent: from the summit ridge head to West to reach a gully. Scramble down the vegetated gully (cairns) to the Doloverre di Surtana and to the path on the bottom of the gorge. Turn to right and follow the path reaching the Scala e’Surtana and the starting point (30 minutes from the summit).

Red Tape

An agreeable little Sardinian donkey in the Oddoene Valley
A little Sardinian donkey

Traditional Sardinian fold in the Oddoene Valley
Traditional Sardinian fold in the Oddoene Valley



No fees and no particular restrictions in hiking and climbing inside this area.
All the Supramonte Massif is lying inside the Parco Nazionale del Gennargentu e del Golfo di Orosei. The wild territory of the park belongs to the Nuoro, Ogliastra and Cagliari provinces and had been established in 1998. Its 73.935 hectares' extension includes 18 communes: Aritzo (NU), Arzana (OG), Baunei (OG), Belvi (NU), Desulo (NU), Dorgali (NU), Fonni (NU), Gadoni (NU), Gairo (OG), Oliena (NU), Orgosolo (NU), Seui (OG), Seulo (CA), Talana (OG), Tonara (NU), Urzulei (OG), Ussassai (OG), Villagrande Strisaili (OG).

Climate

The mild climate of the island allows the climb all around the year, though South and East faces are always too hot in summer. Sometimes the NW winds (maestrale) may be a problem.

Meteo

METEO ARPA SARDEGNA

When to climb and hike

It’s possible to climb all around the year on Monte Oddeu, but the best seasons are Spring and Fall.

Where to stay

Several accommodations possible in Dorgali and Cala Gonone.
Campsite, hotels and renting rooms in Cala Gonone.
Hotels and huts in Dorgali and surroundings.

Guidebooks

 
Monte Oddeu map
 

Pietra di Luna - Trad & Multipitches

Pietra di Luna - Trad & Multipitches

Maurizio Oviglia

Trad and sport multipitch guidebook - V updated edition

Fabula 2015
Sardinia guidebook

Sardegna

Maurizio Oviglia

Guida dei Monti d'Italia
Club Alpino Italiano - Touring Club Italiano 1997


Maps

 
Sardinia map
 




Click here to enlarge Dorgali-Dorgali km 356enlarge


CLICK HERE TO SEE THE DORGALI MAP 3D Dorgali Map 3d

Images