OverviewAnt's Line is another Gunks classic in the High E area of the Trapps. The route is entertaining from the start and features great, steep corner climbing. Be aware that because the route and it's neighbor Ent's Line (5.10d) are so easily accessible, that this section of the wall can get "top rope slammed" by large groups.
Wake up early, beat the crowds, and enjoy this classic route!
From the West Trapps (upper) parking lot: Follow the carriage road for ~17 minutes until you see the distinct, triangular High E Buttress. Take the access trail immediately following the one that leads to the base of High E. There should be a huge detached block at the top of the trail that sits at the base of Ant's Line.
From the Wawarsing (lower) parking lot: Ascend the stair master until you reach the carriage road at the East Trapps Trail Connector. Turn right and follow the carriage road to the same point described above.
: Head up the steep, clean corner ~25 ft. left of the start of Bonnie's roof. Climb up to a broad ledge where a wide crack and jugs start at the left edge of the initial, low roof. Some sustained moves (jam and stem all the way) will put you beneath a smaller, triangular roof. Reach high and pull through the roof (crux). Easier but sustained moves up and left out of the corner will lead you to a two-bolt belay station. (5.9, ~80 ft.)
Descent: Either lower off the chains or link up with Sleepwalk (5.7) and follow it to the top of the cliff.
Chris Farmer follow me on Ant's Line
- 60m rope
- Nuts (whichever variety you please)
- Cams from mid C3 to 3" (4" can find a home on the route, though it is not absolutely necessary)
- Tricams (The Gunks is the king of tricam placements)
- Lockers, nonlockers, prussiks, etc. (whatever you enjoy hauling up with you in The Gunks)