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Erect Direction

Erect Direction


Page Type: Route

Location: New York, United States, North America

Object Title: Erect Direction

Route Type: Trad Climbing

Season: Spring

Time Required: Less than two hours

Rock Difficulty: 5.10c (YDS)

Number of Pitches: 3

Grade: II

Route Quality: 
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Page By: RyderS

Created/Edited: Apr 13, 2012 / Apr 14, 2012

Object ID: 785220

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One of the fairly stiffer lines in the Traps (“stiffer” speaking from the perspective of normal climbers and not badass Gunks’ locals), Erect Direction will keep you on your toes for its second and third pitches. If you are looking for some absurd roof moves, Erect Direction certainly has them. The route starts off moderately at 5.8, but cranks up to a hard Gunks 5.10 (c, to be exact) in the upper 2 pitches. If you are like me, it is a good route to lead the first pitch and then hand the sharp end over to an experienced Gunks local!

NB: Sorry about the lack of pictures. I was too busy getting pumped un-slotting some really artfully placed gear by my leader on the second and third pitches. I plan to climb the route again, so I will have more pictures in the near future!

Getting There

If you park in the Wawarsing (lower) lot, you will first have to ascend the Stairmaster. Once you reach the carriage road, turn right. It is about a 5 to 7-minute walk from the trail junction. If you are coming from the West Trapps (upper) parking lot, it is about a 10-minute walk. You will be looking for the start CCK and Updraft.

Set up shop on the right facing wall immediately to the left of Updraft.

Route Description

Pitch 1: Ascend the crack to the left of the start of CCK and Updraft. The crux will be fairly early on as you reach a large pod in the crack a little over a third of the way up. The pitch will become progressively easier and ledg-ier the higher you progress. Follow the crack to the GT ledge and belay off the biggest tree near where the pitch finishes. (~80 ft.; 5.8)

Pitch 2: Trend left from the belay station and head up the easy slab ahead of you until you are underneath a roof. Build a ‘nest of courage’ with some pro and pull the roof where there is an offwidth crack. You can attempt to take the off-width straight on, or you can move a little right and finesse you way through the roof on some thin crimpers. Either way, this sequence is quite pumpy. Once pulling the roof, there will be a series of underclings in the block just above. Continue right, until the good holds start moving upward in a small, right-facing dihedral. Here you will find an anchor station consisting of a bunch of fixed gear, most notably a ton of nuts and passive pro. Build a hanging belay and prepare for a potential flail sesh by your second. (~70 ft.; 5.10c)

Pitch 3: Climb up from the belay station until you are under the second, large roof. Protect as you move out left along a pumpy hand traverse. There will be some holds beneath you that will only provide significant help if you have the correct sequence. Move left until just before the roof meets the arête and prepare to pull the roof. Shake out, breathe, and focus. Pull the roof with some seriously burly moves.. You may want to protect above and beyond the pieces you get in on the hand traverse but doing so will require protecting from a ridiculously exposed position. After the roof, move up and left through slightly easier ground until you hit the top of the cliff. (~60 ft.; 5.10a)

Getting Down:
From the top of the cliff, head right for about 150’ until you find a small notch to scramble down. The rap chains for CCK will be here. 3 raps with a single and 2 with doubles will get you down to the ground

Essential Gear

60 m single or double ropes
Cams to 4”, though the #4 is not required
Small Cams (smaller C3s)
Some wires (in case you get desperate)
Your standard day-trip climbing swag

External Links

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