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Anti-Ego Crack
Route

Anti-Ego Crack

 
Anti-Ego Crack

Page Type: Route

Location: California, United States, North America

Object Title: Anti-Ego Crack

Route Type: Trad Climbing

Time Required: Less than two hours

Rock Difficulty: 5.7 (YDS)

Difficulty: 5.7 Crack Climb

Number of Pitches: 1

Grade: I

Route Quality: 
 - 3 Votes
 

 

Page By: Dragger

Created/Edited: May 1, 2008 / May 2, 2008

Object ID: 400489

Hits: 2189 

Page Score: 75.81%  - 6 Votes 

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Overview

This fun crack climb starts as a slightly offwidth, nearly vertical crack climb and gradually narrows to a fist jam, and then to a perfect hand crack as it narrows and backs off. After that the angle backs off significantly and it becomes an easy knob heaven as you traverse up and over to the belay. Great practice crack!

Getting There

Park on either side of the Cascade Creek bridge on your way into or out of the valley. It's just before the last tunnel on Route 120. There are two parking areas and there tends to be quite a few photo takers in this area. If there's no room -- wait a minute or two and you can probably get a spot.

Once you've parked your car, get yourself to the eastern side of the Cascade Creek bridge and hike up the narrow, steep trail on the north side of the road. It starts next to Cascade Creek. It's a quick (5 minute) walk to the base of Pot Belly, the first formation you come to.

After you reach Pot Belly, scramble up around the right side of Pot Belly. Once you've reached the base of the climb, again scramble up and to the right, skirting the right side of the formation. The climb starts near the base of a tree maybe 25 feet from the lower base of Sloth Wall

Route Description

As mentioned above, the first 10 feet of the climb are slightly offwidth but the crack narrows as you go up. The next 10 feet are fist crack-sized. The next 10 feet are a perfect hand crack. The climb is shy of vertical but not by that much -- definitely enough to wake you up. After the first 30 feet, the climb's angle backs off significantly and the climbing becomes a 5.easy knob jungle gym. Keep going up and to the left until you reach the rap tree. It will be obvious with many old (and some newer) slings around it.

Essential Gear

Cams are helpful on the beginning of this climb, starting with a #4 and moving down to #3, #2, and eventually #1. Bring doubles if you want to sew it up, but you can probably just slide some of the cams up if you're feeling nervous. The top part of the climb is much lower angle so you probably won't need too much gear but some smaller cams or nuts would be helpful. If you continue up the crack for a ways instead of wandering out on the (largely) unprotectable face, you will want some long slings to prevent rope drag.

Images

Craig Leading Anti-Ego CrackThe Start of Anti-Ego Crack