Sierra Nevada
Overview
"Turkey Pie" is an easy lieback (5.4) to a gritty wide crack (5.7) to a fist crack. (5.7) Handjam really loves this climb! It's not difficult but can be painful if you armbar in the grit. The name says it all: Who could dislike a climb called "Turkey Pie"??Getting There
Park on either side of the Cascade Creek bridge on your way into or out of the valley. It's just before the last tunnel on Route 120. There are two parking areas and there tends to be quite a few photo takers in this area. If there's no room -- wait a minute or two and you can probably get a spot.Once you've parked your car, get yourself to the eastern side of the Cascade Creek bridge and hike up the narrow, steep trail on the north side of the road. It starts next to Cascade Creek. It's a quick (5 minute) walk to the base of Pot Belly, the first formation you come to.
After you reach Pot Belly, head down and to the right a little, around a slab formation. There is a nervey 4th class traverse move to get to the base of the climb. At the base there is a little room and you'll be facing a right-leaning crack.
The approach to the base of Turkey Pie.
Route Description
For the first part of the pitch, you'll be liebacking and finger locking on a low-angle crack that leans to the right. There are huge knobs for your feet too. The rock is gritty and I don't this route sees much action. About a third of the way up, you turn the corner and start up a wide (offwidth) crack with cracks inside of it as well. These inner cracks can be fist-jammed. Sticking your toes in the inner cracks works well. Arm-barring is possible too. Follow this wide crack up until you reach the tree at the top of the pitch. From here you can either rap off (there are rappel rings) or traverse to the left to link this route with Anti-Ego Crack. (Also 5.7)Essential Gear
To protect the climb, use nuts and cams from .5 - 4 inches. Doubles of 2-4 inches are helpful. If you sling the tree at the top to protect one traverse move, you'll need a long sling. That's it!Images
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