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Sloppy Seconds
Route

Sloppy Seconds

 
Sloppy Seconds

Page Type: Route

Location: California, United States, North America

Lat/Lon: 37.74000°N / 119.58°W

Object Title: Sloppy Seconds

Route Type: Trad Climbing

Season: Spring, Fall

Time Required: Less than two hours

Rock Difficulty: 5.6 (YDS)

Difficulty: 5.5/5.6 Depending on which way you exit

Number of Pitches: 1

Grade: I

Route Quality: 
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Page By: Dragger

Created/Edited: May 14, 2007 / May 5, 2008

Object ID: 293239

Hits: 2762 

Page Score: 76.65%  - 7 Votes 

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Overview

This crack is up above Anti-Ego Crack and is an easy "adventure" climb that doesn't see too much traffic. It can be linked with Turkey Pie to be a two pitch route at Knob Hill. It is alternatively a hand crack, a lieback crack, a climb-through-trees and dirt crack, and a wander-out-and-traverse-big-unprotectable-knobs climb. Fun if you ask me!

Getting There

Park on either side of the Cascade Creek bridge on your way into or out of the valley. It's just before the last tunnel on Route 120. There are two parking areas and there tends to be quite a few photo takers in this area. If there's no room -- wait a minute or two and you can probably get a spot.

Once you've parked your car, get yourself to the eastern side of the Cascade Creek bridge and hike up the narrow, steep trail on the north side of the road. It starts next to Cascade Creek. It's a quick (5 minute) walk to the base of Pot Belly, the first formation you come to.

After you reach Pot Belly, scramble up around the right side of Pot Belly. Once you've reached the base of the climb, again scramble up and to the right, skirting the right side of the formation. You'll need to shimmy around a boulder to reach the base of the climb, where you can see the hand crack heading up.

You can also climb Turkey Pie first and link it with Sloppy Seconds.

 
Looking Up Knob Hill (5.7- 5.10a)
The main Knob Hill face. Skirt this face, up and to the right, to reach the base of Sloppy Seconds.


Route Description

The route starts at the very right side of the upper Knob Hill area. To reach the base, you'll need to either climb Turkey Pie and traverse/scramble up and to the left, or scramble up and to the right of the upper Knob Hill area where "Just for Starters" is located. Either way, scramble up around a big boulder and belay just below the fairly low-angle hand crack. The hand crack goes up maybe 40 feet and then you climb an easy flake. The climbing is easy but watch your footing; there is a lot of loose dirt/leaves/bushes/branches. Once you reach the top of the flake, straddle the tree and move left on to the face. Wander up the big knobs (not much pro here but it's easy 5th) until you reach the belay station (Look for a tree with slings on it, per Rhyang). From here you can either rappel with two ropes or you can probably do two rappels with one rope if you pendulum to climbers' left side. (It's probably easier to just rappel into the gully with one rope and then scramble down the 3rd-class gully.) Note: The Reed guide notes you can exit to the right instead of stepping out on to the face -- this exit would bring you back up and above Turkey Pie.

Essential Gear

Medium-sized nuts and cams. (.5 - 3)
A couple of long slings for trees came in handy, especially where you step left onto the face with the knobs.

Images

Handjam romping up Anti-Ego CrackBig Smile at the end of Anti-Ego CrackThe start of Anti-Ego CrackBalancy Moves on Anti-Ego CrackAnother Look at the Top of Anti-Ego CrackCyril Traverses the end of Anti-Ego Crack