OverviewThis trad. rock climb is a fun warmup. It starts up a straightforward finger crack, meanders into a balancy (5.7) undercling, around a flake, and up an easy "slothful", medium sized crack that can be used for protection.
Getting TherePark on either side of the Cascade Creek bridge on your way into or out of the valley. It's just before the last tunnel on Route 120. There are two parking areas and there tends to be quite a few photo takers in this area. If there's no room -- wait a minute or two and you can probably get a spot.
Once you've parked your car, get yourself to the eastern side of the Cascade Creek bridge and hike up the narrow, steep trail on the north side of the road. It starts next to Cascade Creek. It's a quick (5 minute) walk to the base of Pot Belly, the first formation you come to.
After you reach Pot Belly, scramble up around the right side of Pot Belly. Once you've reached the base of the climb, look to the right of the bolted route for a finger crack and a triangle flake. That's the route.
Route DescriptionThis is a strightforward, single pitched climb that has its 5.7 crux down low. Follow the easy finger crack up and to the right. The crux is as you undercling/balancey right move to an easy flake. Go around the flake (sling pro if you put some here) and follow the meandering, straightforward crack up to the left, then back slightly to the right. Keep going on easy knob heaven, up and up, until you reach the belay tree with all the slings on it. It takes two ropes to rappel and reach the ground. You can also rappel with a single rope into the gully from the tree.
Note: Per Rhyang, there's a second pitch that follows a 5.5 parallel crack system up and to the right. From there, you can rappell 200 ft. to the ground or climb an additional 50 ft. of fourth class to the top and walk/scramble off. The crack ends near the manzanita, which has rap slings. You can rap using a single rope from there down to the first tree, which is preferable.