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Page Type: Route

Location: California, United States, North America

Lat/Lon: 37.74000°N / 119.58°W

Object Title: Moritorium

Route Type: Trad Climbing

Time Required: Half a day

Rock Difficulty: 5.11b (YDS)

Number of Pitches: 4

Grade: III

Route Quality: 
 - 1 Votes


Page By: CClaude

Created/Edited: Oct 1, 2007 / Oct 2, 2007

Object ID: 343033

Hits: 2915 

Page Score: 73.06%  - 3 Votes 

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The Moritorium is a great 4 pitch climb on Schultz's Ridge, ending just below the start of the East Buttruss of El Capitan. The route consists of three pitches of incrediably clean tips in a dihedral to a final pitch of mediocre 5.9 blocky scrambling. Very worthwhile to do.

Getting There

From the parking lot of Manure Pile buttress head west and uphill until you reach the talus. Even better is start at the pull out just before El Cap Meadows and head uphill to reach the talus. The talus will bring you eventually to the base of the Moritorium which starts atop a small pedistal.

Route Description

Moritorium Topo
Topo of the Moritorium: 5.11b (III)

Pitch 1: Moderate (5.10a enduro) corners for about 120ft leads to a short cruxy thin section (green aliens)-5.10dleading to a belay on the left side of the wall at a ledge with fairly burly belay bolts, (~150ft) Carry green aliens to a blue camalot for this pitch

Pitch 2: Ackward but moderate climbing off the belay back in the dihedral corner leads to clean small liebacks to a cruxy finish at a belay ledge on the left. At the crux there is a hidden nut placement that will allow you to relax a it going for the ledge, belaying at burly bolts.(5.10d) (<100ft)

Pitch 3: Easy climbing leads to superthin cam placements (blue camalots) and technical stemming/smearing(5.11b), quickly leading to easier climbing to a belay (5.9 after the crux) belaying on gear and a piton and manky fixed webbing (as of 2002)

Pitch 4: Forgettable blocky 5.9 leading to the ledge and the base of the East Buttruss of El Cap.

Descend: The route can be rapped from the top of pitch 2 easily with two ropes. It can b rapped from the top of pitch 3 if you trust the manky stuff that is there (as of 2002), or you can walk down the slopes of the East side of El Cap down towards the Nose leading back to El Cap Meadows and your car

Essential Gear

Small Nuts
Aliens (blue) to Blue Camalot (3.0) with extras in the small sizes
60m Rope (2 if you are going to rappel the route- not suggested)

External Links

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Moritorium Topo