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Beat Farmer
Route

Beat Farmer

 

Page Type: Route

Location: California, United States, North America

Lat/Lon: 37.45400°N / 119.536°W

Object Title: Beat Farmer

Route Type: Lead/TR

Time Required: Less than two hours

Difficulty: 5.10d

Route Quality: 
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Page By: Dave Daly

Created/Edited: Dec 18, 2002 / Dec 18, 2002

Object ID: 157506

Hits: 2426 

Page Score: 0%  - 0 Votes 

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Approach


Access the base of this climb as per the approach used for 'Snowball'. This route is in the center of Zipa-De-Do-Da Buttress.

Route Description


The opening moves of 'Beat Farmer' start low (squat) on a small undercling and then work upward on side pulls using a small seam. The 1st bolt (12') is at the end of this seam near a bomber hand hold. The crux (.10d) is in between the 1st and 2nd bolt. Small crimps and thin rounded flakes lead past three more bolts to finish at a large ledge (70'). Lower off or rappel the route by using two cold shut anchors.

Essential Gear


Quickdraws!

Rating Accuracy


It is in the opinion of this page maintainer and fairly experienced climber that the first ascensionist of 'Beat Farmer' and other routes put up by the same person are inconsistant and inaccurate in rating. In most cases, the routes are overrated and sometimes over bolted (such is the case at Tollhouse Rock and Squarenail climbing areas). The old Southern Yosemite Rock Climbs guide published that this climb is rated 5.11d. However, it is the general concensus of many experienced Central Valley climbers that this one particular climb rates 5.10d at best. Please understand that this does not merit solid proof that this climb and others put up by 'Beat Farmers' first ascensionist are all overrated. If in question, consult local climbers for accuracy of rating and route beta.