Golden Gate

Approach

Use the same trail required to access routes of Zipa-De-Do-Da Buttress.

Route Description

This route is located immediately left of 'Thin Spread' (15 feet around the corner of the rounded arete). Starting at the base is a nice finger crack. This is 'Golden Gate'. Proceed up the crack (pro 1/2" to 1"). This is one of the prettiest cracks on Wamello and has a somewhat sustained nature to it with the occasional rest. Although the climb is rated 5.7, it is one of the more serious 5.7's to be reckoned with. Continue till the crack ends on a small ledge near a small manzanita bush. From there continue up a more casual, lower angle crack (5.5) that first heads right then up (pro to 2"). The beauty of this climb is that it takes cams like a $10 dollar hooker takes to rock candy!! The crack eventually ends at the top of Zipa-De-Do-Da Buttress near an exfoliation boulder. Scramble around the left side of the boulder (3rd) to flat ground. From the back side of Zipa-De-Do-Da Buttress, descend to the right side of the buttress and down 3rd class boulders to the base of the buttress.

Essential Gear

Quickdraws (a half dozen or more), a small rack with cams to 2" and slings. Don't forget a 60 meter rope! The climb is a full 50 meter plus pitch.

Miscellaneous Info

If you have information about this route that doesn't pertain to any of the other sections, please add it here.