Buggery On The High Seas

Approach

Follow the established trail to the base of the South Face. Once at the base, skirt along the edge of the South Face for approximately 250 yards. The route begins just as the "trail" descends again.

Route Description

'Buggery' was put up in July 2000 (F.F.A Roger Hayashi and Dave Daly) as a direct variation of 'Whiskey Bill' (5.7). Buggery is in between 'Whiskey Bill' and 'Mule Train' on the South Face, up a smooth, steep slab. Locate a line of bolts 25 feet left of a large crack. The first bolt is reached by frictioning up 5.8 moves onto a small sloping ledge. Upon clipping the first bolt, the next series of moves requires solid smearing and an awkward mantle past a sloping dish (5.10c). Continue up past two more bolts on small rounded edges (5.10b). After passing the 3rd bolt, the route eases up to moderate terrain and passes the 4th bolt. The route steepens again by edging up 5.9 rock, passing up three more bolts along the way. The 1st pitch ends a full 60 meters at a two bolt belay (under a small overhang). Start the 2nd pitch by yarding up over the belay onto a "jug-fest" of chickenheads(5.6)! Sling chickenheads the next 50 feet before reaching the first bolt. Continue to the 2nd bolt (5.7). The last two bolts are shared as the route merges left with 'Whiskey Bill'. Belay at the end of W.B's 3rd pitch at some HUGE, green Metolious rap hangers. Continue up Whiskey Bill for two more pitches (pro to 1/2") before finishing at Wamello's summit.

Essential Gear

Draws, gear to 1/2" (small cams) and slings. Be sure to carry a 60 meter rope for the first pitch.