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Bettlerkarspitze
Mountain/Rock

Bettlerkarspitze

 
Bettlerkarspitze

Page Type: Mountain/Rock

Location: Tirol, Austria, Europe

Lat/Lon: 47.43073°N / 11.61766°E

Object Title: Bettlerkarspitze

Activities: Hiking, Mountaineering

Season: Spring, Summer, Fall

Elevation: 7503 ft / 2287 m

 

Page By: selinunte01

Created/Edited: Jul 28, 2010 / Aug 16, 2010

Object ID: 642800

Hits: 1803 

Page Score: 81.18%  - 13 Votes 

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Overview

 
Bettlerkarspitze
Bettlerkarspitze as seen from Montscheinspitze


What a strange name: Bettlerkarspitze - the beggar cirque peak.

Standing between Falzthurntal in the east and Eng valley in the west, Bettlerkarspitze is one of the main summits of Sonnjoch ridge within Karwendel .

Starting at Westliches Lamsenjoch in the south, Sonnjoch subridge runs in south - north direction and ends at Plumsjoch, north of Bettlerkarspitze.

Our summit has three main ridges:

  • the north ridge to Plumsjoch sees the main ascent route

  • the south ridge to Schaufelspitze which is a great traverse route

  • the east ridge to Falzthurnjoch



  • All three ridges require climbing up to UIAA grade III. This is why Bettlerkarspitze is not visited very often. More correctly I should say that Bettlerkarspitze main summit is rarely climbed. Take for example the north ridge normal route: 30 meters below the summit there is a mean little overhang (3 meters high) at the very narrow ridge. This part of the route cannot be bypassed. The east side of the ridge is a perpendicular rockface down to Plumskar, the west side of the ridge is even more difficult to climb.

    When I tried first to summit Bettlerkarspitze I had several “Go´s” until I managed to overcome that crux. Next time I brought a rope which came in handy for the descent. Nowadays there is a fixed rope with thick fat knots so it is more a matter of arm strength to overcome this grade III - crux.

    Nevertheless there is a Bettlerkarspitze hiking summit, too. About 150 meters lower, with a summit cross and red-white-red markings. The trail from there up to the main summit is marked with washed out red dots and some cairns.

    I like sitting on top of Bettlerkarspitze on a summer afternoon after a traverse, e.g. coming from Schaufelspitze or from Montscheinspitze or from Kompar summit, watching a little thunderstorm passing by in the west, the warm sun on the face, looking down to deep blue Achensee and fancying a cool Weißbier on the terrace of nice Plumsjochhütte which will definitely become true one hour later.


    Getting There

     
    Bettlerkarspitze
    Bettlerkarspitze


    Main northern trailhead is Hagelhütten near the end of Eng valley.

    You reach Eng valley by car

  • from Munich via Bad Tölz, Lenggries, Fall, Vorderriß, Hinterriß and the toll road to Engalmen until you arrive at Hagelhütten (parking area)

  • from Innsbruck via Seefeld, Mittenwald, Wallgau, toll road to Vorderriß, Hinterriß and the toll road to Engalmen until you arrive at Hagelhütten

  • from Garmisch-Partenkirchen via Klais, Wallgau, toll road to Vorderriß, Hinterriß and the toll road to Engalmen until you arrive at Hagelhütten



  • You can reach Eng valley from Munich by rail and bus, too. Check this possibility here.

    Main southern trailhead is Pletzachalm or Gernalm near Pertisau / Achensee.

  • by car on highway A 12, Innsbruck - Rosenheim exit Wiesing / Achsee - Maurach - Pertisau - toll road to Pletzachalm / Gernalm

  • from Munich on highway A 8 direction Salzburg to exit Holzkirchen - Tegernsee - Achenpass - Achenkirch - Maurach - Pertisau - toll road to Pletzachalm / Gernalm

  • by train, descending at Jenbach railway station; check the ÖBB schedule here , then change to Achenseebahn for Pertisau



  •  
    Bettlerkarspitze
    Summit view to the north
    Bettlerkarspitze
    Bettlerkarspitze north ridge
     
    Bettlerkarspitze
    Summit view to Plumskar, Falzthurnjoch



    Route Overview

    There are several routes to Bettlerkarspitze, some of them require at least mastering UIAA grade III.

    Main mountaineer routes are:

    1. North ridge route: Normal route from Plumsjoch to the hiking summit, some rock scramble and the crux (UIAA grade III, now with rope) to the main summit

    2. Northeast route: Plumsjoch, Plumskar and the connecting ridge Falzthurnjoch to Bettlerkarspitze; easy, mostly off-trail but one part UIAA grade III at the ridge

    3. Traverse Schaufelspitze - Bettlerkarspitze: grade II, long, you have to climb Schaufelspitze first

    4. Traverse Falzthurnjoch - Bettlerkarspitze; grade III (one part), interesting off-trail epic, you have to struggle up off-trail to Falzthurnjoch first



     
    Bettlerkarspitze
    Bettlerkarspitze (left) and Schaufelspitze (right)
    Bettlerkarspitze
    Below the hiking summit
     
    Bettlerkarspitze
    North ridge with hiking summit



    Red Tape & Accommodation

     
    Bettlerkarspitze
    Plumsjochhütte


    Red Tape


    Bettlerkarspitze is part of the “Alpenpark Karwendel”, an important and strictly protected national park.

    There is no entrance fee for the park but many regulations to follow.

    There is a National Park Information Center at Hinterriß. Information panels, starting at the parking area of Engalmen, show some interesting features of the Alpenpark Karwendel.

    Accommodation


    Camping is not allowed within Alpenpark Karwendel.

    Motorhomes and caravans are tolerated at the parking area of Engalmen.

    Food and lodging can be fount at

  • Alpengasthof Eng

  • Engalmen

  • Hinterriß

  • Pertisau

  • Maurach

  • Pletzachalm

  • Gernalm



  • Maurach and Pertisau offer campgrounds, too.

    Mountain hut

  • Plumsjochhütte




  • Gear & Mountain Conditions

     
    Bettlerkarspitze
    The ex crux


    Bettlerkarspitze is a summer and autumn hike.

    The normal route from Plumsjoch can easily be combined with a mountainbike tour to Plumsjoch, starting at Hagelhüttn or at Pletzachalm / Gernalm / Pertisau.

    For the hiking summit you need normal hiking gear.

    The main summit requires scramble capacity up to UIAA grade II (traverse Falzthurnjoch - Bettlerkarspitze; traverse Schaufelspitze - Bettlerkarspitze) and nerves / arm strength for the ex crux, now secured with a thick rope.

    Current Weather:


    Maps & Guide Books

     
    Bettlerkarspitze
    Bettlerkarspitze as seen from the Schaufelspitze northwest ascent



    Guide Books


    Heinrich Klier, Fritz März, und Walter Klier
    Karwendelgebirge. Alpenvereinsführer alpin: Ein Führer für Täler, Hütten und Berge.
    Bergverlag Rother
    2005

    Bernd Eberle, Peter Mair, Mike Rutter, und Ralf Sussmann
    Kletterführer Karwendel: Alpine Ziele & Klettergärten incl. Martinswand
    Panico Alpinverlag
    1. june 2004

    Maps


    Alpenvereinskarte
    Karwendelgebirge, Mitte
    Scale 1 : 25.000
    Deutscher Alpenverein
    February 2008

    Alpenvereinskarte
    Karwendelgebirge, Ost
    Scale 1 : 25.000
    Deutscher Alpenverein
    December 2005

    Images

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    BettlerkarspitzeBettlerkarspitzeBettlerkarspitzeBettlerkarspitzeBettlerkarspitze