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Breitgrieskarspitze
Mountain/Rock

Breitgrieskarspitze

 
Breitgrieskarspitze

Page Type: Mountain/Rock

Location: Tirol, Austria, Europe

Lat/Lon: 47.40758°N / 11.37809°E

Object Title: Breitgrieskarspitze

Activities: Hiking, Mountaineering, Trad Climbing, Aid Climbing, Scrambling, Skiing

Season: Spring, Summer, Fall, Winter

Elevation: 8491 ft / 2588 m

 

Page By: selinunte01

Created/Edited: Aug 3, 2014 / Aug 20, 2014

Object ID: 907508

Hits: 1201 

Page Score: 78.27%  - 9 Votes 

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Overview

 
Breitgrieskarspitze
Closeup of Breitgrieskarspitze as seen from the north


The western part of Karwendel main ridge would be a rather lonely part of Karwendel mountains without this man, Anton Gaugg, a local from Scharnitz. He decided in the beginning of the 1950th to build a mountain hut above Scharnitz on the slopes of Pleisenspitze just near the timber line, the today Pleisenhütte, to give accommodation to mountaineers.

He was one of the pioneers of mountaineering within Karwendel ranges and in remebrance the trail between Pleisenhütte and Karwendelhaus was named after him: Anton(or Toni) Gaugg Höhenweg.

This marvelous trail crosses several cirques and cols, is partly secured with steel ropes, requires some rock scrambling and passes the summit of Breitgrieskarspitze just 80 m below the summit cross. You should think that consequently Breitgrieskarspitze receives a lot of visitors. Funnily enough this is not the case.

Breitgrieskarspitze is located within the main Karwendel ridge, which is also called “Hinterautal – Vomper Range” after two main valleys within Karwendel. The summit has a huge perpendicular rock face to the northeast down to Neunerkar cirque which is embraced:

  • first by the northeast ridge of Breitgrieskarspitze down to Breitgrieskarscharte, a huge col between our summit and Kleine Seekarspitze to the east or Bockkarspitze to the northeast, which hosts an emergency bivouac (I do not wish anybody an emergency stay in this tin can);

  • second by the northwest ridge to the neighbouring summit of Große Riedlkarspitze.


  • The southwest arête of Breitgrieskarspitze, the so called “Blassengrat” separates Hinterkar cirque to the west from Breitgrieskar to the east. Toni Gaugg Höhenweg crosses Blassengrat at about 2500 m. You follow Blassengrat the last 80 m up to the summit, a short fun scramble with great looks and views.

    Maybe the lack of signs and markings cause this small interest.

    Breitgrieskarspitze was first summited by Hermann von Barth on August 14th, 1870.


    Getting There

     
    Breitgrieskarspitze
    Breitgrieskarspitze as seen from Bäralpl


    The best trailhead for Breitgrieskarspitze is

    Scharnitz

    and the mountain hut(s)

    Pleisenhütte or Karwendelhaus.

    You reach Scharnitz by car:

  • From Munich via highway A 95 to Garmisch-Partenkirchen and road number B 2 to Mittenwald and to Scharnitz.

  • From Kufstein, Innsbruck or Arlberg region follow the highway A 12 (Inntal highway, fee required) to the exit Zirl. At Zirl proceed on road number 177 to Seefeld and Scharnitz.

  • Alternatively follow from Telfs in the Inntal valley the Buchener Straße and on road number L 36 up to Leutasch Gasse. Go on on road number L 75 and 177 to Scharnitz.


  • At the church near Isar bridge take Hinterautalstraße in southern direction. After the undergrade passing of the railways you reach a huge parking area to your left (fees!).
    300 m further on there is another small parking area after the bridge across river Isar to your right.

    Scharnitz can be reached with railway, too. See the railway schedule here .

    The Pleisenhütte ascent follows first Hinterautalstraße to the Wiesenhof inn. Take the forest road to your left at a road junction and stay on that main road (signposts for Pleisenhütte), which zigzags up the southwest slopes of Pleisenspitze. At another road junction take again the left hand road (signposts to Pleisenhütte); this supply road leads up to the mountain hut (about 2,5 to 3 hours from Scharnitz).
    MTB is possible!

     
    Breitgrieskarspitze
    Breitgrieskarspitze (left) and Große Seekarspitze (center) as seen from Pleisenspitze

    The Karwendelhütte ascent from Scharnitz uses the long Karwendeltal road up to Hochalmsattel, the col between Birkkarspitze and Östliche Karwendelspitze where the huge mountain hut is located.

    MTB is nearly a must (otherwise 13 km walk!).

    Start at the small parking area, ascend the road to your left and turn immediately to the right. The road uses the lower slopes of Brunnsteinspitze to enter into Karwendel valley. Go on nearly level or with a very moderate grade to former Larchetalm (unfortunately demolished after a quarrel about how to run this former mountain hut within the National Park of Karwendel) and further on to Anger Alm. After passing Anger Alm meadows the road ascends with some switchbacks to Hochalmsattel. Take the right hand road at the Hochalmsattel road junction to reach Karwendelhaus.

    Karwendelhaus can be reached, too, from

  • Hinterriß via Johannistal and Kleiner Ahornboden (MTB possible)

  • Falkenhütte via Kleiner Ahornboden

  • Hallerangerhaus via Kastenalm, Birkkar, Schlauchkarsattel (long and demanding traverse)




  • Main Routes Overview



     
    Breitgrieskarspitze
    Breitgrieskarspitze and Hinterkar cirque as seen from Anton-Gaugg-Höhenweg


    Breitgrieskarspitze normal route follows the Toni Gaugg Höhenweg from Pleisenhütte or from Karwendelhaus.

    From Pleisenhütte first follow the trail in the direction of Pleisenspitze summit. Take the right hand trail (Toni Gaugg Höhenweg) at the first trail junction 1/4 hour after leaving Pleisenhütte. The trail traverses first the south ridge of Pleisenspitze, enters and traverses the lower parts of Mitterkar cirque and ascends the south ridge of Gauggturm, a huge and seldomly visited summit of Larchetkatspitze south ridge. After a short traverse on the east slope of Gauggturm the trail descends steeply down a scree filled chute to reach the lower parts of Hinterkar cirque.

    The route is first nearly level and ascends later the lower parts of the south ridge of Große Ridlkarspitze. At a height of about 2300 m the route, which is now marked only with cairns some red dots and some red and white poles, enters upper Hinterkar cirque and travels up to the Breitgrieskarspitze southwest slopes.

    After a steep ascent you reach the connecting ridge between Breitgrieskarspitze and Große Ridlkarspitze. The route regains the southwest slopes and overcomes some steep rocks with the help of (in 2014 still old and used) fixed steel ropes. You gain a ledge which leads you to the culmination point of Toni Gaugg Höhenweg on the south ridge of Breitgrieskarspitze.

    Breitgrieskarspitze
    Breitgrieskarspitze with Breitgrieskarscharte (left)
    Breitgrieskarspitze
    Summit ridge
    Breitgrieskarspitze
    Near Breitgrieskarscharte


    From Karwendelhaus take the first very steep trail, starting at the winter shelter of Karwendelhaus and leading in the direction of Schlauchkar and Birkkarspitze. After some rock scramble with fixed steel ropes the trail traverses the southeast slopes of Hochalmkreuz. At the second trail junction take the right hand trail (signs to Brendelsteig and Toni Gaugg Höhenweg) and traverse the lower parts of Schlauchkar cirque. Follow the narrow trail below the towering northern rock faces of Ödkarspitzen and ascend the trail up to the ridge crest of the north ridge of Westliche Ödkarspitze. There are some rock scrambling parts with steel ropes to overcome.

    At the ridge crest (about 2040 m high) pay attention: Brendelsteig goes straight on on that ridge, don´t follow that trail. There is a trail junction and a yellow signpost “Toni Gaugg Höhenweg” hidden by some dwarf pines. Take this right hand trail which immediately descends very steep rocks from the ridge crest down into huge Marxenkar cirque. Again steel ropes help you down that bit of the route.

    The trail traverses the huge and broad Marxenkar and ascends into another higher cirque west of Marxenkar: Seekarl. Arriving there the trail heads up south to Seekarlscharte, a small col between Kleine Seekarspitze and Bockkarspitze. A short descend brings you down to Breitgrieskarscharte with the emergency shelter.

    The trail now heads east-south-east to reach the huge north and northeast rock face of Breitgrieskarspitze. Ascend first the scree field and later some easy rocks up to the culmination point of Toni Gaugg Höhenweg on top of Breitgrieskarspitze south ridge.

    The last 80 meters to the summit, starting at the culmination point of Toni Gaugg Höhenweg, are without markings or signs. Just follow the ridge crest or ascend the ridge a bit left (on the west side) of the ridge on some scree and easy rocks to the summit cairn.

    Breitgrieskarspitze
    Breitgrieskarspitze north face
    [
    Breitgrieskarspitze
    Breitgrieskarspitze (center) and Kleine Seekarspitze (left)
    ]
    Breitgrieskarspitze
    Breitgrieskarspitze as seen from Vogelkarspitze ascent


    Other hiking routes, most of them not marked and signposted, old hunter trails, not maintained, strenuous:

  • Scharnitz - Hinterau valley - Hinterkar cirque - Toni-Gaugg-Höhenweg: the route starts near the confluence Hinterkar creek with Isar river

  • Scharnitz - Hinterau valley - Breitgrieskar cirque - Toni-Gaugg-Höhenweg: the route starts at the junction of Isar river with Breitgrieskar creek

  • Scharnitz - Karwendel valley - Anger Alm - Marxenkar cirque - Toni-Gaugg-Höhenweg



  • Climbing routes

  • Northwest buttress, grade IV-, bad rock

  • East arete, grade V- climb

  • Blassengrat ridge, grade III / IV

  • Southeast buttress grade VIII climb




  • Red Tape & Accommodation

    Red Tape

    Breitgrieskarspitze is part of the “Alpenpark Karwendel”, an important and strictly protected national park.

    There is no entrance fee for the park but many regulations to follow. Please respect the following rules in the National Park:



    There is a National Park Information Center at Hinterriß.

    The parking areas at Scharnitz require a parking fee!

    Pleisenspitze
    Pleisenhütte in winter
    Breitgrieskarspitze
    Emergency shelter at Breitgrieskarscharte


    Accommodation

    Camping is not allowed within Alpenpark Karwendel.

    Food and lodging can be found at

  • Scharnitz

  • Mittenwald

  • Leutasch



  • Mountain huts

  • Pleisenhütte

  • Karwendelhaus







  • Gear & Mountain Condition

     
    Breitgrieskarspitze
    Breitgrieskarspitze as seen from the north


    Breitgrieskarspitze is mainly a late spring, summer and autumn undertaking.

    For the hiking routes you need good hiking gear, good shoes and lots of water (nearly no water in the higher reagions of that mountain).

    Anton-Gaugg-Höhenweg is partly secured with steel ropes, some rock dcrambling in exposed terrain included. The highest parts of Breitgrieskarspitze can bear some snow fields even in early summer, so take some crampons and ski poles with you.
    The summit ridge requires some grade I scramble.

    All other hiking ascents (Breitgrieskar cirque, Hinterkar cirque, Anger Alm - Marxenkar cirque) are long, strenuous and mainly unmarked. These trails are not maintained.

    Current Weather:



    Maps & Guide Books

     
    Breitgrieskarspitze
    Breitgrieskarspitze (center) as seen from the west, Große Seekarspitze to the left


    Maps

    Alpenvereinskarte 1 : 25.000
    Blatt Nr. 5/2, Mittleres Blatt
    Online Shop Deutscher Alpenverein

    together with

    Alpenvereinskarte 1 : 25.000
    Blatt Nr. 5/1, Westliches Blatt
    Online Shop Deutscher Alpenverein

    Bayerische Topographische Karte 1 : 50.000
    Karwendel, UK 50/51
    Landessamt für Vermessung und Geoinformation, München


    Guide Books

    Walter Klier
    Alpenvereinsführer Karwendel alpin
    Bergverlag Rother, München

    for rock climbing:

    Walter Klier
    Alpenvereinsführer extrem
    Bergverlag Rother, München
    (out of stock)

    Available only in German

    Images

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