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Brana
Mountain/Rock

Brana

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Brana

Page Type: Mountain/Rock

Location: Kamnik-Savinja Alps, Slovenia, Europe

Lat/Lon: 46.35419°N / 14.58834°E

Object Title: Brana

Activities: Hiking, Mountaineering, Trad Climbing, Ice Climbing, Mixed, Scrambling

Season: Spring, Summer, Fall, Winter

Elevation: 7391 ft / 2253 m

 

Page By: Gangolf Haub, Bor

Created/Edited: May 3, 2005 / Feb 4, 2014

Object ID: 154017

Hits: 10085 

Page Score: 93.35%  - 42 Votes 

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Overview

Brana seen from Kamnik Saddle
Brana seen from Kamniško Sedlo

At 2253 m Brana is often considered to be only a secondary peak among the Kamnik Alps. embedded centrally in the range it pales in height against its more famous brethren Grintovec, Kočna or Skuta. However, it holds a centrall position on the ridge which separates Logarska Dolina from Kamniška Bistrica with tremendous drops on either side. In the south Brana drops with its immense face of Kaptan into Kamniška Bistrica valley. It is covered abundantly with vegetation and provides a difficult scrambling ascent to the mountain. Above Kaptan's top a broad and easy south ridge takes you to the summit.

To the north you find Logarska Dolina valley, one of the highlights of the Kamnik Alps from which the mountain and its neighbours rises in several steep and giant steps. The easiest ascent, the normal route, negotiates these steps towards Kamniško sedlo, the saddle which separates Brana from its eastern neighbour, Planjava. From there one hour of hiking along a steep, exposed but protected trail takes you to the top of the mountain. It is considered one of the easiest and shortest ascents in the Kamnik Alps, which can be easily done on a long day from the valley floor. In unstable weather, in foggy, wet or snowy conditions the whole route can become a trap. In rainy conditions the lower slopes attract rockfall from the Brana North Face, while some of the polished slabs right beneath Kamniško sedlo can become downright slippery. In snow conditions the upper ridge traverse can only be done with proper equipment. Due to the many vertical sections a false step can prove lethal.

Brana (E and N face) from...
 
Brana seen from Krvavec group...
 
Brana (2.253 mtrs)
 

To the west of Brana the Kotliči notch separates it from Turska gora and the western part of the Kamnik Alps. The traverse of both mountains is a popular means of accessing Brana. Even more deserving, froman alpinistic view, is the complete traverse of the west-east ridge from Kočna across Grintovec, Skuta, Turska Gora, Brana, Planjava and Ojstrica.

By borut:
Brana has three faces:
  • The tall, steep and awesome west face drops from Blek, the summital basin, into the Kotliški Graben ravine.
  • The east face, a confusion of pillars and gullies rises above the Pastirji meadow.
  • Unfortunately statistically shadowed, the Brana north face quite expressly drops upon the Okrešelj meadow.

Brana summit (2.253m)
 
Brana
 
Shadows
 


  • Alpinistic ascents are most popular on the east face (for instance the upper pillars, or the Bos gully).
  • The west face offers very attractive, but difficult routes.
  • The southern slopes (Kaptan) are mainly done along a summer scramble (tricky orientation), or the often avalanchous Bobnar gully in winter.

360° Summit Panorama

360° summit panorama from Brana

Getting There

Logar Valley
Logarska Dolina and Kamniško Sedlo

Logarska Dolina
  • From Kamnik
    • Take road 225 to Krivčevo.
    • Switch to 924 north to Luče.
    • Switch to 428 direction Paulitschsattel / Pavličevo sedlo.
    • At Setstre Logar drive into Logarska dolina until its end.
  • From Bad Eisenkappel (Austria)
    • Take B82 to Bad Vellach
    • After the resort turn left onto the narrow road to Paulitschsattel / Pavličevo sedlo
    • Cross the Slovenian border onto 428 direction Luče
    • At Setstre Logar drive into Logarska Dolina until its end.


Kamniška Bistrica
  • From Kamnik
    • Take 225 to Stahovica.
    • Turn onto 923 into Kamniška Bistrica and drive to its very end

Red Tape

Stubbornness
Fire Salamander stubbornly climbing my boot

  • Unless signalized (barrier, signpost), and upon your own responsibility, you can use forest roads which are visible on maps (these roads are mainly maintained for lumbering and hut cable station access purposes).
  • Fishing & hunting is regulated.
  • Wild camping and open fires are not allowed.
  • The Kamnik-Savinja Alps are part of the Natura 2000 program.
  • The Logar valley (Logarska dolina) is a Landscape Parc and there is a reasonable fee for the road up the valley, in the summer months during the daytime.

Accommodation

The genral place to look for accommodation in Slovenia is www.slovenia.info. However, accommodation is a bit tricky to find there as accommodation is sorted by regions, three of which touch in the Kamnik Alps region (Central Slovenia, Savinjska and Gorenjska).
Camping

Weather Conditions



Maps & Books

Maps


  • Grintovici
    PZS: Planinska Zveza Slovenije
    1:25000
    Shop
  • Kamniško - Savinjske Alpe
    PZS: Planinska Zveza Slovenije
    1:50000
    Shop
  • Klopeiner See / Karawanken Ost / Steiner Alpen
    Kompass Map WK65
    1:50000
    ISBN: 978-3-85491-073-2

Books


  • Vodnik Kamniško-Savinjske Alpe
    V. Habjan, J. Drab, A. Poljanec, A. Stritar
    PLANINSKI VODNIKI - Slovenija
    ISBN: 978-9-61615-652-3
  • Mountaineering in Slovenia
    Tine Mihelič
    Sidarta Guides
    ISBN: 961-6027-36-0
  • Karawanken und Steiner Alpen
    Helmut Lang
    Rother Verlag
    ISBN: 978-3-7633-4424-6
  • Klettersteige Julische Alpen, Steiner Alpen, Karawanken, Karnischer Hauptkamm
    Hanns Heindl
    Rother Verlag
    ISBN: 3-7633-3372-x

External Links

Brana east face page (alpine climbs)

Images