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Brenta Alta
Mountain/Rock

Brenta Alta

 
Brenta Alta

Page Type: Mountain/Rock

Location: Trento, Italy, Europe

Lat/Lon: 46.16150°N / 10.89460°E

Object Title: Brenta Alta

Activities: Trad Climbing, Aid Climbing

Season: Summer

Elevation: 9711 ft / 2960 m

 

Page By: Gabriele Roth

Created/Edited: Feb 21, 2004 / Sep 14, 2006

Object ID: 152344

Hits: 8947 

Page Score: 84.27%  - 18 Votes 

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Overview

huge rock massif between the Bocca di Brenta and Campanil Basso

south side is a wall divided in 3 steps by 2 very big ledges
west side looks like an organ (many pipes) and is divided in 3 big steps by 2 ledges (on the lower one the "sentiero delle bocchette centrali" runs)
north side is a high, strange, complex but amazing wall full of channels
north-east side is one of the best and difficult walls of the whole group

Brenta group
 


Not often climbed, the normal route is too difficult for hikers.
Rock is always very fine

Routes

on this summit more than 40 routes are waiting for amuse (or stress and strike) the climbers, here the most important ones

UIAAFrenchUSA
F2
PD3 - 4
3°inf - 3° - 3° supAD5 - 5.2
4° inf - 4° - 4° supD5.3 - 5.5
5° inf - 5° - 5° supTD5.6 - 5.8
6° inf - 6° - 6° supED5.9 - 5.11
EX5.11a - 5.11b


south side (see routes-photo)
- normal route - 400m - PDinf (1 pass II) - short chimneys and walls
- south edge (Madonnino edge - Prati-Miori) - 400m - AD sup (TD if straight) - first step is wonderful and elegant (D on the routes-photo)
- south diedre (Detassis) - 400m - TD inf (E on the routes-photo)
- south wall (Agostini-Platter) - 400m - AD - interesting and various

west side (see routes-photo)
- west fissure (Graffer-Bianchi) - 250m - TD - ends on the big shoulder (C on the routes-photo)
- west wall (Giovannini-Zanini) - 400m - TD - the straightest to the summit (B on the routes-photo)
- west wall (Agostini-Steger) - 400m - AD sup - amusing (A on the routes-photo)

north side
- north-west wall (Ostler) - 300m - AD - complex but amazing
- north east gorge (Klien-Ottahal) - 300m - PD - serious for snow and not good rock - the most logical climb from the Bocchetta del Campanile Basso
- north east pillar (Livanos) - 400m - TD sup - very fine
- big northern diedre (Zucchi-Alippi) - 450m - ED inf - very fine and amusing

north-north east edge (Gogna-Anghileri) - 470m - ED - strong way

north-east side
- north-east wall (Detassis-Giordani-Battistata) - 500m - ED inf - wonderful, the finest of the whole Brenta Group (G on the routes-photo)
- north-east diedre (Oggioni-Aiazzi) - 450m - TD sup - strong but not amusing (F on the routes-photo)
- east-north-east chimneys (Graffer) - 450m - AD - various and interesting


Getting There

for all climbs the starting point are Rifugio Brentei (2182m) or Rifugio Pedrotti (2491 m)
you can get it starting from Madonna di Campiglio (1515 m), by car or taxi-service to Rifugio Valsinella (1513 m).
on foot : path 317 - to Rif. Casinei, then path 318 : 2 h walk from Vallesinella you get the Rif.Brentei
in 1 more hour, along the wonderful path of the Bocca di Brenta you can get the Rif.Pedrotti

Red Tape

natural park

When To Climb

Best month for climbing are from July to September
In August the Huts are normally very crowded with hikers and weather is not so fine ... in the afternoon often it comes to rain

Avoid to climb if weather is not good

Brenta Alta is almost never crowded, or, better, is often deserted, so, even in august you can be alone on walls and summit


Camping

Sant' Antonio di Mavignola
if you use a tent near the Brentei hut (a lot of wonderful meadows there) you'll get no problems at all :)
near the Rif.Pedrotti meadows are little but you can do the same thing :)

Photos

add here your pics please, I'll create new sections to maintain them.

Images