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Torre di Brenta
Mountain/Rock

Torre di Brenta

 
Torre di Brenta

Page Type: Mountain/Rock

Location: Trento, Italy, Europe

Lat/Lon: 46.16770°N / 10.89500°E

Object Title: Torre di Brenta

Activities: Trad Climbing

Season: Summer

Elevation: 9888 ft / 3014 m

 

Page By: Gabriele Roth

Created/Edited: Feb 24, 2004 / Nov 30, 2006

Object ID: 152363

Hits: 7471 

Page Score: 82.48%  - 15 Votes 

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Overview

At the end of the day
Torre di Brenta is the one on the right side of the pic
A huge tower growing up from Sfulmini glacier : the highest summit of Sfulmini Chain.

Its summit ridge is long and thin and ends with two sharp edges that divide the mountain in two walls that look like showels.

A big legde crosses the wall in the mid. (can get it on its east side using the "Bocchette Centrali" ladders)

A fine, amusing normal route allows a good experience for beginners and an easy (PD) coming down.

North wall has many big chimneys and, of course, many wings that make it look like a colonnade.

South-west wall is similar but more steep and compatc with its red rock.

South-east wall is a yellow leaning out wall.


Routes overview

North wall rock always very fine
 
Torre di Brenta - routes
 
  • normal route - 300 m - PD - amusing and various
  • Leonardi - 300 m - D sup - the finest on this side
  • north pillar (Alimonta) - TD - amusing
  • Benedetti - 120 m from the ledge - AD inf
  • Graffer edge - 120 m from the ledge - AD sup - amusing
  • Castiglioni - 120 m from the ledge - chimney climbing - D
  • Adang chimney - 250 m - AD - classic !
  • Treptow chimneys - 250 m - AD - classic !

  • East edge
  • Castiglioni-Pisoni - 350 m - D sup - very fine and amusing, at half way you must wait till hikers (on the Bocchette Centrali) pass away to go on :)

    South-east wall
  • Armani - 220 m - TD - you climb in leaning out rocks

    South wall
  • Garbari - normal route from Bocchetta Alta degli Sfulmini - Ad - very fine

    South west wall
  • Detassis-Rizieri - 180 m - TD sup - wild environment
  • Detassis-Giordani & co. - D sup (first pitch 5°, hard and wet) fine and smart

    West ridge
  • Armani - 300 m - D - one of the finest - difficult to approach (see When to Climb)

    some pics of the normal route

     
    first section - under the big...
     
     
    first section - under the big...
     
     
    the chimney just over the big...
     
     
    the wall under the summit ridge
     
     
    the wall under the summit ridge
     

    Getting There

    for all climbs the starting point is Rifugio Alimonta

    you can get it starting from Madonna di Campiglio (1515 m)
    by car or taxi-service to Rifugio Valsinella (1513 m).
    on foot : path 317 - to Rif. Casinei, path 318, 2 h walk to Brentei
    then 1 more hour to reach the Alimonta Hut

    All climbs can be started as well from Rif.Brentei

    Red Tape

    natural park

    When to Climb

    july - september
    in august and september, due to gletscher shrinking, approaching the rocks of the north wall and WNW ridge can be very difficult or impossible without ice-axe and crampons that is an out of mind thing in this site :)
    out of season not recommended - refuges are closed and the site is quite unhospital at night

    Camping

    Sant' Antonio di Mavignola
    if you use a tent near the Brentei hut (a lot of wonderful meadows there) you'll get no problems at all :)

    Images