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Cima Brenta
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Cima Brenta

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Cima Brenta

Page Type: Mountain/Rock

Location: Trentino, Italy, Europe

Lat/Lon: 46.18110°N / 10.90080°E

Object Title: Cima Brenta

Activities: Mountaineering, Trad Climbing, Ice Climbing, Mixed, Scrambling

Season: Spring, Summer

Elevation: 10334 ft / 3150 m

 

Page By: alpinbeta

Created/Edited: Aug 5, 2005 / Jan 31, 2017

Object ID: 154458

Hits: 12586 

Page Score: 93.73%  - 44 Votes 

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Overview

Cima Brenta 3150 m




Cima Brenta 3150 m is a powerful and massive complex of dolomite rock which stands at the Northern end of Brenta Central Range, to the South of Bocca di Tuckett. It's Brenta Dolomites second highest summit and lies in the middle of its namesake group.
Cima Brenta is connected by the South Ridge to the Spallone dei Massodi, while the shortest North Ridge falls on Bocca di Tuckett. From the Eastern summit, the highest one, it detaches another powerful ridge facing West and connecting the main summit to the Western summit at 3122 m of altitude. Here the ridge forks in two, giving origin to the West and North-West sides, well characterized by the two long ridges: the West ridge forms a colossal rampart on the right side of the Valley of Brentei, above Rifugio Brentei, and culminates with Cima Mandron 3040 m and Punte di Campiglio 2969 m and 2876 m.


Brenta Group from La Rosta annotated panoBrenta Group from La Rosta - Ph. Silvia Mazzani


The long, rugged North West ridge connects Cima Brenta to Cima Massari, above Rifugio Tuckett, originating a long succession of fifteen different-looking needles (Torri di Cima Brenta, also known as Torri di Kiene). The two ridges enclose the Upper Brenta glacier (Vedretta di Brenta Superiore).

Brenta group from PaganellaBrenta Group from Paganella - ph. Vid Pogachnik


The Northern aspect of the peak has a markedly different character, at least as long as some vestiges of the snowfields that cover the north and northwest faces remain. To the north a frozen slope descends to lower Vedretta di Brenta, near Bocca di Tuckett.
The Eastern side consists of a large and formidable yellowish wall which drops into the head of Val Perse. Two of the famed trails of the Brenta Group, Bocchette Alte and Sentiero Orsi, cross this face and meet at Bocca di Tuckett, the far end of Cima Brenta's north ridge.

Cima Brenta
Cima Brenta from West - ph. Petr Dràpalìk

Cima Brenta from Scala degli Amici
Cima Brenta from Scala degli Amici, Bocchette Alte - ph. Gijsj



The rock of Cima Brenta is Dolomia Principale, as for the other celebrated peaks of the central part of the group. It tends to form vertical walls with plenty of holds. It is quite abrasive, especially on the less-traveled routes, but otherwise a climber's dream.
Buscaini and Castiglioni in theis guidebook "Dolomiti di Brenta" note that the peak has been known under several different names. Such a case is not uncommon in the Alps. Toponymic order was eventually brought by the publication of an essay by N. Bolognini in 1875.

History

The first ascent took place in August 1871 by the British Douglas Freshfield and Francis Fox Tuckett with the Chamonix guide François Devouassoud, who climbed the upper Vedretta di Brenta on the West side of Cima Brenta.
The route of the first climbers is now rarely followed, in favor of another route which is now considered the Normal route to the top and which is described in the next chapter.

Getting There

The closest town is Madonna di Campiglio.

Road access to Madonna di Campiglio m. 1514

- Coming from A22 Brennero Motorway (direction towards South) exit Trento Centro, then follow the SS 45 towards Riva del Garda and Tione, getting to the village Le Sarche. From here take the SS 237 reaching Ponte Arche and Tione. In Tione turn to right and follow the Val Rendena road getting to Pinzolo and Madonna di Campiglio.

- Coming from A22 Brennero Motorway (direction towards North) exit San Michele Mezzocorona, then take the Val di Non road, getting to Cles, Malé and Dimaro. In Dimaro leave the main road and turn to left on the Val Meledrio road, reaching Folgarida, Passo Campo Carlo Magno and Madonna di Campiglio.

Brenta from Malga di Zambana
Brenta Group from Malga Zambana - Ph. Vid Pogachnik


To approach Cima Brenta from the North one can start from Rifugio Tuckett and climb to Bocca di Tuckett to take Bocchette Alte. To approach from the South the starting points are either Rifugio Brentei or Rifugio Alimonta. All these mountain huts are reachable from Madonna di Campiglio. Refer to the Brenta Group main page for general directions to the area.

From Madonna di Campiglio m. 1514 a level road reachs the parking of Vallesinella (4 km. from Madonna di Campiglio). Pay attention: on Sundays from June 15th to September 21th, from 9.45 to 18.15, and all the days from June 28th to August 31th, same time-table, the road is closed to the private cars. In these periods a minibus-service starting from Madonna di Campiglio is available. In the same period paying parking in Vallesinella (5 euro). By walking in 45 minutes.

Cima Brenta Normal routes

There are two main routes to get the summit of Cima Brenta. Both normal routes present moderate technical difficulties, but require good routefinding ability and have a distinct mountaineering flavor.

- South side Normal route

This route is nowaday the most frequently attended to get the summit of Cima Brenta. Great itinerary, which reaches the second elevation of the Brenta Dolomites, along a route, although easy, always exciting and various. The difficulty does not exceed II+ (UIAA scale), but for security it is recommended to use a rope along some stretches of the route.
The starting point to climb is Rifugio Brentei. From the shelter take the path to Rifugio Alimonta, reaching and passing a bottleneck. After this latter, leave the trail to take the scree on the left, rising to a rocky ramp. This is the start of the route.

The South Face of Cima Brenta
The South face of Cima Brenta


It climbs the ramp, a bit to the left of the edge, then continuing along the edge. You get to an easier ramp, from where diagonally to the right you head towards the obvious ledge above. Once reached the ledge, follow it crossing to the right. This stretch involves overcoming a pair of grooves and some exposed passages. You get to the base of a large gully, which has yellowish high walls on the left. Keep the right of the gully and climb the first rocks, getting the base of a sloping gray wall, very carved.

Cima Brenta higher S wall...
Cima Brenta higher S wall


The climb, grading UIAA II degree, allows you to reach a rocky and debris ramp. Follow it reaching another ledge. Traverse rightward on the ledge, reaching the starting point of the ending rock amphitheater.
Climb up the amphitheater, choosing the easier route. This brings you to the summit ridge that shortly leads to the summit.

North side Normal route

Instead, nowadays, most climbers reach the summit via the normal route from the north, which is a relatively short detour from Cengia Garbari (Garbari Ledge), which is part of the via ferrata "Bocchette Alte".

From Refuge Tuckett and Sella take the path n. 303 leading us to a crossroads: on the right we have the "Path S.O.S.A.T." (low 305), on the left the "Path Dallagiacoma" (315). Proceeding on the smooth rock slabs we arrive at the bottom of Vedretta di Brenta inf. The Vedretta second season has several aspects, but also, as almost all the alpine glaciers, affected by the climate and tends to shrink more and more.

this is the steep view down...
Vedretta di Brenta inferiore glacier


We rise along the glacier (an axe can be useful) up to Bocca di Tuckett m. 2648 where we find the path 305, also known as "Via delle Bocchette". From the pass we follow the right path, dedicated to Enrico Pedrotti, who begins to rise provided of iron equipment. We're going up the great northern shoulder of Cima Brenta. Continuing finally we come out on the so-called "Cengia Garbari", a ledge a little narrow and rocky. We walk almost the entire ledge until, before it shrink and increases its difficulties, we will notice a little higher up the trail marks. We are at about 2.955 meters (2 hours from Refuge Tuckett). Following the trail signs and cairns we begin to climb a debris gully, rising about 40 meters. Soon we head to the right to reach a ledge. From here we take another steeper rock gully, but with numerous holds, always following the cairns. The climb is elementary climb but it must be done with caution. After about 80 meters we arrive shortly below the summit ridge still not visible. We turn left, ignoring the cairns on the right, getting shortly on a notch: in front of us we have the summit and just below a snowy saddle, we must reach this latter with a short descent and go beyond it. Passed the slender ridge we follow the cairns again that lead us to climb the last stretch, almost a path, then get to the top ( 1 hour from Cengia Garbari), where we find a cross and the summit book.

near the summit we had this...
Summit


The snow routes should be approached with utmost care in the current conditions. The retreat of the snowfields has exposed lots of unstable detritus, making the snow chutes the theater of frequent rockfall. The shrinking of Vedretta Nord, in particular, has affected the normal route from the north, which crosses its top.

Some other twenty major routes reach the summit of Cima Brenta. They are described in Dolomiti di Brenta by G. Buscaini and E. Castiglioni.

Red Tape

Logo of Parco Naturale Adamello - Brenta
 

No fees no permits required. Cima Brenta is part of Adamello-Brenta Natural Park, the largest protected area in Trentino, established in the year 1967. It's located in Western Trentino and with its 620.51 square kilometers includes the mountain groups of Adamello, Presanella and Brenta Dolomites, separated by Val Rendena. Follow the "leave no trace" approach.

When To Climb

The standard climbing season is from July to September. The snow routes, however, may be in condition, if at all, in May-early June, when, however, one may have to contend with avalanche danger. Winter ascents in the Brenta Dolomites are usually much harder than summer ascents.

Huts

- Rifugio Tuckett 2275 m

- Rifugio Brentei 2175 m

- Rifugio Alimonta 2580 m

Vallesinella and Rifugio Tuckett
Rifugio Tuckett
Rifugio Alimonta
Rifugio Alimonta
Rifugio Brentei
Rifugio Brentei

Camping

Camping is available in S. Antonio di Mavignola (Campeggio Faè, +39-0465-507178). The mountain huts that are most convenient for Cima Brenta are Rifugio Tuckett (+39-0465-441226), Rifugio Brentei (+39-0465-441244) and Rifugio Alimonta (+39-0465-440366).

Mountain Conditions

Information about conditions in the park can be obtained by calling the National Park offices in S. Antonio di Mavignola:

Punto informativo - foresteria
Viale Dolomiti di Brenta, 14
S. Antonio di Mavignola
Tel. 0465.507700
infomavignola@parcoadamellobrenta.tn.it

Bibliography

"Dolomiti di Brenta" - Gino Buscaini - Guide dei Monti d'Italia CAI-TCI

Meteo Forecast

METEO TRENTINO

Images