OverviewSecond highest summit and second peak to be climbed, Cima Brenta lies at the center of its namesake group. It is a powerful mass of dolomite rock whose faces are demarcated by four main ridges.
The west ridge connects the main, eastern summit of Cima Brenta to the western summit (3122 m), Cima Mandron (3040 m), and Punte di Campiglio (2969 m and 2876 m). The south aspects of these peaks form the imposing wall that borders Vallone dei Brentei from the north.
The south ridge of Cima Brenta separates this wall from the east face, which drops for over 1000 m into Val Perse. Two of the famed trails of the Brenta Group, Bocchette Alte and Sentiero Orsi, cross this face and meet at Bocca di Tuckett, the far end of Cima Brenta's north ridge.
The northern aspect of the peak has a markedly different character, at least as long as some vestiges of the snowfields that cover the north and northwest faces remain. The long, rugged northwest ridge connects Cima Brenta to Punta Massari (2846 m), going through the fifteen Torri di Cima Brenta (also known as Torri di Kiene).
The rock of Cima Brenta is Dolomia Principale, as for the other celebrated peaks of the central part of the group. It tends to form vertical walls with plenty of holds. It is quite abrasive, especially on the less-traveled routes, but otherwise a climber's dream.
Some twenty major routes reach the summit of Cima Brenta. They are described in Dolomiti di Brenta by G. Buscaini and E. Castiglioni. The first ascent took place in 1871, when Freshfield, Tuckett, and Devouassoud climbed the Vedretta di Brenta Superiore on the west side. This route, however, did not become the standard one. Instead, nowadays, most climbers reach the summit via the normal route from the north, which is a relatively short detour from Cengia Garbari (Garbari Ledge), which is part of the via ferrata "Bocchette Alte."
Another normal route climbs the south face. Both normal routes present moderate technical difficulties, but require good routefinding ability and have a distinct mountaineering flavor. The snow routes should be approached with utmost care in the current conditions. The retreat of the snowfields has exposed lots of unstable detritus, making the snow chutes the theater of frequent rockfall. The shrinking of Vedretta Nord, in particular, has affected the normal route from the north, which crosses its top. The traversal has become much more delicate, and the old rating of UIAA I no longer applies.
Buscaini and Castiglioni note that the peak has been known under several different names. Such a case is not uncommon in the Alps. Toponymic order was eventually brought by the publication of an essay by N. Bolognini in 1875.
Getting ThereTo approach Cima Brenta from the north one can start from Rifugio Tuckett and climb to Bocca di Tuckett to take Bocchette Alte. To approach from the south the starting points are either rifugio Brentei or Rifugio Alimonta. All these mountain huts are reachable from Madonna di Campiglio. Refer to the Brenta Group main page for general directions to the area.
Red TapeNo permits are required. Cima Brenta is part of Parco Naturale Adamello Brenta. Follow the "leave no trace" approach.
When To ClimbThe standard climbing season is from July to September. The snow routes, however, may be in condition, if at all, in May-early June, when, however, one may have to contend with avalanche danger. Winter ascents in the Brenta Dolomites are usually much harder than summer ascents.
CampingCamping is available in S. Antonio di Mavignola (Campeggio Faè, +39-0465-507178). The mountain huts that are most convenient for Cima Brenta are Rifugio Tuckett (+39-0465-441226), Rifugio Brentei (+39-0465-441244) and Rifugio Alimonta (+39-0465-440366).
Mountain ConditionsInformation about conditions in the park can be obtained by calling the National Park offices in S. Antonio di Mavignola:
Punto informativo - foresteria
Viale Dolomiti di Brenta, 14
S. Antonio di Mavignola
Weather forecasts for Trentino.