OverviewCiamarella is the highest point of Valli di Lanzo and the second summit of Alpi Graie Meridionali for the high (first is Charbonel 3752 m). Locally it is called "Úja di Ciamarella", and is very famous for his south side who overlook the Pian della Mussa, this side is 1500 meters high and is made by a lot of small ridges and slopes, it is called "Parete delle Lance" or "Lanze" (wall of the lances). More important for alpinism are the North side, an ice wall 450 meters high, the East ridge, a long snowy ridge with 300 meters shaped and horizontal from the summit and the ONO ridge with his horse-shoe form.
Here we describe the normal route on the south-west side.
In 1 day, from Pian della Mussa - Rifugio Città di Ciriè using the path to Rifugio Gastaldi, reach the Pian dei Morti, from here turn right ascent the Naressa pasture and following the indications reach Pian Gias (2.15 h)
In 2 days, from Rifugio Gastaldi(2659 m) following the horizontal path on N direction, reach the old arrive station of the aerial railway and descent on the rocky slope to Pian Gias (50 min.).
From Pian Gias (2580 m.) ascent a bit on the "rocky glaciers", turn right (N) on the moraine and reach the moraine's ridge, follow the ridge (marks) and approach the Ciamarella Glacier. Proceed on the glacier with a big semicircle on the left to elude crevasse's area, and reach the upper part of the glacier, here it is almost level and without big crevasse, cross it directly to the middle of the big SO face of the summit. Ascend sidelong on the right the debris face to get over the first part of rocks, then turn left in direction of the reddish monolith, get over it on the left and reach the summit (About 4 h from Rifugio Gastaldi and 5.30 h from Rifugio Città di Ciriè, difficulty F).
The SO face is a easy reddish debris slope and there are some tracks, but in particular conditions, with snow or ice, you must be careful.
Ascent route to the summit include glaciers so you need crampons, ice-axe and rope.
DESCENT: Descend on the same route, from Pian Gias is useful, if you don't have to return to Rifugio Gastaldi, to descent directly on the Naressa pasture to Pian della Mussa, in this case pay attention at the end of Pian Gias, leave the snowy slope for the path on the right moraine (hydrographic).
Getting ThereFom Turin,motorway A55 exit Venaria Reale follow indications for Lanzo Torinese and go on through Germagnano and Ceres, here you enter in Val d'Ala, continue passing Ala di Stura and Balme and reach Pian della Mussa (1830 m.) where the road ends (78 km from Turin). Here you find Rifugio Città di Ciriè, or in 2.30 h on a good path, you can reach the Rifugio Gastaldi.
E ridge: A. Castagneri "Toni di Touni" and L. Barale - Oct 22, 1877
ONO ridge: G. Yeld, A. Payot and B. le Greffier - Aug 5, 1878
S wall: G. Rey and A. Castagneri "Toni di Touni" - Sept 11, 1883
N ridge: G. Corrà and M. Ricchiardi - Sept 1, 1887
N wall: E. Ferreri and W. Levi - June 4, 1922
Red TapeThere are no fees or permits.
Pay parking at Pian della Mussa, at the start of the route to Rifugio Gastaldi, there are no limitations for climbing and hiking. No problem for one night free camping, take care of nature as usual!
When To ClimbThe best time is from June or July (depending of snow quantity and conditions) to September.
Mountain ConditionsYou can get whether forecast at this site:
www.regione.piemonte.it official site of the Regione Piemonte
AccomodationsYou can find accommodations in all villages of Valli di Lanzo, at Pian della Mussa you can use Rifugio Città di Ciriè .
Contacts: Rifugio Città di Ciriè phone +39 0123 820008
You can use Rifugio Gastaldi as base for the ascents to: Uja di Ciamarella (3676 m), Albaron di Savoia (3627 m), Bessanese (3604 m), Piccola Ciamarella (3540 m), Punta Chalanson (3466 m), Punta Maria (3302 m.).
Refuge is open from 01/04 to 21/05 and from 1/06 to 17/09
Contacts: Rifugio Gastaldi phone +39 0123 565008 or visit www.rifugiogastaldi.it
Books and Maps- BOOKS
- G. Berruto, L. Fornelli " Guida dei Monti d'Italia - Alpi Graie Meridionali" Club Alpino Italiano/Touring Club Italiano (1980). (Italian)
google books - Guida dei Monti d'Italia - Alpi Graie Meridionali
- IGC- Istituto Geografico Centrale
N° 103, 1:25.000
Rocciamelone Uja Di Ciamarella Le Levanne
- ASF- Alpi senza frontiere / Alps without frontiers (IGN Institute Geographique National)
N° 13, 1:25.000
- IGC- Istituto Geografico Centrale
N° 2, 1:50.000
Valli di Lanzo e Moncenisio
Mountain Rescue phone n°: Italy 118 , France 04 79 05 11 88
Avalanche Bulletin: www.aineva.it
Union of Mountain Guides (Piemonte-Valle d'Aosta) phone n°: +39 011 5171628