OverviewThe “Cima Undici” also called in südtyrol as “Elferkofel” is one of the most wild and lonely peaks of the eastern Dolomites and it appears like a steep ridge of jagged pinnacles, spiers and towers separated by numerous narrow forks, orientated north to south.
The harsh and lonely environment inspires fear, but also unique beauty with an unrivaled charm, both for the mountaineering history of the early pioneers and for the incredible historical events that have occurred here during the WW1.
It overhangs the “Val Fiscalina” with a very elegant pyramid shape and with a succession of rocky couloirs that converge towards the summit that from this side seems only one. The summit consists of two peaks, north 3068m and south 3092m.
On the opposite side (east), its rocky sides lost grandeur next to the neighbors "Monte Popera" and "Croda Rossa". It hosts the hardest climb routes.
The name “Undici”, means the “eleventh” top of Sesto. Some of the peaks of this area are called by the habitants of Val Pusteria, with numbers. Because they indicate the sundial viewed from the village of Sesto; like: "Einserkofel" (one), "Zwolferkofel" (twelve), "Elferkofel" (eleven).
The west side is crossed by a funny trail equipped with chains, called the "sentiero degli Alpini/Alpiniweg", which remains more or less always at the same altitude, that connects the "forcella Giralba" 2431m to "passo della Sentinella" 2717m, across the "forcella Undici" 2650m. The path is also the starting point for the normal routes of the two summits.
On the south side of the mountain was placed a bivouac, called "Ai Mascabroni" 2932m. It's in a secluded and very panoramic location, also useful for those who climb the south summit.
This mountain has been place of fierce fighting for its conquest during te WW1, and today it still hosts remnants of war barracks. As the neighbors mountains it was in the past part of Austrian territory, today it is 100% Italian.
FeaturesThe limits of the mountain are:
From north: “Passo della Sentinella” 2717m
From south: “Forcella Zsigmondy” 2874m
Secondary peaks and notches along its ridge. From south:
“Forcella della Tenda”
“Torrioni di Cima Undici”
“Forcella della Caverna”
“Forcella da Basso”
“Forcella da Col”
“Forcella dal Canton”
“Forcella del Canalone”
“Punta del Pastrano”
Also “Torre Undici” (Elferturm) 2820m but separated from the main ridge
Cima Undici is placed on the east part of "Dolomiti di Sesto" group. Group of mountains on the border between "Alto Adige" and "Veneto" regions.
The approach can be done from both sides. Its normal routes are placed on the west side of the mountain. The most accessible points are the aforesaid "Passo della Sentinella" and "Forcella Zsigmondy". They can be reached from two sides:
From Alto Adige:
Sesto - Val Fiscalina - Refuge "Comici" - Sentiero degli Alpini - Forcella Zsigmondy
Sesto - Val Fiscalina - Refuge "Fondovalle" - path 124 - Passo della Sentinella
Sesto - "Refuge Rudi" - Rothwand kletterweg - Passo della Sentinella
Padola - Val Risena - "Refuge Berti" - path 101 - Passo della Sentinella
The village of Sesto il placed along the "Valle di Sesto" which belongs to the bigger "Val Pusteria" of Dobbiaco.
From the motorway that connect Austria to Italy across the "Passo del Brennero", take the gate "Brunico/Brunek", follow the indication to "Val Pusteria/Dobbiaco", and than shortly to "S.Candido/Sesto".
For who comes from the Veneto side, motorway A4 from Milano or Venice, motorway A27 to Belluno, SP 52 to Auronzo di cadore and indications to Giralba or Padola.
Normal Routes"Sorry for my inaccurate english lenguage, but the traslation from the italian is very arduous"
Cima Nord 3068m:
From "Passo della Sentinella", back over the same route, and go down a few steps (southeast) to cross a snowy couloir (the famous "Calata dei Mascabroni), and going to get a clear gravelled terrace.
Avoid to move too far to the left, you immediately attack the rocks above. The path is not precise. Climb over rubble, rocks and gullies crumbly gears (some passage of I°), in practice flanking the snowy couloir. Some rare little stone piles.
Then you will come out on sloping gravel which rise difficulty, and take a narrow channel with a trace of snow. From here many well-placed stonee piles lead to a gravelled ledge.
Carry on very friable rock always following the cairns (I°+), until you come to another terrace dirty debris around 3000 meters altitude. Left again, under rocks, following a good track takes you through two grooves crumbly until you come uphill to a saddle.
Right again straight for rock wall exposed (I° and II°) for 30 meters. It comes out in a notch and here in short to the Punta Nord.
Length: 370m from Passo della Sentinella
Difficult: I°/II° PD
Cima Sud 3092m:
The route start from the "Forcella della Caverna". This point as the neighbor bivouac Mascabroni, can be reached from the "Sentiero degli Alpini" or, much better along the whole traverse of the "Cresta Zsigmondy".
Much safer and also it permits to climb first of all the close "Monte Popera"
The approach to the south terrace "La Mensola" can also be made along the route "Zsigmondy-Purtsheller" from "Busa di Dentro". The friability of the rock, the landsliding of channels, the lack of signaling and the complexity of the route can make the climb only to experienced climbers and practical land friable in severe environment.
The whole traverse from "Forcella della Caverna" to the notch at the foot of the Cima Sud is very delicate, and for the crumbly soil that for no single points of insurance, except for some rare old anchors which should verify the reliability.
Although the crossing takes place on a bank rather large especially in snowy or icy gravel hardened by frost, which make the cross very dangerous. The route is suggest in late summer and only in the absence of snow and ice, with temperatures that thaws the ground debris, and only under great time and the absence of clouds.
Better to use a rope 60 meters long.
Length: 160m from the Forcella della Caverna
Difficult: II°/III°- PD+
Huts and Bivouacs
Refuge "Comici/Zsigmondy" 2224m
Placed in Val Fiscalina
From Campo Fiscalino 1454m 2/2.30 hours E
Owner CAI sez.Padova
Keeper Nikolaus Happacher
Tel. +39 0474710358
Places 98 + 6 winter
Open from june 30th to september 30th
link to website
Refuge "Berti al Popera" 1950m
Placed in Vallon Popera
From Selvapiana/Padola 1568m 1 hour path 101 E
Owner CAI sez. Padova
Keeper Bruno Martini tel. +39 043568031
Tel. +39 0436/67155
Places 56 + 8 winter
Open from 25th june to 25th september
link to website
Bivouac "Ai Mascabroni" 2932m
Placed at the foot of the Cima Sud
From the Refuge Comici along the Cresta Zsigmondy in 4 hours F
Owner "Giovane Montagna" sez. Vicenza
External LinksVal Pusteria website link
Sud Tyrol/Val Fiscalina link
Wheather Val Pusteria link
Dolomiti Meteo link