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5403 Hits
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79.78% Score
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11 Votes
Page Type:
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Route |
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Route Type:
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Sport Climbing |
Season:
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Spring, Summer, Fall, Winter |
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Time Required:
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Less than two hours |
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Rock Difficulty:
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5.11a (YDS) |
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Number of Pitches:
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1 |
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Overview
Technically this is a two pitch route, but most parties climb the excellent first pitch only. If you are adventurous continue on to the second pitch which offers similar climbing for another 7 bolts. One of the best lines at the Garden, regardless of grade, on some of the best and most asthetic rock. I high recomend this! Enjoy!
Looking at the Garden to the north from the base of Greyrock.This route was first put up and FA'ed by Ric Geiman and Cindy Geiman in 1990.
Getting There
Park at the black circle for quickest access to Greyrock.Getting here is really easy. I find that it is best and fastest to park at the lot just to the south-west of Grey Rock, (the big whitish looking wall.) You either must loop all the way around when entering in the front of the park, or you can enter the lot quicker by entering the park from Manitou Springs.
Good feet are key! Either way, park at the lot and walk on the road in the bikers lane (be careful for bikers!) until you come to an obvious climbers trail at the base of Greyrock. Follow the trail. 'Diesel and Dust' is the first bolted climb to the right of 'New Era' (the big 5.7 crack the runs up the face.)
Route Description
Starting holds of the climb.Start 10 feet to the right of 'New Era' (big crack) on amazing crimpers and ledges. The route does not quite follow the bolt path, so be aware that you might need to move to the right or left to find the best crimps.
Xs mark bolts, red line marks the path of climbing.The crux comes at the 5th bolt and is very interesting. After the crux similar terrain leads you to the anchors.
Nearing the black band at the 5th bolt where the crux sequence is.Essential Gear
A 60m rope will do the biz along with 7 quickdraws and something for the anchors. If you wish to do the second pitch, it might be easiest to take two ropes and do a single double-rope rap from the top.
Being lowered from 'Deisel and Dust'I feel that this route is really safe, pretty vertical and not too much swing potential. I do not wear a helmet hear, but if you are uncomfortable climbing or plan on taking a lot of whippers, I recomend wearing on.
Eric having fun figuring out the crux of the climb.