Dihedral to Dike, 5.9, 3 Pitches

Overview/Approach

Dihedral to Dike is listed as a short three-pitch route in the local guide that does not reach the summit.  In reality, Dihedral to Dike easily makes it to the summit block in three long pitches.  The first is 180’ to a good stance among chickenheads, the second is 200’ to the upper summit shoulder and the third is 170’ to below the summit block.  With competent double rope management this configuration makes sense (vs the guides description of 140’, 140’ and 40’?).  The author seems to exclude the natural way of finishing this route to the summit of the dome.  This final pitch offers interesting climbing through a singular bolt (5.9) up edges and slab to just below the summit block. 

Park as you would for Whale Dome, at the Cochise Trail trailhead on the west side.  Take the wash as you would for Whale Dome.  At about 2/3rd's of the way to Whale Dome you will cross water worn slab, normally with running water.  On the left side is an obvious narrow slot drainage between two domes, Epic and Gap.  Hike along the slick rock ribs to enter this narrow and typically shaded slot.  The start of the route is an obvious left facing dihedral that curves left in its upper reaches.    

Another route at the same grade located within a few minutes nearby is High Pro Glow, 5.9, 3 Pitches.  It is not near as good of a route as D to D, but worth doing to make a full day of easy to moderate climbing in the Stronghold.  Epic Dome forms the south side of the slot (gap) and Gap Dome forms the north side.  Both routes have good sun exposure during the winter.

Route Description

1^st Pitch- 180’-5.8/ One of the better pitches at its grade in the Stronghold.  Climb out of the cool canyon environs below following a left facing corner as it curves left.  The upper section is a great intro to trad for Cochise sport climbers.  At the end of the crack, transition to chickenheads up and right and continue to an obvious bend in the wall at a small hole/stance along a chickenhead plagued dike.  Small gear belay. 

2^nd Pitch-200’-5.9/ Climb the easy ground (large features to sling) along the dike to below an obvious right facing corner above.  Climb up to its base and then traverse out right on chickenheads to below a button head (2022) bolt.  Make a slab crux move over the bolt and continue up easy, almost level, ground to the end of a 60m rope and sling chickenheads for the belay.

3^rd Pitch- 170’-5.9/ Climb up the trough above via face and slab climbing, placing a few small to micro pieces and clip a buttonhead bolt (2022) and mantle up onto lower angled ground yet again.  Trend up and left past a bolt/slung chickenhead rap to below the massive summit boulder. 

Climbing Sequence

Descent

Fourth class it back to the singular bolt and slung chickenhead rap.  Make a double rope rap down to another slung chickenhead rap at the eastern edge of the shoulder below.  Make a full single 70m rap to a bolted station on Pony Express (a bolted line to the west of Dihedral to Dike).  Rap to the ground with a single 70m rope.  A single 70m will work for experienced climbers who don’t mind unroping on the upper shoulder to move the rap.

Essential Gear

Single 70m or double 60m ropes.  Single to #4, mostly used for the first pitch.  Route receives good sun in the morning, including the first pitch, in the winter.  Upper pitches receive full sun.