High Pro Glow, 5.9, 3 Pitches

Overview/Approach

High Pro Glow is not a sustained climb at the grade, far from it.  It is not near the route that Dihedral to Dike is in terms of interesting rock nor climbing, but it is a good pairing with D to D for a decent moderate day.  Epic Dome, where High Pro is located, forms a beautiful narrow gully (the gap) with Gap Dome.  High Pro Glow climbs the southeastern arete and receives good sun during the winter. 

The first pitch starts at the eastern toe below a wide easy corner.  Then meanders through brush on a slope up to the steep southeastern arete were two modern (2022) bolts are found.  Make these fun and steep moves through the bolts at the grade and continue up to many options for a chicken head slung belay.  The 2^nd and 3^rd pitches involve easy climbing well below grade to the very summit.

Hike in the wash as you would for Whale Dome.  Well before you get to the Whale Dome ascent gully, when you reach the water bleached white slick rock, look for a narrow gully on your left with steep walls on both sides and normally running water.  Epic Dome is the south most dome that forms this gap.  Make a quick ascent out of the wash on the south ridge prior to this narrow gully, aiming for a right facing wide off-width, which is maybe 5.5-5.6.  Rope up here.  The start is just a minute or two out of the wash.

Route Description

1^st Pitch- 180’-5.9/ Climb up the easy right facing off-width.  Cross over a bushy gap to the base of the steeper, higher wall.  Make the crux moves of the route over two modern (2022) bolts, trending up and left and then back right.  A few pumpy and fun vertical moves.  Continue up easy chicken heads to a belay stance with great features to sling. 

2^nd Pitch- 140’-5^th/ Continue climbing via large features until on the summit ridge at a bolted rap.

3^rd Pitch- 160’-5^th/ Walk along the summit ridge climbing a few short faces to the summit block which is easily ascended on the back side.  Return to a slung rap (2022) atop the last face you climbed. 

Climbing Sequence

Descent

Three double 60m rope raps pack to your packs.  From the slung rap down the summit ridgeline back to the bolted rap you used as a belay atop pitch 2.  70m single rap skiers left to a modern slung (2022) rap.  Double 60m rope rap trending skiers right all the way back to your packs at the base of the wide crack. 

Essential Gear

This route sees less ascents than its neighbor Dihedral to Dike, therefore, I recommend hauling cordelette and leaver biners for the raps.  I placed no trad gear, clipping just two bolts, but if this is your grade limit, take whatever you judge appropriate.  Outside of the easy wide first pitch and two bolts through the crux, quick and easy pro is mostly just slinging features.  This is not a sustained route.  Receives good sun in the winter.