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Eckturm
Mountain/Rock

Eckturm

 
Eckturm

Page Type: Mountain/Rock

Location: Rheinland Pfalz, Germany, Europe

Lat/Lon: 49.13775°N / 7.82594°E

Object Title: Eckturm

Activities: Sport Climbing

Season: Spring, Summer, Fall

Elevation: 1138 ft / 347 m

 

Page By: Gangolf Haub

Created/Edited: Jul 31, 2011 / Jul 31, 2011

Object ID: 733744

Hits: 1049 

Page Score: 76.8%  - 8 Votes 

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Overview

 
Eckturm north-west ridge
Eckturm from north-west

The village of Busenberg in the midst of the Südpfalz Climbing Area is surrounded by numerous sandstone climbing rocks, which almost form a perfect circle around the village. Most of the formations consist of long stretched ridges, which upon closer view separate into single towers or massifs. There are a few exceptions and Eckturm is one of them.
 
Eckturm
 
 
Eckturm north-west ridge
 
 
Eckturm south-west ridge
 
 
Eckturm south face
 

Eckturm - loosely translated as cornerstone tower - is perched on the slope of Eichelberg, high above the village of Schindhard. Thus located outside to the north of the enclosing circle, it is plainly visible from below, also unlike most of the other sandstone formations, which stay hidden underneath the forest canopy. Eckturm is a small formation, with 20m high walls but stands alone, separated from the Eichelberg slopes.
 
Eckturm south-west face
 
 
Eckturm north-west ridge
 
 
Eckturm
 
 
Eckturm north face
 

Eckturm received its name thanks to its location on the north-western corner of Eichelberg, which separates the climbing districts of Busenberg and Bärenbrunner Tal. Its climbing history starts in 1948, when Südpfalz' most active climber and first ascensionist, Hans Laub established the West face route together with Heinz Faul (V, A1), in which must have been one of his first climbing routes in the area.Together with Herbert Buchmann he established two more routes, Plattenweg (III+) and Juliwändel (IV, A0, later free at V+). The formation attracted attention in an off-and-on sort of fashion with routes dating from the early 1960s, mid 1970s and early 2000s. The most difficult route is running at VIII- and was established by Falk Heinicke and Anett Riemer in 2004 (Geschenk zum Männertag).

Getting There

There is a parking lot at the road between Busenberg and Schindhard, about 500m to the south of the formation. It also serves nearby Strackfels and Eilöchelfelsen. You can reach Busenberg as follows:

From Frankfurt

There are two possible routes which both take equally long
  1. Via Ludwigshafen
    • From Frankfurt take motorway A5 southward to Darmstadt.
    • There change to A67 south.
    • At Viernheimer Dreieck turn onto A6 west. Leav
    • e it at Frankenthaler Kreuz for A61 south.
    • At Mutterstädter Kreuz take A65 south until you reach Landau.
    • At Landau turn on B10 west.
    • At Hinterweidental turn onto B427 south which will take you through Dahn to Busenberg
  2. Via Kaiserslautern
    • From Frankfurt take motorway A3 west
    • At Mönchhofdreieck turn onto A67 south
    • At Rüsselsheimer Dreieck take A60 west
    • At Kreuz Mainz Süd take A63 south
    • At Kreuz Kaiserslautern turn onto A6 west
    • At Kreuz Landstuhl turn onto A62 south
    • At Pirmasens turn onto B10 east
    • At Hinterweidental take B427 south to Busenberg

From Stuttgart

  • Take motorway A8 to Karlsruhe
  • At Karlsruher Dreieck turn north onto A5
  • Tke the next exit to head for A65
  • At Kandel you can leave onto B427 which will lead you directly to Busenberg.

Red Tape

The sandstone of Südpfalz forms lots of caves and overhangs. Though this makes it most interesting for climbers, two species of birds of prey compete for this habitat: the peregrine falcons and the eagle owls. Both are endangered and wherever there is a eagle owl pair found nesting in the sandstone the crag will immediately be closed. Generally this closure lasts from the beginning of each year through Aug. 1st. If breeding is not successful the closures will be canceled even before that date. For a list of closures see the Closure List of PK.

The use of magnesia is not allowed in the whole Südpfalz region. This is rather a directive or an arrangement than an outright law. Thus you probably will get away with using it but do so only when absolutely necessary. Magnesia closes the pores which you find in the sandstone and together they form a smooth surface which will get very slippery in wet conditions. The rule of thumb is to use magnesia in the highest difficulty sections and only extremely sparingly.

A list of guidelines can be found here (in German).

Accommodation

In Busenberg you can find pensions, apartments and restaurants. Have a look at the official site for more info. There is a campground at Neudahner Weiher, north of Dahn, a second one west of Dahn. Both are about 10 km to the north-west of Busenberg. A third campground can be found at Bruchweiler-Bärenbach, about 7km to the south-west.

Weather Conditions



Maps & Books

Maps


As for maps there is a good overview map (1:50000) by Kompass Verlag but the best ones are the official topographic maps by the state government of Rheinland Pfalz, scaled 1:50000, 1:25000 and 1:5000. All official maps can be found on the web page of Landesvermessungsamt Rheinland Pfalz

1:50000
  • Naturpark Pfälzer Wald
    Kompass Map WK766
    ISBN: 3-85491-523-3
  • Pirmasens Süd
    LVA RLP Map L6910
    ISBN: 3-89637-193-2

1:25000
  • Dahn
    LVA RLP Map 6812
    ISBN: 3-89637-147-9


Books


There are a number of climbing guidebooks on the region of Südpfalz. The best ones, however, have been published privately and are sold only in selected bookshops of the region.
    Hiking
    • Pfälzerwald
      B. & J.-Th. Titz
      Rother Verlag
      ISBN: 3-7633-4268-0


    Climbing Guidebook

    Climbing
    • Klettern im Buntsandstein
      U. Daigger, H.-J. Cron
      Westpfälzische Verlagsdruckerei St. Ingbert
      ISBN: 3-00-0155457-4
    • Pfalz - Klettern im Buntsandstein des Pfälzer Felsenlands
      J. Richter, S. Tittel
      Panico Alpinverlag
      ISBN: 978-3-936740-41-7
    • Pfalz ++, Klettern im Buntsandstein
      R. Burkard, P. Weinrich
      Published privately
    • Klettern im Naturpark Pfälzerwald
      Naturfreunde Lambrecht
      Published privately

  • Pfalz & Nordvogesen en bloc
    A. Wenner, Y. Corby, I. Bald
    Panico Verlag
    ISBN: 3-936740-19-4

Images

EckturmEckturm north-west ridgeEckturmEckturm south faceEckturm south-west ridgeEckturm from north-eastEckturm north face
Eckturm south-west faceEckturm north-west ridgeEckturm shadowscapeEckturm north-west ridge