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Suedpfalz Climbing Region
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Suedpfalz Climbing Region

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Suedpfalz Climbing Region

Page Type: Area/Range

Location: Rheinland Pfalz, Germany, Europe

Lat/Lon: 49.13000°N / 7.80000°E

Object Title: Suedpfalz Climbing Region

Activities: Hiking, Trad Climbing, Sport Climbing, Toprope, Bouldering, Scrambling

Season: Spring, Summer, Fall

Elevation: 1988 ft / 606 m

 

Page By: Gangolf Haub

Created/Edited: Feb 9, 2005 / Aug 9, 2012

Object ID: 153677

Hits: 34194 

Page Score: 97.93%  - 77 Votes 

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Intention of this page

The area of Südpfalz (Southern Palatinate) is one of the most important climbing areas of Germany. However, if you are looking for guidebooks you will stay empty handed: though there are a small number of excellent guidebooks they all have been printed privately and are available only at book- and climbing shops of the region itself. Moreover, the most important guidebooks are out of print now and you'll have to hunt high and low to obtain one of the rare copies. If you are talking about web pages, there are a couple of excellent sites, the best being the site of the Association of Palatinate Climbers (Vereinigung der Pfälzer Kletterer). Here you can find huge lists of all major regions, crags and boulders. The info on routes, however, remains very short. Also, the site is in German and since many US soldiers are located in Kaiserslautern, some 30km to the north, it is worthwhile to have a page in English.

When hiking in the heart of the area, at the town of Dahn, I "conceived" this project: similarly to what Moni has done with the Sächsische Schweiz Page I want to start an area guide on Summitpost. My hope obviously is that the many climbers out there will start posting their route beta about the routes they have done in the area. I am aware that this task can become Herculean: there are 120 towers and 200 "massifs" in the Südpfalz region. If all ran well, we could expect up to 500+ routes on this page (In which case a subdivision into smaller areas surely would be opportune). But for the time being there is a white spot on the SP landscape which now will be filled.

Overview

 
Theoturm!
Theoturm on Lämmerfelsen
The southernmost part of my home state Rheinland Pfalz (or Rhineland Palatinate if you have to translate it) is one of the more important climbing areas in Germany. In general the area, called Pfälzer Bergland, consists of hills which reach an altitude of up to 500m. In its southern half (and yes, that's the part we are talking about: Südpfalz or Wasgau) however, between and among these hills you will find a lot of sandstone cliffs, which are loosely distributed over the whole area.

And this area is huge. To the north the boundary can be assumed being B10, the road between Pirmasens in the west and Landau in the east. To the south the boundary is the French - German border. All in all this adds up to an area of 500 square km. There are roughly 120 towers, 200 massifs (think of them as sandstone ridges) and uncountable numbers of boulders. They all are distributed over the whole area so that finding them is certainly a major logistical problem. Moreover, many of the crags are hidden in pine and beech forests or can be seen only from one specific direction. I therefore plan to include the exact topo coordinates for the various crags and additionally (very) short getting there descriptions. I'm not sure how to handle the boulders, though, since they are not shown on any map.

The most impressive and best known rocks, however, don't fall in this category. This is particularly true about Teufelstisch (the Devil's Table, see signature picture) which looms high above the village of Hinterweidental and can be even seen from B10, the main access road. Some other crags crop out of the forest directly above the villages. Jungfernsprung in Dahn, Kreuzfels in Hauenstein and Herrenstein in Erfweiler are a few examples. Moreover there are quite a number of castles in the area, all located on one of the sandstone ridges and offering great views and good hiking and climbing possibilities.

The sandstone is what we call "Buntsandstein" in German, a colourful (mostly red) variation. The character of the rock is quite similar to the on of Sächsische Schweiz in Saxony, but shows more difference in quality. "Solid as a rock" on one hand, "sand heaps and rubble" on the other. Almost all of the crags and boulders are overgrown with vegetation. You will barely find a rock which doesn't sport a little tree on its shoulder; all the north faces are covered with moss and lichen. Though the rock "has good grip", be careful on wet surfaces. Though generally as "grippy" as the dry rock, you'll often encounter spots where lichen has started to grow - and these spots can be astonishingly slippery! You will encounter the same problem, wherever magnesia has been used. It closes the pores in the sandstone and forms smeary surfaces when wet. For the restrictions on the use of magnesia see the Red Tape Section.

And for all the climbing you shouldn't forget the hiking possibilities of the area. A well kept net of hiking trails connects the villages with each other as well as with the rock outcroppings. You'll never know what you encounter on your hike - suddenly - seemingly out of nowhere there will be a huge boulder or two or even a large cliff barely visible through the trees. In sunny weather the play of shadow and light among the pine trees causes great effects, which unfortunately cannot be caught in pictures very well. The bright red sandstone contrasts beautifully with the blue sky, the light sandy underground and the red (also) bark of the pines. If you come across one of these hidden treasures by all means try to climb them - the "back way" (from the ridge / slope in the back) usually is manageable for everybody who can take exposure. Head along the ridge of the sandstone cliff - and suddenly everything else drops back. Especially during sunset this can become magical.

Climbing History

The history of climbing in the Südpfalz Region dates byck to the beginning of the 20th century. There had been ascents before but they had been using ladders, planks and whole tree trunks. In 1903 the first "free" ascent of Rödelstein was recorded by Karl and Oscar Mugler. Shortly afterwards a veritable climbing boom broke loose and most of the crags had been ascended by 1910 - 1920.

From then on the hunt for ever more difficult routes started, culminating in a XI- Route, Gambaxplosion on Retschenfels. Over the years there have been quite heated discussions about climbing ethics in the area, which by now have been settled by Climbing Guidelines, which have been generally accepted. The web page of the Pfalz Climbers Association lists them (in German) on this page. I will post a short transcript in the future in the Red Tape section.

Speaking of the Pfalz Climbers Association or "Vereinigung der Pfälzer-Kletterer" as it is known in German (also PK by its abbreviation), it has been founded in October 1919. After several disputes in the 1980s it now again is the generally accepted representative for all climbing related activities and all contacts with authorities and nature conservation agencies.

Its address is
Vereinigung der Pfälzer-Kletterer
Lindelbrunnstr. 40,
76855 Annweiler

History, the Castles of the area

Lindelbrunn Castle (or what...
Lindelbrunn Castle

Already mentioned in the overview section, there are a lot of castles in the area. By some accounts in the greater Pfalz region there were more than 500 of them. Most nowadays are ruins, often hidden in the forests and here, in the climbing area of Südpfalz they always have been built on sandstone rocks. In may cases they follow the ridgeline of the sandstone massifs all the way, which can be seen in the case of the three castles of Dahn in the picture above. Most of the castles were built between the 12th and 14th centuries, many got destroyed during the 30 Years War or the preceeding Peasant Uprising. Those which were left standing later got destroyed by French troops, an interesting example how an old technique (fortified castles) could not withstand progress (artillery).

As with the climbing rocks the castles don't stop at the French - German border. Landscape and culture still are very similar. The French Alsace as well as the German Pfalz have a chequered history, always having been at the centre of wars between the two countries. Still (or luckily) nowadays cross-border relations are very friendly.

The Cliffs, Südpfalz on SP

The Annweiler RegionVorderweidenthal and Surrounding AreaLug and Surrounding AreaRegion Rinnthal / WilgartswiesenHauenstein RegionErfweiler AreaBusenberg and SurroundingsBärenbrunn ValleyDahner FelsenlandBruchweiler / Budenthal RegionRegion Schönau / FischbachHinterweidenthal AreaRegion Leimen / MerzalbenEppenbrunn and Surroundings
Interactive map of Südpfalz. Click the numbers to be directed to the corresponding section.


There are so many sandstone cliffs in the Wasgau area that a subdivision into regions is necessary. I follow the subdivision as given by the PK on their web site. I also follow their principal listings of crags though - for copyright reasons - won't give the specifics of the routes. Just go to their web site for this information. You will, however only get (very) short route characteristics. For more information see the book by U. Daiger and H.-J. Cron (see last section), where the PK data are coming from.

For me the main problem is to identify the crags, how to get there and what to expect in the vicinity. I therefore have studied the maps and made extensive hikes in the area. Together with the aforementioned book I could identify about 99% of the crags. These are listed in the tables below for each region together with a map, which shows the approximate location of the identified cliffs.

For identification I used the maps and topo CDs I have listed in the Maps & Books Section below. I always used elevations as stated on the maps. In case the cliffs didn't have an elevation label attached to them I used the 1:50000 CD for approximate data. Topo coordinates are accurate within 20m except for a few cases in which I had to do "intelligent guesses". The coordinates are given in WGS84 format and thus can be used together with Google Maps.

The regions are listed west to east. According to the schematic map above you'll find the following regions:
  1. Eppenbrunn and Surroundings
  2. Region Leimen / Merzalben
  3. Hinterweidenthal Area
  4. Region Schönau / Fischbach
  5. Bruchweiler / Budenthal Region
  6. Dahner Felsenland
  7. Bärenbrunner Tal
  8. Busenberg and Surroundings
  9. Erfweiler Area
  10. Hauenstein Region
  11. Region Rinnthal / Wilgartswiesen
  12. Lug and Surrounding Area
  13. Vorderweidenthal and Surrounding Area
  14. The Annweiler Region

1 - Eppenbrunn and Surroundings

Overview Map of the...
Eppenbrunn Area

The area around Eppenbrunn is the south-westernmost part of the Südpfalz climbing region. It touches the French-German border as well as the border between the German states Rheinland Pfalz and Saarland. The area is compact with few climbing destinations, all close to each other. It sports a Teufelstisch, not quite as impressive as the one near Hinterweidenthal, which you can admire in the sig pic.

Rock / MassifHeightLatitudeLongitudeThumbnail
Stephanstürmchen 336m49,13617,62526 
Hübelfelsen 355m49,12917,62748 
Lattenteichfelsen 316m49,128667,63248 
Fleckstein 2398m49,133637,65845 
Eppenbrunner Christkindelsfels 357m49,110887,61274 
Eppenbrunner Krappenfelsen 350m49,108827,61193
Eulenfels 407m49,108857,58488 
Rotenrumer Eck 401m49,107947,54027 
Hohle Felsen 356m49,110187,55124 
Eppenbrunner Altschloßfelsen 377m49,104357,53975
Eppenbrunner Teufelstisch 358m49,117097,54461 
Rotzollwand 377m49,111557,53083 

2 - Region Leimen / Merzalben

Map of the Merzalben / Leimen...
Leimen Merzalben Area

The north-westernmost part of the Südfalz Climbing area is the region around the villages of Merzalben and Leimen. The crags are distributed evenly but many are very close to the villages. Zigeunerfels and Bruderfels are very close to the city of Pirmasens.

Rock / MassifHeightLatitudeLongitudeThumbnail
Breite Boll – Nordostturm 525m49,23727,8244 
Spitze Boll 540m49,232057,8142 
Otterfelsen 537m49,242817,81579
Husarenfelsen 544m49,253237,81873
Schmaler Hals 518m49,246987,79668 
Kieneckfelsen 527m49,262117,81648 
Östl. Kieneck Massiv (Jurassic Park) 523m49,261757,83348
Hortenkopf Massif 520m49,271847,81906 
Wartenbergfelsen 440m49,241487,78418 
Kippkopffelsen (Geißenfelsen) 522m49,260867,76205 
Hubertusfels 522m49,256147,74385 
Langenbergfels 320m49,243287,70483 
Rappersborner Fels 40249,293757,75327 
Seelenfelsen 364m49,273477,69803
Heidelsburg340m49,266567,69144
Rumbergfelsen338m49,278877,70059 
Fischerfels 336m49,269027,68599 
Spitzfelsplatte n.a.n.a.n.a. 
Felixköpfel 331m49,270757,67545 
Roschelfels 305m49,268867,67988 
Clausener Platte 387m49,265037,68558 
Saufels 360m49,242987,65573 
Bruderfels 353m49,236357,63473 
Zigeunerfelsen n.a.n.a.n.a. 

3 - Hinterweidenthal Area

Map of the Hinterweidenthal...
Hinterweidenthal Area

Famous for the Teufelstisch (Devil’s Table) between Kaltenbach and Hinterweidenthal this region offers more than one of these bizarre formations. Near Salzwoog there is a second Devil’s Table and there are a number of impressive cliffs directly in Hinterweidenthal. Most of the other crags are hidden in the forests, however.

Thumbnail
Rock / MassifHeightLatitudeLongitude
Mautzenbergtürmchen 370m49,224817,81052 
Rotenstein 423m49,216047,75188 
Bauwalder Fels473m49,225737,73402 
Hinterweidenthaler Steinbruch230m49,201187,75185 
Handschuhkopf 324m49,196237,74449 
Kaltenbacher Teufelstisch 277m49,194877,74352
Hinterweidenthaler Rappenfels 240m49,196347,75482
Rehfels (Heibertsstein) 249m49,186767,74185 
Heufelsen 232m49,186547,74699
Dreikönigsfelsen 244m49,184517,75205
Schweinsspießfels 351m49,182717,7919 
Reiherfels 299m49,186217,80482 
Rohrwoogtürmchen 270m49,180647,7939 
Biegdentaltürmchen 275m49,172147,79343 
Woogelfelsen 266m49,181267,74144 
Maiblumenfels 453m49,172237,7043
Salzwooger Teufelstisch 320m49,160657,70508
Rumbergfels 340m49,164197,63725 
Kleiner Rabenfels 448m49,171577,66753 
Ringstein 449m49,17647,67028 
Hummelfelsen 459m49,179767,67789 
Ruppertstein 452m49,186767,68592
Pirmasenser Kanzel 420m49,185327,64834 
Kugelfelsen Kanzel 355m49,197797,62962 

4 - Region Schönau / Fischbach

Map of the Schönau /...
Schönau / Fischbach Area

The region around the villages of Fischbach an Schönau extends across the border onto French soil (Alsace). Some of the more interesting rocks are located across the border underneath the castles (or ruins) Löwenstein, Hohenburg and Wegelnburg.

Rock / MassifHeightLatitudeLongitudeThumbnail
Rumbacher Christkindelsfels325m49,088587,77782 
Rückkorbfelsen314m49,075377,78194 
Schlüsselfelsen512m49,071257,7761 
Kastellfels302m49,083167,76219 
Kleine Rumbachtalplatte 255m49,083867,75841 
Rumbachtalfelsen 286m49,083867,75499 
Nördliches Rumbachtalmassiv 297m49,087587,75777 
Adelsfelsen 284m49,078887,75052
Dachsbergtürmchen 427m49,056147,72167 
Schönauer Pfaffenfels 328m49,057057,74622 
Schönauer Hirtsfels 358m49,051427,7658
Langer Fels 428m49,065617,78677 
Wegelnburgfelsen 571m49,060787,78591
Löwenstein (F)515m49,053667,78621
Krappenfels (F)451m49,051557,7868
Fleckensteiner Felsen (F)358m49,048057,7758
Große Hinzenfelsen 300m49,080247,70944 
Mittlere Hinzenfelsen 277m49,080697,70445 
Kleine Hinzenfelsen (Kilpenstein) 226m49,083727,70156 
Florenbergtürmchen (D/F)366m49,063337,69014 
Ostersäule 345m49,051647,68695 
Höchstturm 305m49,080697,65812 
Simter Türmchen 290m49,072667,64645 
Krähenstein 334m49,064257,67723 
Guckenbühlfelsen330m49,06367,65515 
Spitzer Fels 330m49,0557,65254 
Rumbergfelsen 331m49,053457,65828 
Adelsbergfels 395m49,054367,64629 
Biesenfels (Horbach-Kanzel)308m49,092417,6622 

5 - Bruchweiler / Budenthal Region

Map of the Bruchweiler /...
Bruchweiler / Budenthal Area

The village of Bruchweiler – Bärenbach is the centre for the climbing activities in the Südpfalz Region. This are is rather small but consists of quite a number of crags, located very close to each other. All can be reached from the village in no more than a 30min hike. Also, the Dahn and Erfweiler Regions with their fascinating towers are close by so you have the choice among a lot of sandstone crags.

Rock / MassifHeightLatitudeLongitudeThumbnails
Mühlengrundtürmchen 250m49,061117,83968 
Bobenthaler Rappenfels 225m49,067647,84962 
Fladensteine 373m49,102067,81729 
Jüngstbergfelsen 491m49,112217,82265 
Kastellfels 310m49,10937,81887 
Bruchweiler Geierstein 309m49,124377,808
Retschelfelsen 290m49,122697,79277
Eisenbahnfelsen 357m49,125637,79178 
Bruchweiler Rauhfelsen 332m49,125427,78403 
Dürrensteine (Maria und Friedrich) 409m49,127887,7768
Napoleon 336m49,121797,77047
Dretschbergfelsen460m49,117267,76789 
Bruchweiler Turm (Zwicksteine) 270m49,115827,7701 
Käskammerfelsen 269m49,11467,77391 
Beutelstein 312m49,108637,77374 
Birkelfelsen352m49,099387,78246 
Hühnerfelsen485m49,083867,906 

6 - Dahner Felsenland

Map of Dahner Felsenland in...
Dahn Area

Dahn is the “capital of the Südpfalz climbing region. Located in its middle, Dahn is surrounded by the most beautiful cliffs you can find. The distances to Erfweiler and Hinterweidenthal are short and you have the choice of so many climbing routes. Moreover with Jungfernsprung in the north, Hochstein in the south and the three impressive castle ruins of Altendahn the town is a tourist hotspot. There are also the fourth castle Neu Dahn and the twin towers of Braut und Bräutigam (Bride and Bridegroom) which add to the fascination of the place.

Rock / MassifHeightLatitudeLongitude 
Fischfelsen 278m49,14517,8029 
Schützenberg-Ostpfeiler 304m49,149277,7986 
Schützenwand 305m49,147467,79913 
Östlicher Schützenturm 300m49,148217,79501
Schützenliesel 290m49,147547,7926 
Östliches Hochsteinmassiv 345m49,145437,79379 
Hochstein 296m49,145327,78974
Jungfernsprung 259m49,153217,77438
Vogelsbergturm 262m49,154357,78091 
Dahner Kuckucksfelsen 294m49,155027,78349
Lachbergtürmchen 324m49,156137,78727 
Burgblickfels 305m49,161767,79276 
Römerfels 376m49,164247,7914
Haseneckfels 271m49,162217,7816 
Bubenfels 270m49,156387,7718
Oberer Galgenfelsen 261m49,158157,77077 
Nördlicher Galgenfelsen 263m49,159967,76888 
Mauchendellfels 264m49,163177,76649 
Weigelfels 229m49,164017,76494
Rabensteine (Taub und Falk) 307m49,163797,76924
Kreuzteichfels 298m 49,167627,75807 
Kauertfelsen 307m49,157937,76055 
Waidmannsruhe 240m49,155797,76099 
Wolfsdellfelsen 233m49,153887,75708 
Nördlicher Schwalbenfelsen 235m49,151747,75755 
Südlicher Schwalbenfelsen 235m49,14967,75755 
Hirschfels 235m49,144777,75566 
Hohle Felsen 440m49,12537,71753
Sängerfels 238m49,153887,76888
Schillerfelsen 231m49,148937,77232
Dahner Wachtfelsen 279m49,145777,77491 
Braut und Bräutigam 237m49,146247,77318
Klammpfeiler 250m49,146247,77096 
Rotgraue Wand 257m49,145217,76957 
Blitzfels 238m49,14517,76924 
Pfaffdellfelsen 254m 49,147277,76993 
Büttelwoogfelsen 249m49,142857,7658
Büttelfels 276m49,140917,77232
Lämmerfelsen 271m49,137777,77441
Durstigfelsen275m49,13437,77852
Durstigfelsen275m49,131587,77495 

7 - Bärenbrunn Valley

Map of Bärenbrunn Valley
Bärenbrunn Valley

The Bärenbrunn Valley is the smallest of the climbing regions, wedged between Erfweiler, Busenberg and Bruchweiler / Budenthal. In effect all of the crags form a circle around Bärenbrunner Hof, which makes this farm the centre of all climbing activities in the Südpfalz region. The distances between the crags are minimal and the elevations are all between 250 and 450m. Bärenbrunner Hof is located at
  • Elevation: 276m
  • Lat: 49.1550N
  • Lon: 7.8528E


Rock / MassifHeightLatitudeLongitudeThumbnails
Pferchfeldfelsen 345m49,144437,84079
Mondfels 385m49,146437,85158 
Saarbrücker Türmchen 385m49,146687,85362 
Sternfelsen 370m49,152997,85428
Honigfelsen 350m49,156137,85739
Bärenbrunner Schandariefelsen 340m49,157937,85428 
Nonnenfels 340m49,156827,85084 
Klosterfels 340m49,154797,84798 
Bärenbrunner Pfaffenfels 320m49,155467,84554 
Bärenbrunner Kesselfels 370m49,151717,83454 
Kuckucksfelsen 270m49,143777,82437 
Kapellenfels 270m49,143997,81579 
Kahles Türmchen 300m49,145217,81357 
Kahles Wändchen (Geländerfels)320m49,145327,81218 

8 - Busenberg and Surroundings

Map of the Busenberg Area of...
Busenberg Area
The area around Busenberg is a compact climbing region. All of the crags are hidden deeply in the forest and finding the starting points of the routes is certainly quite challenging. As an interesting destination the ruin of Drachenfels castle surely draws some attention.
Rock / MassifHeightLatitudeLongitude
Thumbnail
Schulerturm 350m49,122137,82712
Heidenturm 420m49,119667,83798
Heidenpfeiler 359m49,115527,83695
Heidenkammern 352m49,116277,83023
Buhlsteinpfeiler 387m49,129357,85292
Buhlsteine 446m49,132277,84912 
Löffelsberg-Ostgratfels 448m49,14067,85359 
Löffelsberg-Südhangfels 379m49,137917,8524 
Busenberger Galgenfelsen 355m49,14267,85587 
Bärenbrunner Nadel 359m49,138577,83573 
Eichelsbergtürmchen 327m49,138797,83245 
Eichelturm 348m49,135557,83418 
Drei Steine 320m49,13437,83132
Kreuzfels 320m49,133747,82782
Strackfelsen 300m49,135667,82318
Eckturm 347m49,137687,82626
Eilöchelfelsen 315m49,136327,81923
Dickenbergwand 356m49,133857,81496 
Dickenbergtürmchen 283m49,133417,81379 
Sprinzel (Dickenbergturm)297m49,130247,81185

9 - Erfweiler Area

Map of the Erfweiler area of...
Erfweiler Area
Erfweiler is a beautiful village located in one of the most interesting climbing areas of Wasgau. Many of the cliffs are visible from the village itself and access distances are less than 1km for almost all of the crags. The three Altendahn Castles tower above the village to its west and the town of Dahn can be reached in an hour on foot.
Rock / MassifHeightLatitudeLongitudeThumbnail
Zimmerplatzfels (Löchelfelsen) 308m49,152257,80583 
Zimmerfelsen 293m49,154947,806
Hebelfels 245m49,158587,80839
Hahnfels (Brückenfels) 290m49,158787,81511
Mittlerer Rauhfels 270m49,159477,81769 
Bänderfels 270m49,159697,81814 
Heegerturm 260m49,159227,82336 
Sorgenbergfelsen 296m49,156197,83678 
Schafsfelsen 374m49,152287,82567
Erfweiler Sattelfelsen 330m49,150987,83032 
Kelterhausfels 300m49,167117,81942 
Trögenbergfels270m49,171177,81378 
Erfweiler Klamm 280m49,17587,80483 
Westlicher Rappenfels 287m49,166677,82217
Rappenwand 298m49,166677,82422
Lobelia 280m49,168147,82697 
Westlicher Kumbtfels 280m49,169587,82767 
Kumbtfels 270m49,168477,82972
Winterbergfelsen 300m49,168037,8325
Glasfelsen270m49,165317,82903

10 - Hauenstein Region

Map of the Hauenstein area of...
Hauenstein Area
Hauenstein is known for the cliffs around the town-centre: Kreuzelfels, Burghaldefelsen and the Felsentor Gate, through which the main road leads. To the south of the town you can find a lot of crags very close to each other and interconnected by a web of hiking trails. The southernmost of these rocks is Hühnerfels, one of the cliffs which have been equipped with steel ladders.
Rock / MassifHeightLatitudeLongitudeThumbnail
Neufeldtürmchen 245m49,200517,84728 
Nedingfelsen 336m49,197937,85356
Neding-Ostgratfelsen 294m49,198157,85912 
Spirkelbacher Rauhfels 371m49,196937,87164
Rauhbergtürmchen (Krappenfels)340m49,199217,87359
Rauhbergpfeiler 340m49,196937,87442
Hülsenfelsen 360m49,181267,87234 
Kreuzelfelsen 329m49,18797,85309
Kahler Fels 335m49,186547,85326
Dörreinfelsen 305m49,184077,85153
Backelstein 279m49,182267,85395
Säulenfels 350m49,17747,85703 
Birkenfels 330m49,176157,85773 
Hühnerstein 456m49,170137,86567
Hoher-Kopf-Turm 443m49,17747,85084 
Lanzenfahrter Felsen 285m49,180577,84912
Burghaldefels 303m49,186357,84626
Benztürme 320m49,17917,8447 
Hauensteiner Turm 300m49,181017,8409 
Stephanstürme 306m49,170827,84523
Sattelfelsen (Dümpfelturm) 316m49,171967,85015
Platzturm 320m49,169247,84712 
Wolfsfelsen 270m49,169217,84601
Zimmerbergfelsen 370m49,189847,83695 
Lauberstalfels250m49,206967,80275 

11 - Region Rinnthal / Wilgartswiesen

Map of the Rinntal /...
Rinnthal / Wilgartswiesen Area
The region between the villages of Rinntal and Wilgartswiesen is very popular since most of the climbing crags can be reached either from the villages or the roads which cross the area. B10, the main highway, B48 and K56 all lead through the hills and there are quite many parking lots nearby. The cliffs, however, are far less impressive than the neighbouring Annweiler or Hauenstein cliffs.
Rock / MassifHeightLatitudeLongitude 
Buchholzfelsen 385m49,210877,93077 
Rinnthaler Falkenturm 353m49,213347,92855 
Mühlfelsen 332m49,21647,92438 
Schmalbühler Felsen367m49,216047,94108 
Dingentalturm 369m49,218187,93469 
Haubenthaler Fels 290m49,221237,92802 
Kostenfels 327m49,220767,92302
Brodfels290m49,224847,91913 
Dachsfels 296m49,216627,91066 
Langenfelsen 271m49,227987,91716
Langentaltürmchen 280m49,23797,92855 
Frohndellpfeiler 311m49,230567,91577
Frohndelltürmchen 292m49,232267,9143 
Wellbachtalfelsen 247m49,237487,90433 
Göckelsbergtürmchen 270m49,226097,9083 
Göckelsbergeck 377m49,226517,91205 
Drei Felsen 282m49,225517,90805
Wilgartisplatte 274m49,225297,90358
Wilgartisburg 247m49,225297,89997
Göckelsbergmassiv 279m49,220797,89728 
Mittlerer Göckelsbergfelsen 259m49,219547.8951E 
Westlicher Göckelsbergfelsen 269m49,218597,89294 
Darstein 220m49,21847,8998 
Finsterbergfels 259m49,212597,89311 
Wilgartswieser Puppe 292m49,211097,89331 
Kalmeckfelsen 292m49,20777,88831 
Prälatenkammern 270m49,207017,89108 
Bavariafels (Wilgartswieser Rauhfels) 320m49,204577,87439
Wilgartswieser Rauhberg-Südostpfeiler 338m49,20237,87267 
Wilgartswieser Rauhbergpfeiler 328m49,202077,86873
Aufels 220m49,212017,88331
Freischbachwand 243m49,22197,86534 
Freischbachtürmchen 281m49,222797,8777 
Eselsfels 290m49,209517,87164
Kuhfels 300m49,209957,87061
Kuhplatte 270m49,21047,86786 
Vordere Deichenwand 270m49,208437,86517 
Mittlere Deichenwand 270m49,209767,85948
Hintere Deichenwand 260m49,210827,85553 
Eselsturm 300m49,210957,85189 
Falkenburgfels 337m49,205237,8605 
Östl. Schloßbergturm305m49,205767,86217 
Östl. Gratturm270m49,207827,85467 

12 - Lug and Surrounding Area

Map of the Lug area of...
Lug Area

The Lug region is one of the most popular climbing areas in the whole Südpfalz region. The most important climbing crags are directly accessible from the village centre which is located at the intersection of two important side roads through the region. The most important crags are Luger Friedrich – one of the first cliffs to be climbed and the Geiersteine, three high towers to the east of the village. There are less important crags nearby so in case of overcrowding (which easily happens here) you can turn to other destinations.

Rock / MassifHeightLatitudeLongitudeThumbnails
Weidenthaler Fels 242m49,205457,91786 
Östl. Kesselwand 260m49,206457,91427
Westl. Kesselwand 260m49,205687,91066 
Rindsberg-Westpfeiler 292m49,205017,90689
Östl. Bergerfels 310m49,21012 7,92519 
Westl. Bergerfels 290m49,209077,92216 
Weiherwände358m49,204767,90255
Ferkelstein Massiv 320m49,200737,91361 
Kleiner Ferkelstein310m49,200157,90383 
Rothenfelsen (Rödelstein) 362m49,201847,93244
Kriegstaltürmchen 246m49,199487,92563 
Heimelstein 462m49,198047,93624 
Wernersberger Wachtfels (Kanzel) 386m49,192377,924 
Klingelfels (Kisselbachwändchen) 360m49,193377,90114 
Kisselbachwand 284m49,188357,89911 
Laubendöllwand 290m49,184987,89331 
Luger Friedrich 310m49,183627,88847
Höllenfelsen 414m49,18347,88417
Runder Hut (Heischfels) 348m49,190217,91325 
Hornsteine 402m49,18167,90083
Maus 400m49,18067,90911
Katerfelsen 400m49,180577,90775
Wernersberger Geiersteine 378m49,179217,91291
Nesselbergfelsen 300m49,17817,89272 
Dimbergpfeiler 370m49,166717,91119
Kaftenstein 350m49,168077,90533 
Dimturm 330m49,173497,90083 
Hoher Kopf (Dimfels)360m49,171917,90262 
Dimberg-Nördliche Gratfelsen 376m49,171407,90322 
Dimberg-Südliche Gratfelsen 400m49,168577,90921 
Dimbacher Käshafen 350m49,166497,89158 
Hockerstein (Wachtfels)333m49,167857,88728 
Isselmannsteine 371m49,164297,91286 
Engelmannsfels 357m49,158857,93363
Drei Puppen 339m49,154577,92266
Rötzensteinpfeiler 392m49,156827,91083
Steiner Nadel (Käshafen) 372m49,15417,93244 

13 - Vorderweidenthal and Surrounding Area

Map of the Vorderweidenthal...
Vorderweidenthal Area
This is an area to the southeast of Südpfalz, best known for on of its central climbing crags: Rödelstein. This was the first of the sandstone cliffs ever climbed back in 1903 over an UIAA 3+ Route. Another interesting location is the ruin of Lindenfels Castle with its Honeycomb Wall, the west face upon which part of the castle has been built. It is an overhanging rock, 20m in height, which sports three difficult climbing routes.
Rock / MassifHeightLatitudeLongitudeThumbnails
Haselstein 393m49,155777,87095 
Kochelstein 350m49,154577,87959 
Schanzenturm 360m49,138187,87959
Rödelstein 423m49,13617,88245
Nasenfels 400m49,143527,89633 
Kellerfels 320m49,131827,90169 
Krappenfels (Schweinsfels) 310m49,13017,89625 
Nördl. Silzer Schweinsfelsen 360m49,140167,92216 
Südl. Silzer Schweinsfelsen 390m49,13777,91988 
Hirschbergfels 331m49,120457,90825 
Lauterschwaner Rappenfelsen338m49,117857,90947
Roschelfelsen 410m49,120387,93347 
Lauterschwaner Türmchen 290m49,112417,90993 

14 - The Annweiler Region

Map of the Annweiler area of...
Annweiler Area
Annweiler, a town not far to the west of Landau, is best known for Trifels Castle, which is located south of the town. The climbing crags form some kind of circle around the town. Annweiler is located directly south of the main access road B10.
Rock / MassifHeightLatitudeLongitudeThumbnails
Katzenfelsen497m49,263457,9749 
Eußerthaler Krappenfelsen330m49,26027,95532 
Scharfeneckfels502m49,252538,02073 
Orensfels565m49,237178,02479 
Behälter-Kopf Massif354m49,249627,9491 
Eußerthaler Blöcke354m49,253877,95049 
Beutelsbergmassiv377m49,251877,95771 
Eußerthaler Sommerfels387m49,244987,95946 
Gräfenhausener Sommerfelsen373m49,230737,95955 
Annweiler Krappenfels389m49,215597,96446 
Adelsberg452m49,207487,9498 
Trifels497m49,196217,97843
Anebos482m49,192767,98168
Kiefernfels425m49,192717,98277
Brockel425m49,19217,9826
Fensterfels425m49,19117,98382
Bindersbacher Turm425m49,19117,98382
Jungturm425m49,190237,98504
Münzfels488m49,190237,98504
Asselstein406m49,18797,95963
Rehbergfelsen576m49,181467,97074 
Föhrlenbergpfeiler450m49,190657,99415
Kleiner Hahnstein451m49,176157,97163
Großer Hahnstein411m49,169137,97946
Lebersteine391m49,159077,9713
Hundsfels386m49,15667,97663 

Boulders

There are endless numbers of boulders in the area and I still have no idea how to pinpoint them. For the time being I'll refer you to the site of the PK. You'll find hundreds of bouldering problems there, however without the exact getting there info. There is a pdf-version of the main bouldering guide up for download available. Get it here!

Getting There

The easiest access road to Südpfalz is B10, which runs along directly to the north of the region. In can be reached from the surrounding larger cities as follows:

From Frankfurt (airport) via Ludwigshafen
Take motorway A5 southward in direction Karlsruhe. At Darmstadt switch to A65 (also southward). At the intersection"Viernheimer Dreieck" switch to A6 west. At the intersection "Kreuz Frankenthal" switch to A61 southward, which you have to leave two intersections later ("Kreuz Mutterstadt") onto A65 south. At the exit Landau-Nord leave the motorway and take B10 westwards.

From Mainz, Cologne (north)
Take motorway A63 from Mainz (or from the Intersection "Kreuz Alzey" if you come from Cologne) to Kaiserslautern. There turn briefly onto A6 west, which you leave three exits later ("Kreuz Landstuhl) onto A62 south. This motorway takes you to Pirmasens, where you switch to B10 east.

From Stuttgart via Karlsruhe
Take motorway A8 to Karlsruhe. Here take motorway A5 northward for one exit and leave for A65, direction Landau. At the exit Landau-Nord leave onto B10 west.

When To Climb

The whole area of the Natural Park is open all year. Several of the crags are closed for the first half of the year due to breeding peregrine facons and eagle owls (see red tape).

Red Tape

Yes, there is red tape and lots of it. The sandstone of Südpfalz forms lots of caves and overhangs. Though this makes it most interesting for climbers, two species of birds of prey compete for this habitat: the peregrine falcons and the eagle owls. Both are endangered and wherever there is a eagle owl pair found nesting in the sandstone the crag will immediately be closed. Generally this closure lasts from the beginning of each year through Aug. 1st. If breeding is not successful the closures will be cancelled even before that date. For a list of closures see the Closure List of PK.

The use of magnesia is not allowed in the whole Südpfalz region. This is rather a directive or an arrangement than an outright law. Thus you probably will get away with using it but do so only when absolutely necessary. Magnesia closes the pores which you find in the sandstone and together they form a smooth surface which will get very slippery in wet conditions. The rule of thumb is to use magnesia in the highest difficulty sections and only extremely sparingly.

A transcript of the rules as set by the PK will follow here in the future.

Accommodation, Food and Wine

Erfweiler with Hahnfels and...
Erfweiler

Let me state first, that of course there are campgrounds in the region, However I can see no reason why one should camp out. In all villages you can find inns, hotels and apartments. And you can be sure to get excellent food out there. I know quite a lot of people who come a long way each year explicitly to dine in the region. In its eastern part, where the mountains suddenly drop into the wide Rhine River Valley you find the so called Weinstrasse (Wine Road), which stretches for 100km through vineyards. It should be obvious, why it got its name.

Camping
There is no shortage of campgrounds, some of which are used for youth clubs. Here is a list of and towns with campgrounds listed east to west:
Dörrenbach, Annweiler, Hauenstein, Erlenbach, Bobental (youth campground), Dahn, Bruchweiler-Bärenbach, Fischbach (youth campground), Lemberg, Ludwigswinkel, Stürzelbronn, Schweix.

You can find Youth Hostels in Dahn and Annweiler.

Accommodation Sites
This is certainly not a complete list. I suppose that each village has a page somewhere. I put up the most informative pages about villages at the heart of the climbing region of Südpfalz:
  • Tourist information Erfweiler
  • Tourist information Rumbach
  • Tourist Information Dahn
  • Accommodation around Annweiler and Trifels
  • Tourist information Bruchweiler-Bärenbach
  • Vacation Homes Eichwald

    Weather Conditions

    Lookup the weather conditions for the nearest cities, Pirmasens and Landau:
  • Pirmasens weather
  • Landau weather

    Maps, Books & Web Pages - The Reference

    Maps
    As for maps there is a good overview map (1:50000) by Kompass Verlag but the best ones are the official topographic maps by the state government of Rheinland Pfalz, scaled 1:50000, 1:25000 and 1:5000. All official maps can be found on the web page of Landesvermessungsamt Rheinland Pfalz
    1:50000
    • Naturpark Pfälzer Wald
      Kompass Map WK766
      ISBN: 3-85491-523-3
    • Annweiler am Trifels
      LVA RLP Map L6712
      ISBN: 3-89637-191-6
    • Bad Bergzabern
      LVA RLP Map L6912
      ISBN: 3-89637-194-0
    • Pirmasens Süd
      LVA RLP Map L6910
      ISBN: 3-89637-193-2

    1:25000
    • Pirmasens Nord, 6711, ISBN: 3-89637-139-8
    • Merzalben, 6712, ISBN: 3-89637-140-1
    • Annweiler am Trifels, 6713, ISBN: 3-89637-141-X
    • Pirmasens Süd, 6811, ISBN: 3-89637-146-0
    • Dahn, 6812, ISBN: 3-89637-147-9
    • Bad Bergzabern, 6813, ISBN: 3-89637-148-7
    • Ludwigswinkel, 6911, ISBN: 3-89637-151-7
    • Fischbach bei Dahn, 6912, ISBN: 3-89637-152-5
    • Oberotterbach, 6913, 3-89637-153-3

    1:5000
    There are endless numbers of maps, please look them up on the web page given above if you feel you need them.



    Maps on CD
    You can also get the official 50k and 25k maps as software CDs. Also to be found on the web page of Landesvermessungsamt Rheinland Pfalz.
    • CD-ROM 1:50 000 Rheinland- Pfalz/Saarland 4.0
      1:50000
      ISBN: 3-89637-336-6
    • CD-ROM 1:25 000 Nr. 4 Saarl.-Hochwald-Pfälzer B.
      1:25000
      ISBN: 3-89637-347-1


    Books
    As said in the introductory section there are a number of climbing guidebooks on the region of Südpfalz. The best ones, however, have been published privately and are sold only in selected bookshops of the region.
      Hiking
      • Pfälzerwald
        B. & J.-Th. Titz
        Rother Verlag
        ISBN: 3-7633-4268-0

      Climbing
      • Klettern im Buntsandstein
        U. Daigger, H.-J. Cron
        Westpfälzische Verlagsdruckerei St. Ingbert
        ISBN: 3-00-015457-4
      • Kletterführer Mittelgebirge Pfalz: Klettern im Buntsandstein des Pfälzer Felsenlands
        by Jens Richter , Sabine Tittel
        Verlag: Panico Alpinverlag
        ISBN: 978-3936740417
      • Pfalz ++, Klettern im Buntsandstein
        R. Burkard, P. Weinrich
        Published privately
      • Klettern im Naturpark Pfälzerwald
        Naturfreunde Lambrecht
        Published privately

      Bouldering
      • Bouldern im Pfälzer Wald
        P. Weinrich
        Published privately and out of print
        PDF-Version
      • Pfalz & Nordvogesen en bloc
        A. Wenner, Y. Corby, I. Bald
        Panico Verlag
        ISBN: 3-936740-19-4

      Bike Touring
      • Radwanderführer Pfalz / Rheinhessen
        H.-E. Rösch
        Kompass Verlag
        ISBN: 3-8134-0189-8


    Web Pages
    There are also a couple of (German) web pages, which give excellent overviews but which stop short when it comes to route descriptions.

    Additions and Corrections

    [ Post an Addition or Correction ]
    Viewing: 1-4 of 4    
    godisgreat82Koordinates corrections

    Hasn't voted

    Some "intelligent matching" on the location of some rocks is wrong, so here are the correct coordinates for two of them:



    Rohrwoogtürmchen 49.18064,7.7939

    Erfweiler Klamm 49.1758, 7.80483
    Posted Feb 25, 2010 12:56 pm
    Gangolf HaubRe: Koordinates corrections

    Gangolf Haub

    Hasn't voted

    Fixed. Thanks!
    Posted Feb 28, 2010 5:15 am
    jochenNew climbing book

    Hasn't voted

    There is an excellent new climbing book für Suedpfalz, much better than the old ones. Excellent topos, descriptions and pictures! Costs 39,90€

    Kletterführer Mittelgebirge Pfalz: Klettern im Buntsandstein des Pfälzer Felsenlands

    by Jens Richter , Sabine Tittel

    Broschiert: 520 Seiten/pages

    Verlag: Panico Alpinverlag; Auflage: 3. Auflage. (August 2011)

    Sprache: Deutsch

    ISBN-10: 3936740410

    ISBN-13: 978-3936740417

    Größe und/oder Gewicht: 18,4 x 14,8 x 3,2 cm

    http://www.amazon.de/Kletterf%C3%BChrer-Mittelgebirge-Pfalz-Buntsandstein-Felsenlands/dp/3936740410/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1331642610&sr=8-1
    Posted Mar 13, 2012 8:46 am
    Gangolf HaubRe: New climbing book

    Gangolf Haub

    Hasn't voted

    Thanks Jochen,



    I have it on some of my pages but forgot to update this one.
    Posted Mar 14, 2012 8:20 am

    Viewing: 1-4 of 4    

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