Forbidden Tower, 5.8-5.10a

Overview/Approach

(photo above:  "The Way" on the left, Child of Light on the right) Forbidden Tower is one of the more obscure and remote features at the City of Rocks.  Although it looks like it could absorb more route development, it is located in the “Research Natural Area” and bolting is “forbidden”, therefore the name.  One of its two published (2020) routes is completely contrived:  The Way, 5.8**.  How it received two stars in the local guide is beyond me.  However, the other route is worth doing, Child of Light, 5.10a**.  It is a nice along trad route with two fun cruxes.  Like many routes at the City, the grade is a bit soft but it is fun and tall nonetheless.  It has a spicy finish (solo face with consequences), but you do not need to do that portion of it as you are already on the shoulder of the formation that begins the walk off.  I did solo the face and left a fresh slung horn at the true summit as of 2020, as you must rap back to the shoulder to get off.   This is a good route to either combine with the three sport routes on Nameless Tower (to the west) and/or the excellent three routes on Banana Crag (to the northwest).  We saw a moose in this corridor in May, 2020 as well las a Rubber Boa on approach (photo).

This area of the City is almost of equal distance from the Circle Creek and North Fork trailheads.  For Forbidden Tower and its surrounding environs, I prefer to park and hike in from Circle Creek.  Pass through two gates heading for the obvious Stripe Rock.  After passing through the gate just below Stripe Rock, continue straight on the North Fork trail.  Take the right fork (signed as of 2020).  You will pass the Great Wall and Nexus on your right which are significant formations.  Continue until you almost reach Beef Jello on your left.   Keep eyeing the ridgeline to your right for Nameless Tower which has a striking arete summit feature at its north end.  Leave the trail to circumvent Nameless Tower on its left (north).  Nameless has a significant tower aspect on its left side (two pitches tall).  Break between Nameless and another formation to the north at the top of the ridge line and Forbidden Tower’s west face will be in full view.  Child of Light is straight ahead.  If descending back to the Stripe Rock area, simply drop down the corridor you are in and it will drop you off near the trail at the gate below Stripe Rock.

Routes Listed Left to Right as you face the West Facing Wall

The Way- 5.8**/ This route is contrived and deserves no stars even though the guide suggests two?  Follow discontinuous cracks left of Child of Light (much more obvious line) on low angled rock.  The first bulge (crack) offers some steepness but still probably not 5.8 climbing.  Set a gear belay/rap.  Scramble down north to the gully heading west to walk off.  Gear to 2”.  Dow

Child of Light, 5.10a**/ This is a decent and long trad line at the left end of the west face of Forbidden Tower.  As of 2020, there are only two published routes on Forbidden Tower and it is illegal to add bolts to the formation, but supposedly legal to climb it.  Scramble up 4th class to a sloped ledge.  Climb the most continuous crack which ends where the summit block meets the shoulder of the formation.  The crux of the climb is the first bulge which is steep but protects well.  Climbs below grade from there on.  Once on the shoulder, the topo shows going to the summit.  I soloed steep, but juggy, 5.7 terrain.  There will be some rope drag at this point.  There is a crack further to the left, but the topo line suggests the FAer’s intended you to solo this last bit (if you fall, you will hit the deck of the shoulder below).  We left a new slung horn (2020) to rap back to the shoulder from the true summit.  Scramble down and north and then back west and down a gully to return to your packs. Single rack to #2 with several long slings. A 150’ to 200’ route depending on where you start (ground or 50’ up the slab).  Dow