Nameless Tower, 5.8-5.11a

Overview/Approach

(photo above is Sub Zero) Of all the features in the Inner City not to be named, this is an odd choice.  It features a striking two pitch bolted arete, Sub Zero, 5.11a***, leading to a tower like summit which is easy to identify from the North Fork Trail.   Nameless has just three established routes as of 2020, all fully bolted and all relatively new (2003).  They were established by the same FAer and are all three over bolted.  Sub Zero is by far the best of the three routes offering two decent sport pitches, 5.10b and 5.11a.  The cruxes are not over bolted per se on this route, but the easy ground is?  Same with Naked Ape, 5.8***, and Peppermint Patty, 5.9**.  Both have a ton of bolts on their easier portions.  Why the local guide gives Naked and Peppermint a recommendation is beyond me.  They are both set up to be climbed in two pitches (mid rap anchor) but can easily be led as one pitch each.  Although the length of the routes is a bonus, Peppermint Patty deserves zero stars.  There is no 5.9 move to be had as it climbs a non-descript blunt arete (buttress) on the south end of the formation.  Naked Ape is worthy, but not three stars worth.  On the other hand, Sub Zero, at the north end of the west face offers some outstanding movement in the 5.10 realm and is therefore a member of my favorite cirque for a full day of climbing in the Inner City:  start out by climbing Beef Jello, 5.10d*** (east facing), then cross over the creek to climb Banana Belly, 5.10a** and Banana Split, 5.10d* (east facing) on Banana Crag,  followed by Sub Zero, (west facing), and finish the day on the Great Wall on a stellar and unique two pitch trad climb named Birth Canal, 5.10d** (west facing).  In this order they are set up to keep you in the sun on cooler days.  This cirque of routes is off trail and makes sense when you do it this way in terms of elevation gain/loss.  You do not return to the North Fork trail until almost at the gate below Stripe Rock.

The guide references that you need two ropes to rap Sub Zero which is not the case.  A single 70m gets you down to 4^th class 20’ from the ground.  A single rope raps the other two routes in two raps.

I prefer to approach by parking at the Circle Creek Trailhead.  I have approached from both directions, but North Fork involves a lot more elevation loss and gain vs the relatively level approach all the way in from Circle Creek.  Pass Stripe Rock on your left as you go through a gate and continue on the North Fork Trail past Nexus on your right.  After Nexus, Nameless Tower’s Sub Zero can be seen at the top of the hill on your right, a broad faced arete at the north end of its west face.  Naked Ape is in the middle of the west face and Peppermint Patty climbs the south buttress.

Routes Listed Left to Right as you are Facing the West Facing Wall

Sub Zero- 5.11a***, 2 Pitches/ A relatively new sport route (2003), Sub Zero is one of the better two pitch bolted lines at the City.  It climbs up the north end of the west face of Nameless Tower, finishing part way up the unique summit block.  The first pitch scrambles up 5th class through bolts to a steep varnished section of 5.10b that offers thought provoking climbing at the grade.  It ends on a cool small ledge on the left arete (great positioning).  The second pitch, again, climbs through 5th class like ground through bolts to the base of the summit block.  The crux climbing of the route is climbing half way up the summit block on finger edges and side pulls.  It starts left and then moves right.  Climbing the somewhat blind steep ground on this route in regards to both pitches, the crux is trusting the holds are there and they are. In other words, many of the holds are difficult to get visual on at the cruxes.  Dow

Naked Ape- 5.8***, 2 Pitches/ These are relatively modern sport routes (2003) for the City and I have no idea why the guidebook author thought them worthy of so many “stars”.  All three fully bolted lines are located on the west face of Nameless Tower and are soft for the grade.  Naked Ape is a better climb than Peppermint Patty and is located in the center of the west face.  It is easily combined into one pitch if you skip some of the bolts and use slings.  It is over bolted.  The first pitch meanders up and right to a ledge and fixed rap.  The second pitch is steeper and runs back up and left to a fixed rap well below the summit.  Two single rope raps to the ground.  Dow

Peppermint Patty- 5.9**, 2 Pitches/ A contrived bolted line.  At the right end of the west face is a ramp leading to a broad low angled arete.  If there is a 5.9 move, we could not find it.  Locate two conspicuous bolts low down (5th class climbing).  Proceed to a short steep mantle, the crux of the pitch.  The route is over bolted.  Two rap stations, easy to combine the pitches on lead for the competent party.  Dow