|Chemnitzer Hütte||Rifugio Porro|
|Edelrauthütte||Rifugio Ponte di Ghiaccio|
|Eisbruggjoch||Passo Ponte di Ghiaccio|
|Großer Möseler||Gran Mesule|
|Hoher Weißzint||Punta Bianca|
|Kleiner Möseler||Mesule Piccolo|
|Mühlwalder Tal||Valle di Selva dei Molini|
|Neves Stausee||Lago di Neves|
|Neveser Höhenweg||Alta Via di Neves|
|Nevesjoch||Passo di Neves|
|Östliche Möselescharte||Forcella Orientale del Mesule|
|Östlicher Nevesferner||Vedretta di Neves Orientale|
|Pustertal||Val di Pusteria|
|Rieserferner Gruppe||Gruppo delle Vedrette di Ries|
|Turnerkamp||Cima di Campo|
|Westliche Möselescharte||Forcella Occientale del Mesule|
|Westlicher Nevesferner||Vedretta di Neves Occientale|
|Zillertaler Alpen||Alpi Aurine|
In addition to the glaciated peaks of the Zillertal Alps themselves, on a clear day you can easily see many of the glaciated peaks of the Stubai and Ötztal Alps and the Hohe Tauern, including Austria's highest summit, the Großglockner. And nearby to the southeast are the small Rieserferner Group, and to the south, just a bit further, are the great Dolomites.
Ridges and Faces
To the east, after about 400 m the ridge reaches the subsidiary summit of the Kleiner Möseler (3405m), and almost a kilometer from the main summit the Östlicher Möselescharte (3240m) ("Östlich" means eastern, a "Scharte" is a small saddle). Further to the east, the next significant mountain on the ridge is the Turnerkamp (3420m), about a kilometer and a half from the scharte.
Hoher Weißzint (3371m), and after that to the aforementioned Hochfeiler. The lowest point in between is the Nevessattel (3025m), between Möseler and Weißzint, giving the mountain a prominence of 455 m.
The international border is defined by the east and south ridges, and from the Möselekopf further by the southwest ridge.
Located completely in Italy, from the Möselekopf, the area between the south and southwest ridges hosts the small Westlicher Nevesferner ("Ferner", like "Kees", is a local German word for glacier). Also in Italy, the larger Östlicher Nevesferner covers a substantial part of the high area east by southeast of the mountain, on the south side of the east ridge, all the way to the Turnerkamp. However, the glacier doesn't cover part of the area east of the south ridge anymore.
The west and north ridges are both in Austria. More precisely, the west ridge is to the WNW and the north one soon turns to the NNW, leaving a steep NW face wedged between them. This face is covered by the Furtschaglkees, the much wider one between the west and south ridges by the Schlegeiskees. Finally, between the north and east ridges lies the big and crevassed Waxeggkees.
The first ascent was made by Fox, Freshfield, Tuckett, Devouassoud and Peter Michel in 1865 .
From AustriaSchlegeis Alpine Road. The last part of this is a toll road, and it is open only part of the year. Shortly before the toll barrier, at Gasthof Breitlahner (1356m), would be an alternative trailhead.
From the Schlegeissstausee, it's a couple of hours to the Furtschaglhaus, the recommended place to spend the night before the climb.
From Gasthof Breitlahner there are two options: To the Furtschaglhaus, hike to the Schlegeleisstaussee and onwards; alternatively hike up the Zemmgrund valley to the Berliner Hütte.
From ItalyThe nearest airport is still Innsbruck. The nearest train station is in Bruneck / Brunico, a small city in the Pustertal with a lively and scenic old center. Plenty of buses head north towards the Ahrntal and Mühlwalder Tal.
Normal Route (F)The approach starts at the Neves Stausee, usually via by the Chemnitzer Hütte and from there along the clearly signposted and popular Neveser Höhenweg.
When there is enough snow, it's possible to ski down from the summit directly to the Neveser Stausee. High up, the route stays close to the south ridge, lower down it follows the Ursprungbach.
Though the terrain is never truly steep, the steepest part is right before the saddle, where a short talus slope has to be climbed. After that, the route mostly follows the east ridge. Occasionally it is easier to stay a bit below the crest, on the south side. I simply followed the obvious traces where others had gone before. Real high up I actually found it easier to traverse the southeast face, and I ended up on the south ridge just shy of the summit. However, the rock is crumbly and rockfall can be a hazard if there are more people around, in which case following the ridge is safer than traversing below it.
While there is no need to cross any glacier, lingering snow high on the mountain can make crampons and ice axe useful, especially to get on the saddle.
The Neveser Höhenweg leads to the Edelrauthütte, and so the Großer Möseler can be climbed from there as well, but the approach takes two hours more than from the Chemnitzer Hütte.
Normal Route (PD+)The regularly climbed Austrian normal route starts at the Furtschlaglhaus and leads to the summit via the WNW ridge, the base of which is gained from the west by crossing the Schlegeiskees. Full glacier gear and roping up is strongly advisable.
Other RoutesThere are many other routes of varying difficulty. A harder, interesting route follows the steep northwest face, see the photo above.
Red TapeThe high mountains of the Zillertal Alps form a natural park, see Naturpark Zillertal and Zillertaler Alpen, but there are no fees and no special restrictions.
When to ClimbBest in summer for mountaineering, in spring for skiing.
- Furtschaglhaus, the usual starting point for the Austrian normal route.
- Berliner Hütte, suitable in particular for ski mountaineering.
- Edelrauthütte, also known as Eisbruchjochhütte.
- Chemnitzer Hütte, also known as Neveserjochhütte.
Books and Maps Alpenvereinsführer Zillertaler Alpen, , 12th edition 2013, Bergverlag Rother. ISBN 978-3-7633-1269-6.
There are many available maps for the area. The best one is the Alpenvereinskarte Zillertaler Alpen West, 1:25 000, but it does not cover much of the Italian side.
The various Italian maps that I saw (in 2014) were decent, but they all shared a common problem: they showed the old trajectory of the Neveser Höhenweg, which was destroyed by a landslide in 2010. The reconstructed trail is quite obvious though, so even without a map it's easy to follow. That said, the best Italian map is Tabacco map 36, Sand in Taufers / Campo Tures, 1:25 000.