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Zsigmondyspitze / Feldkopf
Mountain/Rock

Zsigmondyspitze / Feldkopf

 
Zsigmondyspitze / Feldkopf

Page Type: Mountain/Rock

Location: Tirol, Austria, Europe

Lat/Lon: 47.05001°N / 11.83571°E

Object Title: Zsigmondyspitze / Feldkopf

Activities: Mountaineering, Trad Climbing

Season: Spring, Summer, Fall

Elevation: 10128 ft / 3087 m

 

Page By: Michael Prittwitz

Created/Edited: Feb 26, 2006 / May 1, 2006

Object ID: 176305

Hits: 8201 

Page Score: 80.68%  - 13 Votes 

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Overview

Zsigmondyspitze/Feldkopf is a beautiful shaped steep summit over 3000 mtrs. in the center of Zillertal Alps. It is situated in Zillertaler Hauptkamm, there you'll find in Mörchenkamm. On the overview-page Zillertal Alps this mountain has the number 71, you find it on this handdrawn map.

Zsigmondyspitze is a mountain for climbers only, the easiest ascent is UIAA II+ (or III-). There are some nice climbs more difficult, therefore Zsigmondyspitze/Feldkopf is one of the most favored climbing-summits in the Zillertal Alps.
This mountain has two names. The older one is Feldkopf. Primarily it was considered unclimbable. 1878, on July 24, the wellknown brothers Emil and Otto Zsigmondy reached the summit for the first time. After the death of Emil Zsigmondy 1886 at the Meije/Dauphiné they called the summit in his honor Zsigmondyspitze.
The routes has good rock and are all worthwhile, although the summit is rather lonely, perhaps due to the long way to the mountain from each starting point.

Climbing Routes

For more information see the following excellent book (in German):
Zillertaler Alpen
Alpenvereinsführer
H. Klier, W. Klier
Rother Verlag
ISBN: 3-7633-1269-2.
This book is availablein the online-shop from Amazon.

  • Normal Route

    Normal route, rated II+ (some sources say III-)

    This is the route used in many cases. It's a really nice climb, sometimes a little bit aerial, good rock, a pleasure climb, when conditions are good.
    Details see in route description.
    F.A.: A. Böhm (descent 1880), A. Katzer , S. Kirchler (lower half, 1882), K. Diener, H. Stabeler (upper half, 1881)

  • South Ridge
    Rated V-, 200m length
    F.A.: H. Fiechtl, H. Hotter (1911)

    The uncommon alternative for good climbers


  • South-West Face
    Rated III+
    F.A.: L. Sager, W. Schmidkunz, H.v.Zallinger (1926)

    A interesting alternative to normal ascent too, it uses the direct line in the SW-face and crosses 2 times the normal route


  • New South-West Face
    Rated V+
    F.A.: W. Frankhauser, G. Hörhager, R. Kröll, A. Hörhager (1982)


  • South-West Ridge
    Rated V-/A0, 200m length
    A beautiful climb for good climbers ...
    F.A.: H. Fiechtl, M. Kröll (1911)

  • West Face
    Rated II
    F.A.: E. Zsigmondy, O. Zsigmondy (1879)

    The route of first ascent, today no longer used because of danger of rockfall


  • Lammergrat (NNW)
    Rated IV+
    F.A.: H. Pauksch, H. Fiechtl, G. Hauser (1909)

    A fantastic climb, very aerial, best rock quality, 2.30 hrs from beginning of climb.
    (Ginzling - Gunggltal - 100 m under Melkerscharte left in a couloir to the ridge. Until here 5-6 hrs!)

  • East-North-East Face
    Rated VI+/VII-
    F.A.: J. Kröll, H. Condin (1985)

    One of the most difficult routes in the Zillertal Alpes (Details see in the review "Berge" 3/2001 (text in German)

  • North-East Face
    Rated V
    F.A.: H. Fiechtl, H. Hotter (1910)


  • Feldkopfkante
    Rated V-
    F.A.: H. Fiechtl, H. Hotter (1911)

    A fantastic but long and difficult climb from Floitengrund directly to the summit (ca. 1000 m!)

  • Direct Route Feldkopfkante
    Rated V+
    F.A.: J. Kröll, H. Condin (1986)

Getting There

The climb commences 2.5hrs from Berliner Hütte on normal route, or 5 to 5.5hrs from parking lot at Breitlahner behind Ginzling (see map).
Alternatively you may hike through the long Floitengrund from Ginzling to Greizer Hütte (2227 m), ascend on Berliner Höhenweg to Mörchenscharte (2957 m) descend 500 m to Schwarzsee (2472 m) and finally ascend as described above.
However, the ascent is very, very long ...
If you want to conquer this mountain in only one day, you may start 1 km behind Ginzling (Rauth in about 1000 m), hike on path Nr. 522 to Melkerscharte (2814 m). 100 m below this gap you can ascend on your left to Sammerscharte and reach there the rewarding Lammergrat.
After passing the Melkerscharte you reach Feldscharte (2878 m) on the left, the normal route starting point. But also there, the route of advance is very long.

Red Tape

There are no Red Tapes in the region of Zillertal Alps.
However, please keep in mind that this zone of Alps is a natural preserve ("Ruhegebiet Zillertaler Hauptkamm") with some limitations.
Useful information on this preserve can be found under Naturpark Zillertal.

Camping/Accomodation

Camping is possible in camping areas in the valley, but forbidden in the mountains, because the region is a biological reserve.
In Ginzling and Mayerhofen there are many accomodations. A good advice is to stay in Berliner Hütte (2049 m), a really jewel amongst the Alpine huts. From there it takes only 2.5 hrs. to the beginning of the climb. Advantageously combine this climb with other routes to the magnificent summits in this region.
To ascend to Greizer Hütte (2227 m) from Ginzling is another possibility to reach Zsigmondyspitze.

External Links

Let me show some links to this rather lonley mountain.
The one I can recommend is the website of Günter Mitterer, a mountain guide in Finkenberg/Zillertal who led us the first time to the magnificent summits and glaciers of Zillertal Alps. On his site you will find lots of beautiful pictures and - if you want - possibilities of a professional guide in these mountains: www.bergsport-zillertal.at . The illustration of our adventures can be found there.
Information on Zillertal and its nature park are available also in English at this website.: www.zillertal.at.

Images