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Schrammacher
Mountain/Rock

Schrammacher

 
Schrammacher

Page Type: Mountain/Rock

Location: Zillertal, Austria, Europe

Lat/Lon: 47.02635°N / 11.64310°E

Object Title: Schrammacher

County: Tyrol

Activities: Mountaineering

Season: Spring, Summer

Elevation: 11191 ft / 3411 m

 

Page By: Silvia Mazzani

Created/Edited: Sep 5, 2016 / Sep 2, 2017

Object ID: 981713

Hits: 527 

Page Score: 87.76%  - 25 Votes 

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Overview

Geographical classification: Alps - Eastern part > Zillertal Alps > Schrammacher


Schrammacher 3411 m




Schrammacher 3411 m is a wild and superb pyramidal mountain, belonging to the Zillertal Alps range and situated nearby the Italian-Austrian boundary ridge, entirely on the Austrian side, between Sagwand to SW and Alpeiner Scharte to NE. Despite it inspires a bit of awe, Schrammacher is a sought after peak, showing three main ridges – South, SW and NE – which identify three main sides: the mighty SE side overlooking the wide Stampflkees Glacier, in strong retreat, the wild East side overlooking the Oberschrammachkees Glacier and the steep and severe NW side. This latter wall is extremely severe, showing a few challenging routes on mixed ground, very rarely frequented.


Schrammacher seen from Forcella NevosaSchrammacher seen from Forcella Nevosa-Schneescharte



On the contrary the Normal route starting from Passo di Vizze, on the Italian side, is a very good and fairly easy route, crossing at first the wide Stampflkees Glacier, in pronounced retreat, and successively following the South Ridge of the peak. This route is very often climbed in reason of its interest and the wide and superb views over the glacier and the surrounding mountains, both on the austrian and italian sides.

Olperer & SchrammacherSchrammacher (on the left) and Olperer seen from Gefrorene Wandspitzen - ph. Lodewijk


First ascent: J. Huber, G. Lechner and Peter Karl Thurwieser 19-8-1947 along the South Ridge

Getting There

Road Approach

The starting point to climb Schrammacher Normal route is Passo di Vizze – Pfitscher Joch 2251 m.

Getting to Val di Vizze

- From Brennero Motorway exit Vipiteno-Sterzing 947 m and take the road n. 508 entering Val di Vizze and reaching the villages of Prati-Wiesen, Caminata-Kematen, San Giacomo-St. Jacob and Sasso-Stein m. 1508, where the road becomes unpaved. The road rises quickly towards Passo di Vizze, but cars are allowed as far as the IV hairpin m. 1806. Parking.

Hinter Weisspitze and Vordere Weisspitze at sunset from Passo di VizzeHinter Weisspitze and Vordere Weisspitze at sunset from Passo di Vizze


Approach to Passo di Vizze – Pfitscher Joch m. 2251

The road from Sasso to Passo di Vizze is open to private vehicles as far as the IV hairpin along the road at the altitude of 1806 m. From here take a path to the North (signposts «Pfitscher Joch»), or alternatively carry on briefly along the road, then turn to left following the path n. 3. 1 hour and a half.
Otherwise a minibus service is available with frequent departures both from Sasso-Stein and Passo di Vizze.

Schrammacher South Ridge – Normal Route from Passo di Vizze

Schrammacher South Ridge – Normal Route from Passo di Vizze

Summit altitude: m 3411
Difficulty: Alpine F+
Vertical gain: 1160 m from Passo di Vizze m 2251
Exposure: South
Hut: Rifugio Passo di Vizze m 2275
Starting point: Passo di Vizze m 2251

Quite a worthwhile route inside a spectacular setting!


View from Schrammacher South RidgeSchrammacher South Ridge


From Rif. Passo di Vizze 2275 m descend briefly the dirt road reaching Passo di Vizze 2251 m in a few minutes. From the col, near a building and a small lake, turn to left taking the path to Rif. Europa, but after 20 meters, at the signpost, leave immediately the main path and head to right (AVS signpost “Schneescharte”) taking a good and well-worn path (stone-cairns), rising directly along a vegetated and stony slope.

Signpost at start of Schrammacher Normal route
Signposts at the start of Normal route
Tiny
Tiny lake near Schneescharte
Start of Stampflkees glacier
Start of Stampflkees glacier


In the higher part the path head to right passing across a stretch of granite boulders and getting Schneescharte-Forcella Nevosa 2789 , near the starting point of the glacier a tiny and characterized by a charming lake, that collects a portion of the melting waters of the glacier. From here it appears the Schrammacher South-East wall bordered on the right by the obvious ridge (South oriented) along which it’s running the Normal route.

Snow-waves on Stampflkees glacier
Snow-waves on Stampflkees glacier

Upper slopes over Stampflkees glacier
Upper slopes over Stampflkees glacier



After being tied, we start to cross the Stampflkees Glacier rightward, at first gently, then more steeply, reaching the middle of the glacier and getting the upper great basin.
From here we climb a steeper icy slope heading towards the wide and obvious saddle named Oberschrammachscharte, snowy in early season, located upstream the glacier along the baseline and flat starting part of the S ridge. The saddle is easily recognizable because it’s dominated by a rocky pinnacle. Once we get under the vertical of the saddle, we don’t climb directly to it, rather we continue briefly to cross the glacier to the left to reach the bottom of a steep snowy cone.

The ice-slope leading to Schrammacher S ridge
The ice-slope leading to the ridge

Climbing Schrammacher S ridge
Climbing on Schrammacher S ridge



After crossing the bergschrund, sometimes open and a bit difficult, especially in late summer, we climb the icy slope, about 80 meters long, and we set foot on the ridge, snowy in spring or early summer, entirely rocky in middle and late summer.

Flat section along Schrammacher S ridge
Flat section along South ridge

Below the crux - Schrammacher S ridge
South Ridge, below the crux



Now we turn to left and start to climb the ridge, mainly keeping ourselves on the edge, but occasionally moving now to the right, most exposed, now to the left of the wire to seek the better steps. Beyond a flat brief section we reach the base of the upper steeper step (crux, safety sling in place). Passed this short step, we reach the wonderful summit (summit cross and summit book). Unforgettable views!

Schrammacher summit cross
Schrammacher summit cross
Rifugio Passo di Vizze seen from the pass
Small lake on Passo di Vizze
Schrammacher summit view towards Schlegeis-Stausee lake
Summit view towards Schlegeis-Stausee lake>


Descent: reversing the same route

Essential gear

Rope, slings, some carabiners and full glacier gear

Other routes

North-East Ridge
NW Pillar
NW wall - Route Draschfure
NW wall - Route Baumgartner

Red Tape

 
Bryoides Saxifrage (Sassifraga Zolfina) - Schrammacher approach
Saxifraga Bryoides, Zillertal


No fees no permits needed. The peak is located within the Zillertal Alps Natural Park, a wild and preserved environment.

Hut

- Rifugio Passo di Vizze m 2276


Passo di Vizze - Pfitscher Joch hut
Rifugio Passo di Vizze - Pfitscher Joch Hut
Rifugio Passo Vizze
Rifugio Passo di Vizze
Dawn from Passo di Vizze
Dawn from Passo di Vizze

When to Climb

Mountaineering: from middle June to the end of September

Ski-mountaineering: from March to May

Meteo

Meteo Provincia Bolzano

Meteo Tirol

Guidebooks and maps

Schrammacher map




Guidebooks

“Alpi Aurine” by F. Cammelli – W. Beikircher Guida dei Monti d’Italia CAI

Maps

"Zillertaler Alpen - Tuxer Alpen" - Kompass 1:50.000

Images

Hinter Weisspitze and Vordere Weisspitze at sunset from Passo di VizzeBelow the crux - Schrammacher S ridgeView from Schrammacher South RidgeClimbing Schrammacher S ridgeSchrammacher summit view towards Schlegeis-Stausee lakePasso di Vizze - Pfitscher Joch hutFlat section along Schrammacher S ridge
Olperer & SchrammacherStart of Stampflkees glacierSchrammacherSnow-waves on Stampflkees glacierCroda Rossa at sunsetRifugio Passo di Vizze seen from the passBryoides Saxifrage (Sassifraga Zolfina) - Schrammacher approach
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