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Schwarzenstein / Sasso Nero
Mountain/Rock

Schwarzenstein / Sasso Nero

 
Schwarzenstein / Sasso Nero

Page Type: Mountain/Rock

Location: Tirol, Austria, Europe

Lat/Lon: 47.01020°N / 11.87390°E

Object Title: Schwarzenstein / Sasso Nero

Elevation: 11049 ft / 3368 m

 

Page By: tuan walter

Created/Edited: May 18, 2004 / Mar 26, 2013

Object ID: 152635

Hits: 8651 

Page Score: 85.86%  - 22 Votes 

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Overview

Schwarzenstein / Sasso Nero, situated on the border between Austria and Italy, is one of the highest mountains in the main range of the Zillertal Alps. It lies between Turnerkamp (south-west) and Grosser Loeffler (north-east) and offers great views, eg of Grosser Moeseler, Turnerkamp and Grosser Loeffler.

Summer Route North Side (From The Berliner Huette)

The starting point is the Berliner Huette (2,044 m). Follow the signposted trail leading up east.. After half an hour turn right (south) at the signpost. saying "Schwarzenstein". It's another hour to the lower end of the Schwarzensteinkees ("Kees" = glacier). Ascend straight up the glacier to the ridge. It's not difficult, and not dangerous. To my knowledge, there are no crevasses in this part of the glacier. At the ridge, turn right (west) and follow the rather flat "ridge", still on the glacier. The final ascent to the summit is over rocks. It is easy.
The ascent from the Berliner Huette to the top takes 4.5 hours. The difference in altitude is 1,324 m.

Getting There (Berliner Huette)

By car: Innsbruck - motorway A 12 - exit Zillertal - Mayrhofen - Zemmgrund - Ginzling - Gasthof Breitlahner (1,257 m) - car park (parking fee)

Walk to the Berliner Huette (2.5 hours, difference in altitude 787 m).

Summer Route South Side (From The Schwarzensteinhuette / Rifugio Vittorio Veneto)

The ascent from the Schwarzensteinhuette / Rifugio Vittorio Veneto to the top takes 1.5 hours. The difference in altitude is 446 m.

Getting There (Schwarzensteinhuette / Rifugio Vittorio Veneto)

By car: Bruneck / Brunico - Tauferer Tal / Valle di Tures - Ahrntal / Valle Aurina - St. Johann in Ahrn / S. Giovanni - Stalliler / Stallila (1,470 m), where you can park your car

Starting from the Stalliler / Stallila, follow the signposted trail up the Rotbachtal. In the upper section of the route, there are two ways: you can follow the normal route, which leads up to the hut over the Rotbachkees ("Kees" = glacier), or rather over what is left of it. Nowadays the glacier is little more than a few patches of snow. As an alternative, you can climb on a "via ferrata“ (= "iron way"). The ascent to the Schwarzensteinhuette / Rifugio Vittorio Veneto takes 4 hours. The difference in altitude is 1,452 m.

Via ferrata "Kamin":
Lupino describes the route as follows:
Starting from the Stalliler / Stallila, an old and authentic "alm" where you can enjoy genuine South Tyrolese food, follow the trail to Daimeralm / Malga Daimer (1,872 m). Then the path steepens as it leads up to the moraine. A wonderful and refreshing well is encountered at about 2,300 m. Stop there - you will be happy!
At about 2,500 m the path reaches the base of the Rotbachkees. When you get to the Stabeler Höhenweg (coming from the Chemnitzer Huette / Rifugio Giovanni Porro, about 5 hours), turn right and follow the sign “Kamin”, as the "ferrata" is named referring to its most interesting section. At about 2,700 m the “ferrata” begins, recently rebuilt and now without any serious risk (no stones and very good wire rope). After 150 meters of "ferrata" and 20 minutes more over blocks of stone you will arrive at the Schwarzensteinhuette / Rifugio Vittorio Veneto.

Ski Route South Side (From The Schwarzensteinhuette / Rifugio Vittorio Veneto)

The Schwarzensteinhuette / Rifugio Vittorio Veneto is open in March and April.
The ascent from the hut to the summit is fairly straightforward. It takes 1.5 hours. The difference in altitude is 446 m.

Getting There (Schwarzensteinhuette / Rifugio Vittorio Veneto - Ski Routes)

By car: Bruneck / Brunico - Tauferer Tal / Valle di Tures - Ahrntal / Valle Aurina - St. Johann in Ahrn / S. Giovanni - then, depending on the route you are going to take (see below), either to Tribbach (1,260 m), where you can park your car, or to the Stalliler (1,470 m), where you can also park your car

The normal ski route up to the Schwarzensteinhuette / Rifugio Vittorio Veneto leads through the Tribbachtal, the valley to the east of the Rotbachtal.
The ascent from Tribbach to the Schwarzensteinhuette / Rifugio Vittorio Veneto takes 4.5 hours. The difference in altitude is 1,662 m.

You can also ascend through the Rotbachtal, following more or less the summer route. The ascent from the Stalleler to the Schwarzensteinhuette / Rifugio Vittorio Veneto takes 4 hours. The difference in altitude is 1,452 m.

Accommodation

Berliner Huette (2,044 m)

The Schwarzensteinhuette / Rifugio Vittorio Veneto, at 2,922 m, is the highest hut in the Zillertal Alps.

Schwarzensteinhuette / Rifugio Vittorio Veneto (2,922 m)

When To Climb

July - September; March, April

Mountain Conditions

Weather

Current avalanche conditions

External Links

Additions and Corrections

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LupinoUntitled Comment

Lupino

Voted 10/10

The ascent is not difficult (exciting experience also for children trained). Some problems could occur in case of fog and clouds when you are on the glacier. The glacier (quite flat) is reached after about 45 minutes from the refuge. No crevasses are along the route if you follow, as it is foreseen, the ridge up to the summit. Crampons may be required in early morning in advanced summer season; take with you iceax and rope. The view to the austrian side of the glacier is interesting and from the top of the Schwarzenstein you are able to recognize the summits of many Dolomites.





p.s. Please, look at my English and, if needed, it should be better correct the text !
Posted Sep 5, 2004 10:04 am

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