The Hübschhorn is the marked mountain looming above the Simplon pass. The mountain has two summits, the W-summit (3187 m) with a cairn, and the E-summit (3192 m) with a cross. These summits are connected by a ridge with unstable boulders (15-30 minutes oneway). The mountain has steep rock faces to the NW, N and E, whereas long scree and boulder slopes dominate the SW and S. The mountain consists mainly of metamorphic rock, which provides excellent climbing in grade II to IV on the N side. Especially the Platten von Ofeflue, grade II-III, on the NW face is very interesting. The normal route uses the WSW-ridge, a little S of the Platten von Ofeflue and brings no difficulties, but is somewhat long an strenuous due to the enormous amount of unstable scree and boulders. Other interesting routes are on the NW ridge (Albert-I-grat in grade IV) and the E ridge (grade II and III).
The best base for climbing this mountain is for most routes the Simplon Hospiz (1997 m). This is an historical hostel, built to the order of Napoleon (1811), and now run by members of the Augustine order. The building has been extended several times to form the large building that it is now. It now accommodates 130 people, and is opened all year round. See for further information and reservations:
http://www.gsbernard.ch/simplon.htm. Full address: Hospice du Simplon CH 3907 Simplon Dorf, phone: ++41 27 979 13 22, fax : ++41 27 979 14 79, email:[email protected]
Brig 1289 1:25 000, Simplon 1309 1:25 000
Visp 274 1:50 000
Michael Waeber, Walliser Alpen. DAV-Gebietsführer. 12th ed. München, 1999.
Brig is the nearest large town in Switzerland, with railway connections to Geneva and Basel (both with international airports). The Simplon Hospiz can be reached from Brig by car or by postbus. By car follow the E62 from Brig to Simplonpass. The Hospiz is situated about 500 m south of the Simplonpass. Post buses are operated on the line Brig-Iselle. Iselle is a village in Italy and can also be reached by train from either Brig (via the Simplon tunnel) or Domodossola (with further connections to Milano).
See for bus and train connections the CFF website:http://www.cff.ch/
No permits required; no summit fees.
When To Climb
In winter it is an interesting mountain for ski-mountaineering. Summer climbs are best from the middle of June to the end of September.
There are camp sites in Brig, Simplon, and Domodossola.
Mountain Conditions and further information