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Lobhörner
Mountain/Rock

Lobhörner

 
Lobhörner

Page Type: Mountain/Rock

Location: Berner Oberland, Switzerland, Europe

Lat/Lon: 46.60246°N / 7.84437°E

Object Title: Lobhörner

Activities: Trad Climbing

Elevation: 8418 ft / 2566 m

 

Page By: Fred Spicker, Moni

Created/Edited: Apr 22, 2004 / Oct 5, 2010

Object ID: 152555

Hits: 7988 

Page Score: 83.1%  - 16 Votes 

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The Lobhörner from the north.
From the north.

 
Lobhörner 2566m
From the NW

Overview

 
Lobhörner 2566m
From the east

The Lobhörner are an interesting group of 5 limestone towers located above Lauterbrunnen in the low range of peaks north of the main range of the Berner Oberland. The highest of the five towers is the Gross Lobhorn at 2566 m.

Though each of the towers was first climbed individually, the classic most often done climb is an east to west traverse of all five towers. Done in this direction, the traverse is mostly III and IV- with several places of IV. Done in the west to east direction, there are pitches of V+. Escape from the route can easily be accomplished with rappels to the south at many places.

The area is most popular in the spring before the high Alps are free of snow. The views from the Lobhörner to the high peaks of the Berner Oberland, especially the Eiger, Mönch & Jungfrau, are exceptional.

The climb can be accomplished in a long day from the valley, or more leisurely from the hut.

Getting There

 
Not only the peaks...
Outcrops on approach

The Lobhörner are most commonly accessed from the village of Isenfluh via the lift to Sulwald. From Sulwald it is about 1.5 to 2 hours to either the Lobhorn Hut or the Lobhörner. Along the way, there are great views of the unique geology of the region.

To reach Isenfluh, either drive or take the train to Lauterbrunnen. From Lauterbrunnen, a bus goes to Isenfluh or one can drive. There is parking at the base of the tram.

The hut and towers can also be accessed from Lauterbrunnen via the lift to Grütschalp and about a 2.5 hour hike.

Routes Overview

Topo -(pdf format) Lobhörner Topo

East - West Traverse, IV (4c, 4b obligatory), 3 to 4 hours. The route starts at the eastern base of the first tower and traverses over each tower with several variations possible. Rappels are required from the top of the Zipfelmütze (third tower) and for the normal descent of the Gross Lobhorn. The traverse can be done in the opposite direction and requires pitches of V+ to climb the rappel route.

Herbstzyt East - West Traverse, V+ (5c+, 5b obligatory). A rather contrived looking route taking each tower the hard way and apparently requiring a return all the way to the base of tower 4 to complete.

South Face of Gross Lobhorn, V+ (5c+ obligatory). Five very difficult pitches directly up the south face of the main tower.
 
The first tower of the...
E Tower / climbers visible
Enlarge for detail
 
Leading the second pitch on...
Pitch 2 / E Tower
 
The Zipfelmütze (third tower)...
W side Tower 3
 
Lobhörner, Gross Lobhorn
Last pitch Gross Lobhorn

Hut

The Suls Lobhornhütte is ideally located for a climb of the Lobhörner. And, the views of the Berner Oberland from the hut are fantastic.

Because there is sport climbing near here as well, this hut is very crowded during the summer. There are tents set up for the overflow. It is advised you make reservations and go during the week if possible.


When to Climb

These peaks sit substancially lower than the surrounding mountains of the Berner Oberland. As such, they are doable sooner and later, when snow still impedes the very high routes. This area is popular for spring ski touring. As long as the rock in reasonably dry, one climb here most any time.

Valley Accommodations

If traveling from afar, camping, hotels and hostels can be found in Lauterbrunnen, Interlaken and Grindelwald. This area is immensely popular throughout the year and making reservations well in advance is advised.

Images